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Beginning A Restoration Project


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Hi everyone,

 

After two successful restorations of 20B Lachenals, I was feeling pretty confident and bought a 26 button on Ebay that looks as if it spent the last 80 years in the damp trunk of someone's car....

 

It took me two hours to get one end off. 3 of the 6 bolt heads were already fouled and one was completely seized (requiring the use of a drill to remove). It's a miracle that I now have both ends off and all bolts out without damage to the ends. Of the 12 end bolts, I am looking at 7 or 8 of them being usable. Of those, all have significant rust and/or corrosion, and only half of them are still perfectly straight. I have an instrument I can use as a donor, with 8 good screws that match, so I have the potential of a complete vintage set. I'm wondering what the best way is to clean the corrosion off of the surviving bolts? Is there an acid or something I should use? Gas? I've also considered a complete replacement set, with hex heads or something. I want them to work well, and to look nice. It doesn't have to be an authentic repair.

 

Also... All of the steel reeds are also engulfed in rust and corrosion. My plan is to clean each one by hand, simply scraping and filing the shoes and the reeds free of the junk, but that won't work for the areas around the two screws that secure each tongue. Maybe that doesn't matter. but I'm wondering if soaking the reeds in something might do a more complete job with less effort?

 

If all I do is learn from the experience, that's okay with me, but I want to do a good job if a good job can be done. All help appreciated!

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I've also considered a complete replacement set, with hex heads or something. I want them to work well, and to look nice. It doesn't have to be an authentic repair.
Then I suggest getting a new set from the Button Box. We sell brass 1 1/4" x 4-40 fillister head with matching brass inserts (similar to the ones shown below) which is what we use on our Morse boxes.

fillister-head-dimensions.jpg

Also... All of the steel reeds are also engulfed in rust and corrosion. My plan is to clean each one by hand, simply scraping and filing the shoes and the reeds free of the junk, but that won't work for the areas around the two screws that secure each tongue. Maybe that doesn't matter. but I'm wondering if soaking the reeds in something might do a more complete job with less effort?
Ack! I suggest that you gently scrape off anything that easily comes off (like with the tip of a small screwdriver) - and leave the rest. It may not be pretty, but it'll work well. The problem with filing and chemically cleaning is that the newly exposed metal will corrode. Not a big deal with the strap and screws, but the reed tongue is another matter. New corrosion/rust might cause the pitch to change, may weaken the reed and may build up on the edges (gap the void between it and the plate) causing chatter or binding.

 

-- Rich --

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I've also considered a complete replacement set, with hex heads or something. I want them to work well, and to look nice. It doesn't have to be an authentic repair.
Then I suggest getting a new set from the Button Box. We sell brass 1 1/4" x 4-40 fillister head with matching brass inserts (similar to the ones shown below) which is what we use on our Morse boxes.

fillister-head-dimensions.jpg

Also... All of the steel reeds are also engulfed in rust and corrosion. My plan is to clean each one by hand, simply scraping and filing the shoes and the reeds free of the junk, but that won't work for the areas around the two screws that secure each tongue. Maybe that doesn't matter. but I'm wondering if soaking the reeds in something might do a more complete job with less effort?
Ack! I suggest that you gently scrape off anything that easily comes off (like with the tip of a small screwdriver) - and leave the rest. It may not be pretty, but it'll work well. The problem with filing and chemically cleaning is that the newly exposed metal will corrode. Not a big deal with the strap and screws, but the reed tongue is another matter. New corrosion/rust might cause the pitch to change, may weaken the reed and may build up on the edges (gap the void between it and the plate) causing chatter or binding.

 

-- Rich --

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You should probably get yourself a can of wd-40 for cleaning your screws and reeds, or, even better, PB Blaster, great stuff for rust and protecting the metal parts afterward. WD you can get anywhere, but you probably must go to an auto parts store for the PB Blaster. Just spray on the parts, let sit a little while, then use a small wire brush to remove the oxidation, and you will be fine. Good luck with it.

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If you want to experiment, I successfully used an electric technique on bits of old motorcycle. My chemistry relies on looking things up and the necessary article is buried but I used a battery charger to provide the current, I think I may have regulated the current with an old fire element and croc clip as do-it-yourself rheostat and a baby's bath of solution of washing soda. I connected the item I wanted to de-rust to one terminal and hung it in the solution with a bit of scrap copper pipe for the other terminal. Which terminal was which is, of course, vital and I can't remember, but I bet most of the folk on the forum will tell us.

 

I wasn't completely happy about putting bits of my rare motorcycle through this but it did seem to rake the rust out of pits and didn't damage it I had hopes of 'restoring the metal'. That didn't seem to happen but it did convert rust into black sludge that washed off (Iron hydroxide into iron oxide?) and the rest of the Mondial's fork stanchion (for those interested) stayed bright steel.

 

Whether this really was the electricity or just what would have happened in a solution of washing soda anyway I don't know, but I would think about using it again if I had a delicate piece of iron to reclaim.

