Mayfair repair...

[TinkerPhil]

Hi

 

I thought I'd have a look at why my Mayfair is so unhappy

 

Some notes don't play at all, others have a warble

 

when I opened it up I was not totally surprised with what I saw...

 

...though I was surprised to see accordion reeds...

 

I think I'm going to need some valves!

 

While I wait for them to be delivered anyone suggest how I might remove or disguise the "rust"?

[David Lay]

What does your Mayfair look like on the outside?

[wschruba]

Depending on just how long you want to sit there with it, you can remove the individual shoes, and pull the valves.  Using a metal polish like Simichrome (several vendors sell something like this, usually jewelry stores.  The idea is a slow-cutting polishing compound), tightly roll up a piece of sturdy paper until it fits in the reed vent, then place a drop of the polish on your working surface, and tap the end of the paper in it a few times.  As the paper blows out, snip the tip off with a pair of scissors or side cutters.

 

Support the reed either on the table (when cleaning from the 'bottom' of the reed), or with a piece of stainless shim stock slipped under it.  Scrub with a long-ways motion using the tip of the paper to get all corners of the reed.  When you're satisfied, scrub as much of the polish off as you can with a second piece of paper, and move on to the next reed.  After you've done one set of them, go back to the beginning with another piece of paper, and remove any residue left.  Scrape the sides of the reeds with a piece of shim stock to remove any extra smut that was missed.  This is an ideal time, before you reinstall the valves, to check the action/set of the reeds. 

 

When you're done, install the valves, and put everything back together; you'll likely have to touch up the tuning of the instrument, because any rust will have been material lost from the reeds.  Depending on your tolerance for work, you may find a concertina repairer/accordion tuner, and pass it off for tuning.

 

* NB, for reeds without significant rust, you can just use the paper alone.  The mineral stiffeners that are added to paper work fine to remove light filigree, and do an excellent job polishing/removing dust/oil deposits.

 

** Picreator makes a metal de-corroder that is supposedly bi-metal safe.  I've never used it on aluminum, so I wouldn't know, but I can drop a couple of things in my solution to see if it works okay.  Most chelating agents are not safe for aluminum/steel bimetals.

[Takayuki YAGI]

Model 36E (English, not Anglo), as suggested by the reed arrangement.

[TinkerPhil]

Apologies if I confused anyone, it is an english

 

The "rust" I was referring to was on the case as shown in thr last picture.  Its not important to fix but it might be nice if it gleamed a little

 

The reeds are going to take a while to fix as I'm sure the valves on the other side are just as bad, so the reeds will have to come out completely and fixed.  I can only imagine that being hours of work and I already have plenty of chores to keep me busy.

 

Probably best I just stick with the Jackie  - she o ly needs a couple of valves fixing!

 

Thanks for the replies

[Tiposx]

You could use a fibreglass pen to remove the rust. I wouldn’t go too hard at it, just enough to remove the swollen parts. The reeds might even stay roughly in tune!

[wschruba]

The ends are usually harder to clean/polish, because they are typically lacquered on those "less expensive" instruments.  It keeps them looking shiny, longer.  It is a similar plague on 'student' school instruments.

 

Considering the small amount of present rust, I would simply use an abrasive rubber block (you can get these from wood working supplies, but also sometimes hobby shops that sell trains or slot cars, for cleaning the tracks) to remove the rust, as it's not likely that you'll be able to remove it without damaging the coating or plating.  If you have a place near you with piano technician supplies, they sell the same type of block with rouge instead of the typical silicone oxide.  It cuts slowly, and polishes while doing it.

 

When you're done, use a product like "Barkeepers Friend" to remove the spotting you can see.  Light passes, and if you don't see it coming off, you'll need to strip the lacquer off, then go again.  Pure acetone will flake the lacquer off with some slight rubbing using a cotton ball.  Once the lacquer is gone, you can polish as normal with a paste polish, but take care not to go through the plating.

 

Since you have a bare spot, as well as exposed nickel, you'll want to follow up by using a paste wax to protect it.  I like Renaissance Wax, personally.  For instruments, a small container will last a long time.  You could also use a polishing cloth (sold at music shops) intermittently to keep it clean. 

 

Of course, it goes without saying that all of the above should be done with the end plate off the instrument.  Any tulle fabric that might be present on the back should be removed if it isn't black, because it will be after polishing.  Depending on the product you are using, it may be difficult to keep clean enough, so simply replacing the fabric may be easiest.

