Simon Posted December 22, 2005 Share Posted December 22, 2005 I have a Lachenal Anglo and the end bolts are rusted and have no threads so the screwdriver gets no purchase. So how can I remove the action plate for repair? Also, where do I buy new end bolts in the UK? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Jowaisas Posted December 22, 2005 Share Posted December 22, 2005 Heat, usually applied through the tip of an electric soldering iron can loosen a stubborn end bolt. I use short bursts of ten and fifteen second contacts to warm up the bolt. You will also warm up the wood in contact with the bolt so be judicious. If the head is stripped sometimes a small vise grip can get hold of what is left of the head. Be careful not to damage surrounding wood. If the bolt snaps or shears you may be able to use the vise grips to remove the rest of the bolt, once the end is removed. With luck, the same applies with a bolt shank in the end bolt plates. Drilling is a last resort. David Leese of Concertina Parts should be able to supply replacement end bolts. Good luck to you and your concertina. And as Dr. Dave and his peers advocate: "First, do no harm." Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Read Posted December 22, 2005 Share Posted December 22, 2005 One of the first things to try if the end slots are damaged is to try mole grips to get the bolt turning. The heating option can work but not with advanced corrosion. In an extreme condition - and not before all else fails - you can ease the leather back adjacent to the bolt location and cut the bolts with a dremel with a cutting blade attachment. This assumes you're talking about a cheap Lachenal anglo (on which this is a common problem). The threaded plate is installed about 1/4" below the face of the bellows so you should cut about 1/8" down. You will, of course then have the problem of removing the remaining piece of the bolt and the anchor plate and following this with repair of the wood and reinstallation of the plate. It makes me tired to think of it . The ends can now be carefully eased apart although there will be a short stud left that can be carefully hammered through to loosen the bolt. As I stated above, this is the last resort and somewhat destructive. You will probably have varying success with other methods, depending on how advanced the corrosion is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Morse Posted December 22, 2005 Share Posted December 22, 2005 I have a Lachenal Anglo and the end bolts are rusted and have no threads so the screwdriver gets no purchase. So how can I remove the action plate for repair? Also, where do I buy new end bolts in the UK?I don't see where the problem is if the bolts have no threads... or do you mean that the slots in the heads are toast? Have you tried a screw extractor/emover? Most harware stores carry them (at least in the US). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_Coles Posted December 22, 2005 Share Posted December 22, 2005 I have a similar problem...I have an old Jones I want to resurrect one day. On one end it has old brass bolts that work and do come off. On the other end, someone has put in what look like wood screws (Sheesh!). They won't budge with a screwdriver, so I may need to try all these tricks. They are rusted steel, a tougher issue that just missing the slot on the head. Well, I'll tackle it one of these days! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Read Posted December 22, 2005 Share Posted December 22, 2005 I feel for you Ken. it's amazing what some people will do. I've had more than one instrument with the whole end glued together (including to the bellows) in the past. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theo Posted December 22, 2005 Share Posted December 22, 2005 I have a similar problem...I have an old Jones I want to resurrect one day. On one end it has old brass bolts that work and do come off. On the other end, someone has put in what look like wood screws (Sheesh!). They won't budge with a screwdriver, so I may need to try all these tricks. They are rusted steel, a tougher issue that just missing the slot on the head. Well, I'll tackle it one of these days! Heating with a soldering iron does work remarkably well. I believe it is the expansion of the metal caused by the heat which does it. Even though the amount of movement is miniscule it can be just enough to break the grip of rust on its surroundings. The rust not only locks the threaded part of the bolt onto its brass "nut" but if the shank of the bolt is rusted it sticks to the wood all along the hole through the end. Heat can help to loosen both. Another trick is to tap the end of the bolt sharply with a hammer. It's important to support the bellows frame on something solid before trying this. If the screw slot is badly worn try cutting it deeper with a small hacksaw blade, but use heat as well before you apply the screwdriver. If necessary get a new screwdriver, or re-grind the blade so there are no rounded edges. Many concertina screws have been ruined by screwdrivers which are worn, or not the correct size. Theo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laticsrblu Posted December 23, 2005 Share Posted December 23, 2005 I have had end bolts that have been held tighter by the wood along there shank than by the thread. Fortunately the Lachenal end bolts have large enough heads to be gripped securely by a good pair of pliers or as mentioned before mole-grips. If some of the end-bolts survive removal, I have found that they can be renovated by rubbing with wire wool to remove any rust etc and then rubbing with candle wax to ensure smooth troublefree use in the future. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Dickey Posted December 23, 2005 Share Posted December 23, 2005 One extra point to Theo's excellent advice. If you deepen the slots and use a screwdriver or if you use a pair of grips, after judiciously heating the bolt, DO rock it clockwise and anticlockwise a little bit at a time to try and break the rust coating. DON'T just try winding the bolt loose as you will probably wind the head straight off it or break it off further down the shank. To see what it comprises of see Bob Tedrow's site http://hmi.homewood.net/screw/ . If the bolt is too badly damaged to reuse then it MUST be replaced with another Lachenal bolt as the thread is unique to Lachenals. Alternatively you can retap the "nut" and use corresponding modern bolts with a pancake head. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.elliott Posted December 24, 2005 Share Posted December 24, 2005 Simon, by threads stripped, am I right in assumming that you have the ability to get screw driver into the bolt slot, and to rotate the bolt, it just will not move in or out? (ever-lasting-twist syndrome ) Or is it the slot that is deformed? (fail-to-twist) Two distinct problems, each with very different resolutions. You may need to look at Chris Timson's 'Concertina FAQ', to determine a repairer near where you live.. Just do a search on this site. Dave E Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red Posted December 25, 2005 Share Posted December 25, 2005 (edited) "If the screw slot is badly worn try cutting it deeper with a small hacksaw blade, but use heat as well before you apply the screwdriver. If necessary get a new screwdriver, or re-grind the blade so there are no rounded edges. Many concertina screws have been ruined by screwdrivers which are worn, or not the correct size. Theo" Just to amplify this most important point of Theos - it is essential to use a screwdriver which is an exact fit, it is a very simple matter to file a screwdriver tip to exact size Edited December 25, 2005 by red Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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