Valves

[Pete Dunk]

A while ago I bought a 1916 model 2 Wheatstone 48 key treble - rosewood ends, nickel buttons, brass reeds. I was quite surprised to find that all 96 reeds were valved, and they all looked original or at least quite old. I thought it might have been re-valved by an inexperienced repairer who didn't realise that the top few notes on each side aren't usually valved at all (as I understand it).

 

Recently I came across a mid range Lachenal 48 key treble - rosewood ends with metal inlays, nickel buttons, 5 fold bellows. Quite a nice looking thing but needs a fair bit of attention to get it back into playing condition. Again it has valves fitted to all 96 reeds. Did I misunderstand the description I read somewhere that said that the higher reeds in a treble (a few on each side) weren't fitted with valves at all, or have I found two fairly good quality instruments that have suffered at the hands of inexpert repairers?

[Chris Ghent]

A while ago I bought a 1916 model 2 Wheatstone 48 key treble - rosewood ends, nickel buttons, brass reeds. I was quite surprised to find that all 96 reeds were valved, and they all looked original or at least quite old. I thought it might have been re-valved by an inexperienced repairer who didn't realise that the top few notes on each side aren't usually valved at all (as I understand it).

 

Recently I came across a mid range Lachenal 48 key treble - rosewood ends with metal inlays, nickel buttons, 5 fold bellows. Quite a nice looking thing but needs a fair bit of attention to get it back into playing condition. Again it has valves fitted to all 96 reeds. Did I misunderstand the description I read somewhere that said that the higher reeds in a treble (a few on each side) weren't fitted with valves at all, or have I found two fairly good quality instruments that have suffered at the hands of inexpert repairers?

 

It is more a case of "very high reeds do not need valves", than "very high reeds should not have valves". A good approach from here would be to say, how well do they work?

 

Chris

[Henrik Müller]

There must be an upper limit, where it no longer makes sense to use valves,

since the backward air flow through the reed is too low to make the valve

work, or work badly?

 

/Henrik

[d.elliott]

It is more a case of "very high reeds do not need valves", than "very high reeds should not have valves". A good approach from here would be to say, how well do they work?

 

Chris

 

 

Not strictly true, its more a case of "very high reeds MAY not need valves".

 

There are a number of variables that come into play:

Reed edge/tip fitting clearances; reed set; reed material strength etc. Even the variation in different comparative valve flexibilities can effect the perfomance of the valves when/if it is fitted.

 

Two key questions:

 

1: does the fitting of the valve mute or slow the reed response? if so remove the valve, or weaken it

2: do the reeds beat & burble when valves are not fitted? if so then fit them

 

Clearly the above will vary from machine to machine. So there is no hard and fast rule.

 

Dave

[Chris Ghent]

Happy to be corrected...

 

Chris

[d.elliott]

Happy to be corrected...

 

Chris

 

I hope 'happy'- yes; but corrected? surely not, the word 'clarified' came to my mind

 

Dave