[Nigel Champion]

I think you will find those end-plates are made of aluminium.  You can scrape off the white powder (aluminium oxide) but polishing aluminium is no easy task.

Motorbike shops have compounds for polishing alumininum crankcases, etc.

Good luck.

[Stephen DOUGLASS]

I used Bilt Hamber Deox-C to remove rust from a whole set of 'regular' concertina reeds, cased in aluminium. Left them in the solution over night, stubborn spots were finished with fibreglass pen (mask up). Labour intensive, but the result was transformative, I would use again.

[d.elliott]

Not long ago I serviced, repaired a 'fleet' of six Mayfair English system concertinas. If you use a nut runner then taking out the reed blocks is simple, just note which blocks come from which station and the block surface with the diagonal scribe line ids the visible surface. The small metal finger clamp plates can be fiddly I reamed each bolt hole to make it easier to slip on and off the screw. I bought some equivalent accordion valves and replacement was straight forward, The Aluminium blocks themselves needed no real attention, but the tuning on all the instruments was all over the place. It looked like Wheatstone's had bought in 'pre-tuned' reeds and never fine tuned them to the instrument. You might need to check that out.

 

Any oxide on the aluminium block can be removed by scraping, please don't use any chemical means. 

[TinkerPhil]

Thanks for the detailed reply

 

I'm going to start by making non-playing notes play and warbling notes not-warbling

 

Tuning will be for another day but I will try to make the refitting of the reeds easier where I can

 

Nice tip on the nut runner - I have various small powered screwdrivers and a couple of 1/4" hex nut bits - hopefully I will have the right size already 

 

I have reached out to OG Accordions for advice on the valves and will get them soon

 

I must confess, though, it will take me a while to actually start work - so please don't hold your breath here

[d.elliott]

3 hours ago, TinkerPhil said:

Thanks for the detailed reply

 

I'm going to start by making non-playing notes play and warbling notes not-warbling

 

Tuning will be for another day but I will try to make the refitting of the reeds easier where I can

 

Nice tip on the nut runner - I have various small powered screwdrivers and a couple of 1/4" hex nut bits - hopefully I will have the right size already 

 

I have reached out to OG Accordions for advice on the valves and will get them soon

 

I must confess, though, it will take me a while to actually start work - so please don't hold your breath here

 

If you get stuck then contact me.

[Clive Thorne]

Cue sharp intakes of breath all round, but with leather valves like that (in a melodeon, rather than a concertina) I have found that a tiny spot of neats foot oil on the valves can transform them, allowing them to close properly without vibrating.

 

I stress, a tiny amount, a couple of drops off the end of a pin perhaps, and then leave it at least over night for it to permeate through the leather.

 

It has worked for me. Others will probably be having coniptions at the thought.

[TinkerPhil]

To be fair to the valves, the concertina actually mostly plays!

 

Only a couplenof the really high notes don't work at all

 

the biggest problem is the warbling of D5 on the push and a couple of warbles elsewhere 

 

To be even fairer to the concertina, the biggest problem is probably my inability to play it 🙂

 

I will buy new synthetic valves for it but maybe I will try your oil trick first and report back

 

whatever happens, D5 must be fixed first - maybe that's just a piece of grit!

 

Cheers all!

[Theo]

I recommend these valves.  They are as easy to fit as plastic, but without the rasping noises that plastic can give on the larger reeds.

[TinkerPhil]

Thanks Theo

 

I actually ordered some sythetic ones from OG Accordions - since I'm a newbie they said its easier to stick them than the lwather ones

 

I also get twice as many for half the price 

 

Maybe when I have a more discerning ear I will do the decent thing and give it leather ones

[Clive Thorne]

1 hour ago, TinkerPhil said:

I actually ordered some sythetic ones from OG Accordions - since I'm a newbie they said its easier to stick them than the leather ones

 

Although many traditional materials and glues etc , including leather, are wonderful at what they do, we mustn't blindly ignore modern options which can (but not necessarily) be even better.

 

For example a lot of people swear by fish glue, but do we really think that the original makers would not have used PVA or epoxy, evostik etc., had they been available?

Edited June 17 by Clive Thorne

[TinkerPhil]

I'm always amazed at the applications for PVA - I used to dismiss it a "school glue" but it pretty much sticks most things to most things

 

Pritstick, though, I still cannot bring myself to like 🙂

 

I'm sure, though, that leather valves, when they "thunk" shut will "thunk" more nicely than synthetic ones

 

I'm just not going to spend the money on more expensive leather ones when they're more difficult to fit and I doubt I'll even notice their benefit