Jump to content

New Addition To 2004 Tedrow Line


Recommended Posts

The fretwork on this and all my instruments is cut by hand on a scroll saw and not by a laser.

 

I agree Ted, its a beautiful bit of work.

 

I can understand that you are proud of having produced it with scroll saw, but, to me at least, if it were cut by laser, it would not be a problem.

 

Have you ever considered going to laser? The first off would probably be more expensive than a scroll saw, due to the CAD work etc, but subsequent ones would be knocked out in a few minutes, more accurate, and much more cheaply. Think of those hours saved which you use to start the next instrument, or even take some time off to drink beer!!

 

After all I'm sure that Jeffries, Crabb, Wheatstone et al would have used laser technology if it had been available.

 

 

Clive

Edited by Clive Thorne
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There was a Tedrow on Ebay a while back packaged with two other instruments. The ends were mahogony and one end had split. Is this a generic problem with mahogony? You often see old mahogony Lachenals with this problem. Or was this a very early model and it was just a storage or design issue. I believe this can also be an issue with ebony ends (see Chris Algar's Wheatstone on EBay today).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My experience is that solid mahogany, rosewood, and ebony can experience cracking, often severe. (Undoubtedly other woods, too, though with varying sensitivity.) But it doesn't always happen. I'm pretty sure that excessive dryness can increase the likelihood, and probably a protective finish (varnish, maybe oil?) can add protection (though varnish only on the visible side may not help much if the "back" side is unfinished and allowed to dry out).

 

The S.C. Taylor instrument I've reported on has solid rosewood ends which are mostly intact, but there is a small section missing from the left-hand fretwork, which looks to be the consequence of splitting. My pinhole Æola, on the other hand, has solid ebony ends with no splitting at all, though many others like it are reported to have severe splitting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There was a Tedrow on Ebay a while back packaged with two other instruments. The ends were mahogony and one end had split. Is this a generic problem with mahogony?

 

Mo Turcotte bought that one. He sent it to me and I repaired and refinished it. I have not had any other mahogany tops split (knock on wood) I do use a 3/16" piece of mahogany stock for the tops. Most tops are about 1/8" I believe.

 

Have you ever considered going to laser? The first off would probably be more expensive than a scroll saw, due to the CAD work etc, but subsequent ones would be knocked out in a few minutes, more accurate, and much more cheaply

 

Well, that just would not be the Cowboy Way now would it?

 

 

Bob Tedrow

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you ever considered going to laser? The first off would probably be more expensive than a scroll saw, due to the CAD work etc, but subsequent ones would be knocked out in a few minutes, more accurate, and much more cheaply

 

Well, that just would not be the Cowboy Way now would it?

 

 

Well, I can't argue with that!!

 

Happy Fretting,

 

Clive

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those 3/32 cap screws are expensive and a good idea.

 

One cannot use the wrong size screwdriver and accidentally scratch the top as is evident in almost all older concertinas.

 

 

Don't you think it gives the ends a nice sturdy boiler plate visage?

 

 

I would replace them with 4/40 x1.5" filstrom or cheesehead screws if I could find them here in the US.

 

So far I cannot locate a supplier.

 

 

Bob

Edited by Bob Tedrow
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would replace them with 4/40 x1.5" filstrom or cheesehead screws if I could find them here in the US. 

 

 

Bob,

 

I must admit that I thought the allen screw looked a bit out of place, although I fully agree with your practical reasons for going with it. I also would use allen screws if I were to build one - sigh.

 

What about a button head allen screw (in stainless steel?). It would still have the advantages you mention, but would look a bit neater.

 

 

Looking at a fairly standard engineers catalogue here (UK) you can get M3 x 20mm stainless button heads, so I would have thought you'd be able to get get longer ones from a specialist supplier. M2.5 would be closer to the 3/16".

 

Wouldn't the 'Cowboy Way' be to make your own screws? ;)

 

 

Clive.

 

PS - what's a filstrom?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would replace them with 4/40 x1.5" filstrom or cheesehead screws if I could find them here in the US.

So far I cannot locate a supplier.

Since last summer we've changed our roundhead endbolts over to brass fillister head #4-40 x 1.25" which we get (or *got* should I say as the minimum required, will keep us in bolts for the next decade) from http://www.boltswashersscrews.com/

 

I know what you mean by having difficulty finding these. It took us such a long time to find a supplier!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here in Canada we have Robertson screws that basically have square holes for square ended screwdrivers. These would be ideal for concertina bolts as they can't slip and are very tidy. The trouble is, they've only caught on in Canada.

 

Of course, getting the right kind of bolt with this head would probably be impossible.

 

Rich, Dougie Creighton can tell you all about them!

Edited by Paul Read
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since last summer we've changed our roundhead endbolts over to brass fillister head #4-40 x 1.25" which we get (or *got* should I say as the minimum required, will keep us in bolts for the next decade) from http://www.boltswashersscrews.com/

 

I know what you mean by having difficulty finding these. It took us such a long time to find a supplier!

 

Ah, thanks Rich.

 

Clive.

 

PS - what's a filstrom?

 

Well, I guess it's nothing. I mean fillister.

 

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...