Reattaching veneer on a 1974 Crabb

[Joe G.]

I've owned this 1974 Crabb anglo (#18444) since mid-December, and about a week ago I saw that one piece of the ebony veneer had popped off of the frame, all of its own accord. Fortunately, the veneer piece was lying in the bottom of the case. There's no sign of impact or damage of any kind. I want to reattach the veneer, but I'd like to know what type of adhesive Crabb used in the first place, as I don't want to create a whole new issue in the process. Any advice will be much appreciated. Thanks!

[alex_holden]

Are you sure it's actually wood? Some of them from that period had black plastic veneer. If it is real wood, then hide glue is probably the best option because it is repairable if it ever comes off again in the future. If it is plastic, maybe some sort of contact adhesive?

[Joe G.]

Thanks, Alex. On further examination, I see no wood grain. I'll clean off the old adhesive and look again, but I'm betting on plastic.

[hjcjones]

I asked Geoff Crabb about the materials in my concertina, which he has dated to 1972. I was particularly concerned about CITES should I want to take it abroad again, and in particular whether the black veneer was ebony.

 

Geoff kindly advised that Crabb had never used ebony as far as he was aware, and older black instruments were usually dyed pear wood. However by 1972 they were using black COBEX, a synthetic uPVC material which was applied using contact adhesive and then trimmed and buffed on the polishing wheel. This was about half a day's work, compared with around a week including drying time for pear wood.

Edited February 20 by hjcjones

[Tiposx]

My friend has a Crabb “Aeola” that he bought new from Crabb in 1973. (It arrived on the day of his wedding!) We are sure as can be that the end covering is some sort of black plastic. COBEX sounds about right.

[Joe G.]

Thanks for the good information, hjcjones and Tiposx. It confirms what I already thought I saw, but with better evidence. 

 

[Geoffrey Crabb]

Yes, black COBEX, attached using EVOSTIK impact adhesive. Remove old residue with EVOSTIK Cleaner  used sparingly.

[Joe G.]

Thanks, Geoffrey. This is very helpful.

 

[SIMON GABRIELOW]

Evo stick is very much contact adhesive as it is described to be ( on the tin).

I can tell you from experience applying wood veneer  myself ( not plastics) you must leave it to slightly get tacky before you apply, and then it will grab the veneer onto surface instantly! And can be difficult to adjust afterwards. But very good on surfaces you cannot clamp due to shape or awkward surface.

I have just been using it to apply a wood veneer in larger sheets and works fine for that.🌝