Reparing Old Case

[Marien]

I am repairing an old hexagon wooden Lachenal case.

It is black from the outside, looks like very thin paper.

On the inside it has a Bordeaux coloured paper.

 

What would be recommended?

Is there a kind of paper for sale that I could use as replacement,

or would you simply paint it black no the outside and glue some

protective cotton fabric fom a T/shirt inside?

 

Thanks in advance for any hint.

[Theo]

I am repairing an old hexagon wooden Lachenal case.

.... What would be recommended?....

 

 

As with the bellows question, I would buy a new case. The old one could be used on the workbench for storing screwdrivers.

[Marien]

That is a good idea, use it for screw drivers.

But what if the owner wants it to be restored?

Thanks,

Marien

[P Carr]

"I would buy a new case"

 

Is it possible to buy new cases to fit 48 key Lachenal EC's? That would actually fit them? I have a soft gig bag for mine, but have been looking for a hard case that would be more protective - information, please, if you have some?

[Pete Dunk]

Both the Music Room (currently out of stock) and Hobgoblin sell a 'standard' concertina case designed to accommodate an average treble English or 20/30 button anglo. They are square inside though, not blocked out, and so need a bit of padding stuffed in for a tight fit. An American company produces the Storm case at a very fair price for what you get and you can cut the foam to fit your concertina perfectly. T'ain't pretty though!

 

Other folk produce 'bespoke' cases but they cost a little more.

[Theo]

That is a good idea, use it for screw drivers.

But what if the owner wants it to be restored?

Thanks,

Marien

 

Advise the owner that the old case is not good protection for the concertina and ask them if they need a screwdriver stand.

[P Carr]

Both the Music Room (currently out of stock) and Hobgoblin sell a 'standard' concertina case designed to accommodate an average treble English or 20/30 button anglo. They are square inside though, not blocked out, and so need a bit of padding stuffed in for a tight fit.

 

Thanks for replying. I had emailed hobgoblin about their standard concertina cases - and they answered that they would work for a Lachenal but needed padding out, as you've said. But, that might be the best solution if no better fitting case is easily available in the UK.

 

Thanks,

Pamela

[McIsog]

Marien,

 

If I was going to repair one of those cases here would be my list of chores:

 

1) Remove the old paper.

 

2) Move the handle from the top of the box to one of the sides. I think the tinas want to be stored in their normal playing orientation.

 

3) Make sure that all screws, nuts, bolts, staples are recessed or removed from the interior walls of the case.

 

4) Make sure it is tight. Re apply glue to any sides that are coming apart. These are old. Glue dries out and may need to be re done.

 

5) Find a thin nylon based velvet type cloth to line the case with. Use a spray adhesive in thin doses to attach the cloth.

 

6) Make sure your hinges and latch work well and are not falling apart. Replace them with new bits if necessary.

 

The biggest problem I have seen with old wooden and leather cases is screws, nuts, poorly repaired hinges and rivets in the path of the concertina as it slides in and out of the case causing damage to the veneer or edges of the action box sides.

 

Have fun.

 

Dan

[Marien]

Hello Dan,

 

Thanks for the list. It helps.

 

Usually I would agree with Theo, it is nice to put screw drivers in. Although this one needs some treatment and it is old, it is complete with hinges and latch work. It still has a working lock and key, which makes this concertina complete as a (140 years old) antique collectors item in original shape. I agree that there are better cases to store it in, and to put the strap to the side for carrying it horizontally would be good for carrying it from session to session. But this one will not be used for that. The purpose is more the one of a museum piece (Besides, for sessions I would prefer to take a 28 or more buttons concertina in stead of this 20 buttons anglo).

 

The original paper work has been glued with bone or hide glue. I think I am not going to preserve that kind of organic (smelly) glue, but I could use arabic gum if that works out well. On the outside I could use black silk paper and on the inside I am still sticking to a kind of paper that comes the closest to the original.

 

Thanks again

Marien

 

 

Marien,

 

If I was going to repair one of those cases here would be my list of chores:

 

1) Remove the old paper.

 

2) Move the handle from the top of the box to one of the sides. I think the tinas want to be stored in their normal playing orientation.

 

3) Make sure that all screws, nuts, bolts, staples are recessed or removed from the interior walls of the case.

 

4) Make sure it is tight. Re apply glue to any sides that are coming apart. These are old. Glue dries out and may need to be re done.

 

5) Find a thin nylon based velvet type cloth to line the case with. Use a spray adhesive in thin doses to attach the cloth.

 

6) Make sure your hinges and latch work well and are not falling apart. Replace them with new bits if necessary.

 

The biggest problem I have seen with old wooden and leather cases is screws, nuts, poorly repaired hinges and rivets in the path of the concertina as it slides in and out of the case causing damage to the veneer or edges of the action box sides.

 

Have fun.

 

Dan

[john T]

Black wooden concertina cases were often japanned or Shellaced.

Japanning is a resin-based varnish similar to Shellac.

Unfortunately, all resin-based varnishes, like those used on violins etc, harden with age as the resin dries, so it becomes brittle, crazes, and is easily chipped.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanning

You could make up your own japanning varnish, but it would be very time consuming.

There are some commercial japanning varnishes available.

All resin/gum-based varnishes are slow drying. Very slow drying.

 

Glues used on these boxes are most likely to be hoof or rabbit skin glue. Rabbit skin glue was preferred glue for string instrument makers, since it is a very strong & 'fine' glue, but you need a glue kettle to soften it (like a porringer).

If you wrap the case in a damp towel & leave it for a day or so, the paper should come off easily. The paper often had a varnish coat over it to seal it from the damp.

 

I once restored a serpent which was assembled using hoof or skin glue, and the only way to remove all the leather scales & separate beech segments was by putting it in a bath of cold water for a couple of days. The scales had been varnished over for protection. There was no warping.

 

Kind regards - John Timpany

[Theo]

Glues used on these boxes are most likely to be hoof or rabbit skin glue. Rabbit skin glue was preferred glue for string instrument makers, since it is a very strong & 'fine' glue, but you need a glue kettle to soften it (like a porringer).

 

One of these makes a fine glue kettle. Just replace the bottle with a jam jar.

 

Edited May 7, 2008 by Theo