Stiff valves

[VIN]

I’m midway through changing pads and valves on a Wheatstone aeola , having fitted them and noting that around 15 of them (30mm) seemed a little more stiff than the rest, I was surprised to find that quite a few reeds had become slow to respond and after fumbling around and scratching my head for a while (I’m not very bright) it became apparent that the affected reeds were all controlled by these valves, I hadn’t realised that the reeds were slowing the airflow and causing the problem and I’m wondering if this is a common issue. I would be interested to hear other opinions.

[Tiposx]

It’s a good idea to buy more valves than you need, and in a variety of thicknesses. I buy them in three thicknesses. What you are describing is normal, in my experience. Thinner valves should do the trick.

[alex_holden]

Yes, thick stiff valves can make notes sound quieter and muffled and require more pressure to start. The problem is you can't just make them all from very thin leather because valves that are too thin and floppy can cause 'popping', where if you increase the bellows pressure gradually with the button held down the note starts sounding before the opposing valve closes, then when it does finally close you hear a pop accompanied by a sudden jump in volume.

 

Clumsy gluing can cause similar symptoms to a too-thick valve.

[Geoff Wooff]

I  sometimes  think  people  change  the  valves  and  pads  as if  they  are    consumables,    like  the  tyres  on  a  car.

If  the  valves  are  not  curled  and  dry  or  don't  respond  to  a gentle  stroking  to  flaten,  then  why  change  them.  It  is  the  same  with  the  pads,  if   there  are  no  leaks  and their  stuffings  are  not  eaten  by  moths they  are  good   to  go... unless  they  make     annoying  slaps  as  they  close.

 

My  main  concertina  ( made in  1898)   has what  I  think  are  the  original  valves  and  pads. If  I  were  to  change  the  pads  I  would  have  to  make  them  because  they'd  have  to  be  very  thin ,  due  to  the  lack  of  available  height  in  the  action box.  It  is  these  original  pads  , which  have a  somewhat  harder  surface  (  due  to  age)  than  any  modern  replacements,  that  allow  a  bell like  quality  to  the  tone.  

 

 

[Chris Ghent]

On 4/2/2025 at 3:42 AM, VIN said:

I’m midway through changing pads and valves on a Wheatstone aeola , having fitted them and noting that around 15 of them (30mm) seemed a little more stiff than the rest, I was surprised to find that quite a few reeds had become slow to respond and after fumbling around and scratching my head for a while (I’m not very bright) it became apparent that the affected reeds were all controlled by these valves, I hadn’t realised that the reeds were slowing the airflow and causing the problem and I’m wondering if this is a common issue. I would be interested to hear other opinions.

Even with a good leather to start off with many valves don’t work well. They can come from the same part of the same hide as a bunch of good ones, and yet something about them is not right.  It is best to have many more than you need and if there is the slightest issue, or even if you think there is, rip the valve off and replace it. 
 

The issues are; failing to stay shut when the bellows are reversed (as Alex said earlier) causing a fuzz noise between the draw and push note and/or unusual stop/start noises in the reed sound, and this is a problem with the valve beside the reed, and being too stiff, causing the reed to lose its higher partials and also be harder to start, and this is a problem with the valve on the other side of the reedpan from the reed. The third issue is a valve which has as its steady state resting curled up above the valve seat. When the reed beside it starts it takes a short time to come down to the pan causing a pop. 

Edited April 3 by Chris Ghent