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Posted

Lovely job! and thanks for starting a dedicated topic thread. Shows that the modification can be done with sensitivity the the original design and with reversibility. I'll add my version 2 3D printed plates when they are ready. My plan for version 3 was to send the finalized version 2 design to a specialist printing bureau but I'm so pleased with the material, colour and texture of the version 1 samples that I'll stick with that.

 

The benefits from the added plates continue to be significant.

  • Like 1
Posted

The CNC laser and computer program ( not my stuff ) made it a very simple process.  A photo was taken of the end with a tape across it to establish scale.  From that the computer produced a tweakable template.  We ran several prototypes to get it right which only took 2 or 3 min. each.  After playing a bit an added benefit has emerged:  The plates act as a set of training wheels!  Playing with them on makes playing with them off much easier.  I thought of doing a set with plexiglass but Joel says his laser is blue light which just passes through that.   😊

Posted

The black is from stock sheets of crafting material on hand.  I'm not sure what type of plastic but it comes in squares about 10" by 10" with a protective film on both sides which was left on during cutting.  The blond prototypes are probably high quality birch ply.  A couple of those are usable themselves and should stain nicely.  Joel also made a set out of very thin hard cardboard which could be used as a shim under for a bit more thickness or atop as a protective layer.  The fussiest part was/is marrying the fretwork sample to the button field.  Inside Wheatstone's fretwork circle everything's asymmetrical.  I think I'll ask for another cut of the RH side to line it up a bit better.  The whole thing is archived so it shouldn't be a problem. I'll ask about the black material.  It cut very cleanly with the laser.

Posted

Looks great Wunks. I'm happy to see other players going with this design idea. You have to play for awhile to get used to the new feel. I now would never remove them. I like the idea that the instrument is capable of being played better than I am able to play. I know that as I improve the instrument will not encumber that process.

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Posted (edited)

Yah.  I'm amazed at the result.  Because we made several prototypes, I've been trying out different thicknesses all the way up to leaving the button tops just proud of the surface.  At that point I feel like I'm losing some control over volume and voicing as well as referencing where I'm at.  1.2mm thickness seems about right for me.  Above that and it's scary!....😗 

 

By the way, although I had the advantage of some high tech expertise, It would be fairly easy to experiment with different layers of card stock.

Edited by wunks
clarity
Posted

With the large holes do you feel them? Mine are a very close fit but I still feel the hole. I chamfered them all a tiny bit which helped. It looks like your outer row is a bit too far out. By fine tuning the position you might be able to make the holes smaller.

Good job. Will you make your print file available for others to use?

Posted

I don't feel the holes but my buttons bottom out just before the shank goes totally below the plate surface.  I just experimented with a doubled plate which results in a button exposure similar to that of your side on photo in the other post.  This allows the top of the button to travel below the plate and I can definitely feel that hole edge!  I have a set out of very thin card stock that makes it about as thick as I'd like to go.  I like the oversize holes for the lean of the buttons.  In the photos the plates are loose on the ends.  Not a perfect fit but very close.  It's a Jeff duet with unique pattern and spacing so not of much use to others I'm afraid.  

Posted

Something I've wondered about with end plates is how much the placement and size of the negative space (cut out areas) affects the balance of the tone and volume.

I'm in line to have a concertina made and considered designing my own end plate, but quickly got overwhelmed at the prospect of how it would affect the tone, balance, and volume. And that is without considering the material used.

Posted

Digver, in the above case it makes no difference what so ever since there is no open grill work under the button plate.

 

Wunks, I removed the felt washers on the bottom ends of the buttons. These are there so as to adjust the stroke of the buttons and make them all depress the same amount. With the plates you want your finger to slightly touch the plate. This tells your brain to stop pressing. Muscle memory kicks in then.

Posted

It all comes down to individual preferences I suppose.  For me the sweet spot is with about one sixteenth of an inch of the button shank showing above the plate.  Any less and I feel like I'm losing something, although I can't put my finger on it...🤣

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted
8 hours ago, fred v said:

Digver, in the above case it makes no difference what so ever since there is no open grill work under the button plate.

 

Wunks, I removed the felt washers on the bottom ends of the buttons. These are there so as to adjust the stroke of the buttons and make them all depress the same amount. With the plates you want your finger to slightly touch the plate. This tells your brain to stop pressing. Muscle memory kicks in then.

That is not the reason why they are there. They are there to stop the button making a noise when it is depressed and the bottom of the button hits the action board. They are typically all the same thickness.

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