Bellows gasket

[BrokenBox]

Following comments on this forum I've bought the most even thickness chamois I could find from our local car accessory shop in order to replace the gaskets in my Rock Chidley EC.  Before starting I wondered if there was any advice I've missed?

I've removed the old gasket and discovered it was a single piece. It appears to have been glued to the inside face of the bellows first and then stretched over the top edge.  This is how I thought to fit the new gasket. I've seen other posts on here where it has been done in six strips; is there anything for and against for the each method?

I'm planning on using Titebond to glue the chamois, possible slightly diluted with water and brushed on thinly.  I will glue it around the inside of the frame and let it dry, then spread glue over the top edge and ease the chamois over it.  Then trim any overspill and black the edge of the chamois with a Sharpie so that it disappears against the leather of the bellows.

The original gasket is fitted over a packer that runs around three sides of the frame (close up photo); I have left this undisturbed and will run the new gasket over it.

Thanks!

[Don Taylor]

2 hours ago, BrokenBox said:

I'm planning on using Titebond

I think that Titebond is a PVA glue so may not be the best choice to make? 

 

I have been using fish glue which is water soluble and can be over glued which I don't think is the case with PVA glues.

[BrokenBox]

I've got the hide glue that Titebond do. It is also water soluble and removable. I'm assuming it's okay for chamois, but I'm open to suggestions.

[Tiposx]

I use wheat glue (thin flour paste, brought just to the boil in a microwave, then cooled. This thickens it up). If needed the chamois can be peeled off easily.

I use a single strip of chamois.

Edited April 22 by Tiposx

[Frank Edgley]

I don't think some of the modern glues would not be a good idea. What if you want to remove it? It would be very difficult. If you had to redo it the glue itself would remain on the bellows frame and would provide an an unlevel surface for the replacement gasket. A water based glue would be better.

[Don Taylor]

2 hours ago, BrokenBox said:

I've got the hide glue that Titebond do. It is also water soluble and removable. I'm assuming it's okay for chamois, but I'm open to suggestions.

I had not come across Titebond Hide Liquid Hide Glue before and it does look promising as it does not have to be heated in a boiling pan before use which would be very convenient.

 

Titebond's website does not mention water solubility but comments in this interesting article seem to confirm that it is water soluble:

https://paulsellers.com/2013/04/titebond-liquid-hide-glue/

 

I would run a test on some scrap wood and chamois first.

[alex_holden]

6 hours ago, BrokenBox said:

 

I've removed the old gasket and discovered it was a single piece. It appears to have been glued to the inside face of the bellows first and then stretched over the top edge.  This is how I thought to fit the new gasket. I've seen other posts on here where it has been done in six strips; is there anything for and against for the each method?

I'm planning on using Titebond to glue the chamois, possible slightly diluted with water and brushed on thinly.  I will glue it around the inside of the frame and let it dry, then spread glue over the top edge and ease the chamois over it.  Then trim any overspill and black the edge of the chamois with a Sharpie so that it disappears against the leather of the bellows.

 

I usually do it in one or two pieces. Don't put the joint in a corner. I glue the inside faces on first, then punch the small holes for the end bolts before sticking the top face down. Make the part that folds over the top face a bit wider than the wall thickness because you need some extra width in the corners. Similarly if you push a bit of extra chamois into the corners as you go around the inside, the top part won't have to stretch as far when it turns the corner.

[Rod Pearce]

8 hours ago, BrokenBox said:

The original gasket is fitted over a packer that runs around three sides of the frame (close up photo); I have left this undisturbed and will run the new gasket over it.

Thanks!

 

 

Can I suggest you do a dry run of fitting the new gasket before glueing it in. If you then insert the pad board you can check that the new gasket is thick enought to make a good seal. Some chamois from car accessory shops are thinner than the original. If it is thicker than the original you may not require the 'packers'.

[Tiposx]

Titebond hide glue is water soluble. I have unglued joints that were made using the product on several occasions with no apparent damage to the wood fibres. I used a tiny paintbrush to apply tepid water. Allow it to soak into the joint and keep it wet. After a few minutes the joint gives up.

I think that hide glue is a bit “over the top” for attaching chamois though. I try to use the least aggressive glue that will do a particular task. I don’t believe there is much stress on a chamois to timber joint, or to card. If it all has to be done again, using wheat glue it is simple to peel off and leaves no visible residue.

Cheers

Tiposx

[4to5to6]

I use “Old Brown Glue” pushing in to the corners as Alex mentioned.  It’s generally better to do the chamois gasket before the bellows end runs are done but not impossible to do afterwards.  It’s important to use a removable glue in case you have to place a shim for a good seal.

Edited April 29 by 4to5to6