Leather For Pads And Noice Question

[astrotina]

I'm about to order pads for my Lachenal 48 english and am wondering what surface is better for the contact between the leather and the pad board.

 

Some suppliers have a choice of both smooth and rough sided pads. The existing pads have the "rough" side in contact with the hole. However I do not know if they are the original pads. They measure about 2-3mm thick and are made from card, white felt that is not woven, and a whitish leather. I'm inclined to order the rough sided pads because that's what I find but some of the discussions in the archive lead me to wonder if that choice will be the right one with respect to noisy pads.

 

I've read a bit about Lachenals being noisy but that seems to be related to the absence of bushings to keep the bone keys from tapping against the holes. The other thing is the staple and wire action seems to be noisy as opposed to the Wheatstone riveted action. I've also been reading about pads and valves slapping as they close, perhaps more to do with age of the leather than anything else.

 

Still it's a good question: which side of the leather to use for pads? If this has been discussed already could you please point me to the appropriate posting.

 

Thanks,

 

Ed

 

PS; Sorry about the typo in the title. I meant to write "Noise" instead of Noice

Edited February 6, 2008 by astrotina

[Greg Jowaisas]

Ed,

When I make pads I prefer to use the smooth side for seating. That is, glue the rough side to the felt. All pads take a little time to break in and form an airtight seal.

 

You might also note the thickness of the old pads and, if the button height suits you, try and match the new pads' thickness to the old. If the buttons seem high with the old pads then make the new pads thicker and the button height will be reduced.

 

Manipulating the button height by using the pad thickness also helps keep the buttons at a uniform height. Adjustment by bending the action arms is sometimes necessary but it is tedious and carries a chance of breaking the action arm or guide pin.

 

If you are inclined to make your own pads several of the organ suppliers carry pnuematic or allum tanned leather which makes good pad leather. A permanent spray adhesive is good for joining surfaces of leather, felt and card. I make up 20"X20" pad sandwiches; compress with weights; punch to desired diameter when dry.

 

Use a thin "samper" (leather circle) in the center of the pad's card to glue the pad to the leather arm grommett. This will allow the pad enough flex to seat itself.

 

Good luck.

 

Greg