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Much thanks to all of you for your suggestions and help. I lucked out with the end bolts, having a decent set of 12 between the originals (I was able to clean) and my donor box. I followed Richard's advice over last weekend and scraped only what I could from the reeds, leaving the rest. The reeds are clean. The shoes look pretty ragged. It would be nice if they looked new and pretty, but the real test will be when I hear them. I am awaiting a new set of bellows for that test. For now I think I've done the best anyone could do with the reeds and the end bolts...

 

I have a new question. The previous owner obviously had issues with leakage from one reed chamber to the next (between the reed chambers and the pad board). The chamois on the tops of three of the chambers was very dirty, and one even had a small old piece of cardboard glued to the top. So I took this garbage off to fix it properly only to find that two of the reed chamber walls were missing chunks of the wood. So the tops of the walls are no longer flat. I assume this cannot be fixed with chamois alone. How should I make these wall tops flat like their mates? Build them up with wood putty? Being so exposed on the top of a thin strip of wood, it seems like wood putty would crumble eventually. They are quite firmly attached still, so I'm reluctant to remove/replace them. The manual did not mention this obstacle...

 

Also, I am curious... I have ordered a new set of bellows that I will (be learning how to) fit myself. I would like to learn about building bellows from scratch. I have looked all over the net, and have not found any resources. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

Thanks everyone!

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I would glue on flat tooth picks. If they are too high, sand them down after the glue dries to match the chamber walls. As for the bellows project, there is a guy on here from Australia who makes bellows from scratch, without the form. I can't think of his name, but I'm sure people on here will. Any volunteers?

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The previous owner obviously had issues with leakage from one reed chamber to the next (between the reed chambers and the pad board). The chamois on the tops of three of the chambers was very dirty, and one even had a small old piece of cardboard glued to the top. So I took this garbage off to fix it properly only to find that two of the reed chamber walls were missing chunks of the wood. So the tops of the walls are no longer flat. I assume this cannot be fixed with chamois alone. How should I make these wall tops flat like their mates?
Filling in with wood is what we do. But it sounds like there's more leakage across the top of the chambers than just those two points? Check the reedpan support blocks which are in the corners of the bellows frames. Sounds like a couple of those have come loose. Also - over time the entire reedpan/chamber can shrink - causing the gap. Shimming on those cornerblocks is a good way to snug it up.

 

-- Rich --

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  • 1 month later...

Hello Again Everyone,

 

This 26 button Lachenal has become quite a beauty. I've fitted new bellows on it (from David Leese), I've replaced some pads and valves, replaced a couple springs, fixed some of the cracked fetwork, cleaned and tuned all the reeds... I'm quite excited when I come home from work to see it sitting on my coffee table! Last night I was playing some tunes and noticed that the left index push (G) on the C row was a tad sharp, so being the obsessive perfectionist that I can't seem to not be, I opened her up again to take just a little off the reed belly. What did I get myself into?! I have tuned nearly all of the reeds, some up, some down, and then I've reset the gap so that they aren't too windy or too tight, and I've been successful with all of them. Now for some reason, after taking just a little off this particular reed, it continuously sounds the harmonic note when I blow through the chamber with my mouth, and when I reassemble and try again using the button, it sounds irregularly and stressed, like it's working hard to make any sound at all. Prior to my tuning, it was only sharp and didn't have any trouble apeaking at all, so obviously something I did messed it up. But I compare to it's mate and the shape looks the same, I adjust it's lateral position to make sure it's not touching the shoe on either side, and I get the same thing... And, I only took 3 or 4 scrapes of metal off, the reed looks fine!? I finally gave up and went to bed, feeling quite dissatisfied with my work. Can anyone offer any ideas?

 

Thanks-

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Your description of the sound makes me think the most likely problem is the reed striking the reed frame. Possibly your scraping of the reed has left a burr projecting from the side of the reed which is striking the reed frame. Gently scraping down the sides of the reed tongue should clear it. Another possibility is some of your scrapings have lodged in the gap down near the base of the reed.

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  • 1 month later...

You've all been very helpful with this project of mine. This 26 button Lachenal has become my main player, and it really has a nice sound. All of the reeds speak easily and are in tune now. I have noticed though that there is quite a bit more friction in the button action than on my 20 button C/G Lachenal. I can play the same tunes significantly faster on my 20 button, and it's because the buttons on my 26 don't slide so easily. Triplets are a challenge, and it's not because my fingers are too slow. I got out some sandpaper and sanded the sides of the bone buttons, because many of them had worn some grooves and other unique textures on their sides from years of use, and this seems to have helped only a little. I also gently sanded the insides of the holes. I've got some nice felt, so I could bush them and probably solve my problem, but can anyone tell me of any other techniques that might solve my problem before I dive into bushing a wooden ended Lachenal? I'm reluctant because it would involve making the holes a little bigger to accomodate the bushing felt. Right? I have found instructions on bushing buttons, but none specifically for bushing a wooden ended Lachenal that was never bushed in the first place. Advice much appreciated!

 

Thanks~

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Hi everyone,

 

After two successful restorations of 20B Lachenals, I was feeling pretty confident and bought a 26 button on Ebay that looks as if it spent the last 80 years in the damp trunk of someone's car....

