rob.reido Posted October 24 Share Posted October 24 (edited) I've recently bought my first concertina, a Mayfair english (from this forum!). The instrument is in good condition, but about 4 keys on the left hand stick down some or most of the time. I've opened that side of the box and can't see any obvious obstructions or damage, and I was told by the seller (who may well have more useful info to offer here) that the instrument was in good playing condition before it was posted to me. The same keys are still sticking after reassembly. As far as I can see the problem is to do with some of the buttons entering their holes in the reed pan assembly at slightly the wrong angle, which is causing them to stick down. The keys that are very slightly stiffer to push than the others, as if there is some friction from things being at slightly the wrong angle. How might I best go about diagnosing what's causing the problem and/or fixing it? I'm happy to pop the thing open and add photos if they would be useful. Edited October 24 by rob.reido Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiposx Posted October 25 Share Posted October 25 Some photos of the area would help. Most useful would be photos showing the levers (or just one) where they pivot. Also a photo of where one of the levers passes through a button, and a photo of the outside before you unscrew the bolts, which should give an idea of the sloping buttons. I have never held a Mayfair, but I understand that the action is slightly unconvential. I haven't heard any adverse comments about reliability though. It might just need some cleaning of fluff or grease. A fettler would doubtless be able to sort it out quite easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiposx Posted October 25 Share Posted October 25 I found this pic in a posting from 2019. If your action is similar to this, then I would be looking for stickiness in the holes where the buttons fit into the action board, or perhaps a misalingment/ twist when screwing the and cover back on. This could explain why several buttons are affected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob.reido Posted October 25 Author Share Posted October 25 Yep the action is basically identical to this. I can't see any obvious stuff in the holes the buttons go into, so I'll try and make sure everything's aligned properly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wunks Posted October 25 Share Posted October 25 Another of my NFB ( not a fettler but.... ) posts. If you can do so without bending anything, detach and give the offending buttons (or just one ) a half turn. See if it helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oberon Posted October 25 Share Posted October 25 One thing that can happen with this style of action, is that when there's a climate change you can end up with the holes slightly shrinking if the environment it went to was drier than the one it left. I reckon maybe the opposite could be true as well if in the case of excess humidity, where maybe swelling can occur, but in general shrinkage tends to be more of the culprit I think. Its getting cold and dry where I am (north east US) and it'll continue to get drier as the heat kicks on and precipitation decreases, and that shrinkage caused by a loss of moisture can play havoc with wood instruments. Crack flutes and whistles, shrink dove tails around concertina reeds causing the reed to foul on the shoe, guitar tops can split, all sorts of fun stuff. That's the first place to start and sometimes a concertina just needs acclimation time. Often concertinas behave strangely due to environmental shifts after shipping, even brand new ones. So that's at least the first place to start looking at in my book Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.elliott Posted October 27 Share Posted October 27 Recently I re-furbished a fleet of these instruments for a client who uses them to hire out in support of an online tutoring enterprise. I found that sticking buttons came from predominantly two causes: the keys do not have guide pegs, but are entered into full diameter holes in the action plates. The holes in the action plates can have raise grain from damp or too faster plunge cutting in manufacture. I found that reaming the holes dealt with most issues. be careful, however, there is a felt pad at the bottom of the guide holes to act as a damper. some of the pivot post 'saddles' may be nipped too tightly on the lever arm. Finally I found that a lot of the instruments were quite sharp, not as in old pitch sharp. I thing that some instruments may have reeds (accordion reeds) supplied pre-tuned but were not final tuned on assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob.reido Posted October 27 Author Share Posted October 27 Hi all, thanks for the suggestions. Re-aligning the offending keys was enough to sort the issue, the instrument is now playing great. Now to learn how to play the thing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Mellish Posted October 28 Share Posted October 28 Thread drift alert. I don't recall ever seeing levers of this type. Having cranked ends which can rotate slightly in the holes seems better than the usual arrangement which requires felt bushes in the holes. But that arrangement has not been widely adopted, so what is the downside? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiposx Posted October 28 Share Posted October 28 (edited) The levers have to slide lengthways through the pivot slightly as they travel through the arc. Either that, or the levers have to move around radially inside the buttons. Can't be as smooth as a conventional pivot. That's what I worked out anyway. Edited October 28 by Tiposx Wine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malcolm clapp Posted October 28 Share Posted October 28 I seem to remember that Marcus anglos used a similar lever set up, though it has been a while since I last saw the action mechanism of one of these, so I may be mistaken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gcoover Posted October 29 Share Posted October 29 (edited) Yes, Marcus and Herrington both use the sideways button lever. Also saw them on a rare Scholer EC. Gary Edited October 29 by gcoover Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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