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Slow-food Concertina Making, 5


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post-4951-1185178391_thumb.jpgpost-4951-1185177759_thumb.jpgpost-4951-1185177759_thumb.jpgpost-4951-1185177594_thumb.jpgAt last, 4 weeks (part-time) work on the 2 reed-pans has been completed!! The end-frames now screw together in one entity.

 

Bellows come next, and I will be using many of the great ideas that Bob Tedrow has given us. This will certainly streamline the process, which formerly took about 4 days.

 

I append 2 photographs of the progress, and one showing how a workshop should not look!! Well, maybe a dusty, debris-strewn shop represents real work...I don't really know!!

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Bellows come next, and I will be using many of the great ideas that Bob Tedrow has given us. This will certainly streamline the process, which formerly took about 4 days.

One thought for the bellows, I like to cut my card strips with a 45 degree bevel on the edges (parallelogram cross section ) swap ends on alternates strips and lay them so that when all folded , the inner and outer peaks are actual peaks and not squared tops. This gives a nice rounded top to the finished peak that doesn't get a valley in the center of the peak when it opens up, as well as allowing any leather top run hinge applied to an open bellows more ability to bend over the peak as it closes without needing to stretch.

 

This isn't really an issue with Bob's bellows which have very flexible leather on them, but can be with stiffer and or thicker stuff. I personally like the rounded top to the folds., and found one of those "Dexter" type 45 degree picture mat cutters or equivalent made quick work of generating the card strips.

Dana

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Bellows come next, and I will be using many of the great ideas that Bob Tedrow has given us. This will certainly streamline the process, which formerly took about 4 days.

One thought for the bellows, I like to cut my card strips with a 45 degree bevel on the edges (parallelogram cross section ) swap ends on alternates strips and lay them so that when all folded , the inner and outer peaks are actual peaks and not squared tops. This gives a nice rounded top to the finished peak that doesn't get a valley in the center of the peak when it opens up, as well as allowing any leather top run hinge applied to an open bellows more ability to bend over the peak as it closes without needing to stretch.

 

This isn't really an issue with Bob's bellows which have very flexible leather on them, but can be with stiffer and or thicker stuff. I personally like the rounded top to the folds., and found one of those "Dexter" type 45 degree picture mat cutters or equivalent made quick work of generating the card strips.

Dana

 

 

Thanx, Dana. Would you be able to send a quick sketch of what you describe, because I am sure it is a great idea...tho" I cant quite follow you.

 

Chris

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I understood the description Dana and it sounds like an excellent idea. Although I have a bevel cutter for picture framing it's really not that accurate so I'd be tempted to go to a framing shop and have the matboard cut to order for me which shouldn't be too expensive. It's probably ok to take your own museum board in for cutting too, if that's what you prefer to use.

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I understood the description Dana and it sounds like an excellent idea. Although I have a bevel cutter for picture framing it's really not that accurate so I'd be tempted to go to a framing shop and have the matboard cut to order for me which shouldn't be too expensive. It's probably ok to take your own museum board in for cutting too, if that's what you prefer to use.

I don't use the Dexter cutter, but a different one made from an aluminum extrusion with a swing down blade (only cuts when you put pressure on it ) I have a piece of plywood with a smooth edge that I bring the edge of the board up to. ( board stock covers the plywood ) I have the cutter screwed to a delrin block that slides along the edge of the plywood and board stock. The cutter is attached so it overhangs the board by the correct width. I cut off the strip in a second or two, slide the board to but on the edge again ( against the delrin block ) and make another cut until the sheet is used up then go on the the next one. The first strip of each sheet has one square edge, but I save those for the begining and ending folds which I skive with an knife anyway to a shallower angle. ( I don't inset my bellows ends.) For me making the strips is quick and easy, but a framing shop I'm sure would oblige. I use a very hard thinner card stock made by Bainbridge or Strathmore ( cant remember which ) called "Black on Black". I love it but unfortunately it only comes in half the size of normal presentation board. so you can't cut the long strips Bob uses.

Dana

Edited by Dana Johnson
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