 

It took me two hours to get one end off. 3 of the 6 bolt heads were already fouled and one was completely seized (requiring the use of a drill to remove). It's a miracle that I now have both ends off and all bolts out without damage to the ends. Of the 12 end bolts, I am looking at 7 or 8 of them being usable. Of those, all have significant rust and/or corrosion, and only half of them are still perfectly straight. I have an instrument I can use as a donor, with 8 good screws that match, so I have the potential of a complete vintage set. I'm wondering what the best way is to clean the corrosion off of the surviving bolts? Is there an acid or something I should use? Gas? I've also considered a complete replacement set, with hex heads or something. I want them to work well, and to look nice. It doesn't have to be an authentic repair.

 

Also... All of the steel reeds are also engulfed in rust and corrosion. My plan is to clean each one by hand, simply scraping and filing the shoes and the reeds free of the junk, but that won't work for the areas around the two screws that secure each tongue. Maybe that doesn't matter. but I'm wondering if soaking the reeds in something might do a more complete job with less effort?

 

If all I do is learn from the experience, that's okay with me, but I want to do a good job if a good job can be done. All help appreciated!

 

 

Don't use gas, whatever you do...first, it doesn't remove corrosion (though it might wash off any oils if that were the problem) but it's a fire and explosion hazard requiring nothing more than static electricity to set you and your concertina on fire. :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r:

 

I'm just starting restoration of a pretty clean 20B lachenal with a crack through one pad hole...any experience you could share on that kind of repair would be welcome...for the rest I'll be replacing pads and valves, and again any insight you've gained would be welcome.

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I'm just starting restoration of a pretty clean 20B lachenal with a crack through one pad hole...any experience you could share on that kind of repair would be welcome...for the rest I'll be replacing pads and valves, and again any insight you've gained would be welcome.

 

Here is how I do it.

 

All glued with hide glue!

Edited by Theo
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I'm just starting restoration of a pretty clean 20B lachenal with a crack through one pad hole...any experience you could share on that kind of repair would be welcome...for the rest I'll be replacing pads and valves, and again any insight you've gained would be welcome.

 

Here is how I do it.

 

All glued with hide glue!

 

 

Ah-HA! jVeneer! Brilliant!. Did you have to dress or reface the valve seat (on top of the board, where the pad rests)? Sorry, I'm a former automobile restorer, and may lapse into my native tongue from time to time resulting in nomenclatural confusion.

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Ah-HA! jVeneer! Brilliant!. Did you have to dress or reface the valve seat (on top of the board, where the pad rests)? Sorry, I'm a former automobile restorer, and may lapse into my native tongue from time to time resulting in nomenclatural confusion.

 

Yes you have to dress the valve seat, but not with a valve seat grinder! There is limited access to the area, but using narrow scraper is effective, and then final smoothing if required with a small piece of medium/fine abrasive paper stuck to a small block of wood.

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Yes you have to dress the valve seat, but not with a valve seat grinder! There is limited access to the area, but using narrow scraper is effective, and then final smoothing if required with a small piece of medium/fine abrasive paper stuck to a small block of wood.

 

 

I am in your debt. Thank you.

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"....before I dive into bushing a wooden ended Lachenal? I'm reluctant because it would involve making the holes a little bigger to accomodate the bushing felt. Right? I have found instructions on bushing buttons, but none specifically for bushing a wooden ended Lachenal that was never bushed in the first place. Advice much appreciated!"

 

John,

 

bushing felt is woven felt 0.8mm thick, cut 3mm wide on the bias.

 

It was not common practise to bush bone buttons, I have assumed that this is due to adverse interaction between key and felt. I have a Rock Chidley 48k English System, which is bone keyed and bushed, and this does seem OK.

 

The bushed hole in the wood is NOT PARALLEL, only @1mm is parallel on as the hole exits to the outer keyboard face. Look at the diagram in the Maintenance manual for details, the taper is quite fine and very important.

 

I would not look at bushing the keyboard until all else has failed. Look at the tightness and quality of the key cross bushings first (particularly on short arms). Also check:

 

1. the pads are not fouling the action box inner wall

2. the Keys are not catching on adjacent springs

3. the springs are sliding easily under the action arms

4. that the keys are not set too high

 

Dave E

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Thank you Dave for your detailed reponse, and for making me second guess myself regarding the bushing decision. I checked for those things you listed, and found none of them to be the exact problem, but upon closer inspection of my "sticky" buttons I noticed that despite the fact that I had sanded them, their sides were still not perfectly parallel. The offending buttons had unique wear patterns that were all a little different in profile. As an experiment I tried different buttons in their place, buttons that didn't have any wear patterns, and voila, problem solved. All of my offending buttons were on the left hand side G row, so I'm guessing the previous owner(s) had difficulty with hand position and pressing the buttons directly down, causing these wear patterns on the sides where the buttons rubbed against the wooden ends. This instrument had been played so much, and this was so evident in the buttons themselves, that I was feeling nostalgic about the using the "original" parts. Glad I changed my mind!

 

Thanks-

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