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Jeffries Ends


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I am having work done on my Jeffries 38 button concertina at the moment including the new bellows.

 

As these instruments are well over 100 years old now and has wear, Richard Evans has suggested that I get the ends replated. I think that this would make it look and feel a lot better. The only thing that bothers me is that it has the old C Jeffries Maker engraved in the end and it is likely to disapear under the new replating if I go ahead.

 

What would be others opinion on this. Would you think that it would affect the value if the engraving was no longer visable?

 

I still intend to sell it once it is finished.

 

Scott Fineran

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I think that it could affect the value, possibly by thousands of dollars. I wouldn't do it.

 

I am having work done on my Jeffries 38 button concertina at the moment including the new bellows.

 

As these instruments are well over 100 years old now and has wear, Richard Evans has suggested that I get the ends replated. I think that this would make it look and feel a lot better. The only thing that bothers me is that it has the old C Jeffries Maker engraved in the end and it is likely to disapear under the new replating if I go ahead.

 

What would be others opinion on this. Would you think that it would affect the value if the engraving was no longer visable?

 

I still intend to sell it once it is finished.

 

Scott Fineran

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I enquired into this specific issue and was informed by the platers that this would be no problem as the plating is only a few microns thick, unlike paint, and the detail would definitely not be lost. However, my enquiries revealed, as other more experienced members know already, there are platers, and platers, and getting the right finish - probably what is known I believe as dull nickel, is not something all platers can do. Also getting them to understand the value of the piece and treating it with respect may be difficult with some platers. I'm sure some of the experienced members here will have recommendations. After weighing up the issue for some time, I decided not to have the work done on my Wheatstone, the finish, after some simple cleaning and gentle polishing ended up looking very good indeed and much more in keeping with the age of the instrument. I guess the debate goes on regarding the patina of age, and whether such restoration adds or detracts from appearance / value.

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Hello,

 

I had as well the ends of my concertina recently replated and I am glad I´ve done that.

I took it to the C.Connection when it was still in the Netherlands and as mentioned before

I would only take it to someone who knows exactly what he´s doing - like a bit of a polish

before and after as well as the right bath. Taking it simply to a jewlery to have it done

might not be what you want.

 

post-163-1209635393.jpg

 

Christian

Edited by Christian Husmann
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I recently sold a 38 button Jeffries to a friend of mine. The ends needed some care, but I thought a good polish would be/look better than replate. And that's what this friend of mine will do.

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What kind of polish do you recommend?

 

Scott,

 

You mention getting your Jeffries "replated", but are you sure it was plated in the first place? I ask because they usually weren't (except some of the later instruments, with the Praed Street stamp) and look much better simply polished... :unsure:

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Thanks! If parts of the ends are turning a little green, is it ok to polish right over that or should something else be done first?

 

What kind of polish do you recommend?

Brasso.jpg

 

Seems it's good for iPods too... :unsure:

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I'm with Stephen on this, except that Brasso is not available in Oz as a wadding polish afaik, only as a messy liquid.

 

May I suggest BriteShine (available from CheapaAuto stores), or NevrDull (from Antique restorers' suppliers at exorbitant cost).

 

Suggest you remove the bushing boards from the ends before polishing, or alternatively, be prepared to replace the button bushings.

 

post-121-1209866822_thumb.jpg

 

MC

 

Edited to add that NevrDull is made in USA, so Daniel, you should be able to access it there. BriteShine is made in Oz, and is often referred to in the motor trade with certain letters reversed.... :o

Edited by malcolm clapp
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Polishing is ok if you have enough metal left and do it very infrequently. The back corners of mine are down to a razor sharp edge where the hand/wrist rests so I consider polish off limits. Soapy water or IPA shifts the green gung fairly well.

 

Im still considering gold plating but finding the right person to do it is the big issue. I have more time to research it now as my nickel allergy tests were negative.

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As far as I know plating always involves a serious polish, Mike, and I doubt many platers would do it without, they'd be expecting the customer to blame them when it wasn't a perfect finish, as is the way of people...

 

So if your ends are so worn that you don't dare give them a hand polish I'd forget the gold.

 

(I've just noticed that 'Duraglit', which I always went for if I couldn't put off polishing something any longer, is evolving into that inferior product 'Brasso'. It's a harsh world, the metal polish industry, clearly)

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:unsure: Hi, I hope this isn't too far off the topic, but I too have a Jeffries with metal ends but mine shows a different colour left and right! Whilst the right side is the usual silvery plate, the left hand side is quite a pronounced golden hue! I don't want to re-plate, but wondered what the golden colour could be - is it brass??? or nickel??? that became revealed as the top silver came off through time/use? Is it surface tarnish? Like others here, I don't want to mess my instrument up with sloppy or inappropriate attempts at cleaning/restoring as its superb in other respects. Help! :(
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Another metal polish, beloved of my aged and respected father and other antique motorcycle enthusiasts, is Simichrome (Google will return several sites that sell it). I haven't used it myself, but I've seen it used, and it's quite effective (also on hard plastics, not that that's relevant here...)

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