Wheatstone

[Stephen Chambers]

On 4/2/2023 at 7:56 AM, Jacokotze said:

19 24 ? Is what the internet says 

 

So, with the batch number 27, its serial number is 30320 then, dating from 2nd October 1924.

 

Everything about it tallies with the model number, date, and the written description in the ledger.

 

There's no need to be coy about giving people the single most important piece of information for them to be able to interpret your concertina accurately.

 

 

 

Edited April 3 by Stephen Chambers

[Jacokotze]

So what do you think it’s worth on a minimum

[RAc]

1 hour ago, Jacokotze said:

So what do you think it’s worth on a minimum

Again, follow seanc's advice and have a professional look at the instrument and give you a valuation. That professional might also make you an offer for purchasing the instrument for restauration and/or resale. If you choose a credible and respected professional like Barleycorn, that might be your best chance to get a fair price for it.

Edited April 3 by RAc

[Stephen Chambers]

1 hour ago, RAc said:

Again, follow seanc's advice and have a professional look at the instrument and give you a valuation. That professional might also make you an offer for purchasing the instrument for restauration and/or resale. If you choose a credible and respected professional like Barleycorn, that might be your best chance to get a fair price for it.

 

Only Jacokotze is in the Western Cape of South Africa, where concertinas are relatively cheap...

[Richard Mellish]

1 hour ago, Stephen Chambers said:

 

Only Jacokotze is in the Western Cape of South Africa, where concertinas are relatively cheap...

Isn't there someone in that area able to give an estimate for (a) the cost of restoring this one to good order and (b) its value when restored?

[richard]

Aside from inherent, practical,  or sentimental value, on an everyday monetary level things are worth what someone is willing to pay for that thing.

[Jacokotze]

Thanks 

Edited April 10 by Jacokotze

[Jacokotze]

Also from south Africa, 

[Sohcahtoa]

Your 30 button is a more desirable model/configuration outside of the S. African market, whereas SA players may prefer the eight-sided Wheatstone with more buttons and 8-fold bellows. So, if you're looking for an instrument to play Boermusiek, it may be a good trade. If you are looking to sell the Wheatstone for a profit, you may have more success with the 30 button. 

 

Just my opinions, others may have different advice. 

[Stephen Chambers]

13 minutes ago, Jacokotze said:

A collector wants to trade me this one ,do you think it’s a good idea 

 

 

I wouldn't trade it for a post-war one, even Wheatstone's then best octagonal model, but some people might.

[Jacokotze]

Ok thanks , I’m very keen to hear the sound after the restoration. , concertinas is getting scears in southafrika (Wheatstone we like to play boeremusiek. So the 3 row works on a way , but not ideal  do you think it’s gonna sound the same as a 3 row postwar linota they look the same ,,

[Stephen Chambers]

3 hours ago, Jacokotze said:

Ok thanks , I’m very keen to hear the sound after the restoration. , concertinas is getting scears in southafrika (Wheatstone we like to play boeremusiek. So the 3 row works on a way , but not ideal  do you think it’s gonna sound the same as a 3 row postwar linota they look the same ,,

 

#50074 isn't post-war, it would have been made in 1937 when Wheatstone's re-started the numbering of their Anglos at 50000, but it's a cheaper No. 53 model with mahogany ends, simple fretwork, hook action, and (I expect) casein plastic buttons.

 

Your #30320, model No. 55, is a higher grade of instrument with rosewood woodwork, full nickel-plated fretwork. riveted action, and nickel-capped buttons, so it should play better and be louder when it's restored.

[seanc]

In a lot of ways, I think it's a toss up as far as a trade, as is.

 

I think the first question is, Do you intend to play it? or just flip it? if you are going to play it, I would suggest  putting the money in and keeping yours.

 

If your goal is to just sell it as quickly as possible...

 

  As far as we know, you can not give an accurate assessment (or should I better say, a professional diagnosis) of exactly what needs to be fixed. 

 

If you don't want to deal with getting yours to a competent repair person, pay them to assess, and then pay them to fix. Which is likely to take quite a bit of time, and possibly quite a lot of funds. And only then after sinking the money in will you get a reaonable estimate for value.

 

Then having a 100% up and running instrument will be an easier quicker sale. 

 

Selling yours as is, fixer upper, basket case, may or may not get you more than the trade version. But, a close to 100% instrument is likely going to be a quiker sell.

 

 

[Jacokotze]

No thanks, you guys are on it 

Edited April 10 by Jacokotze

[Jacokotze]

Is this one of the best Wheatstones made ? 

[Stephen Chambers]

10 hours ago, Jacokotze said:

Is this one of the best Wheatstones made ? 

 

Like I said, it's middle of the range model, but made when Wheatstone's were still building higher quality concertinas than their late 1930's ones, and those were much better than their post-war ones (though the expensive post-war octagonal ones were better than the hexagonal ones they were making cheaply at the same time).

 

Their best quality 30-key model was No. 59, described in a 1920's catalogue as "Ebony, finest finish, dark morocco leather, six-fold bellows, spherical end silver keys, bushed throughout, screwed notes, extra superior steel reeds, improved action giving rapid articulation."

 

Nickel-plated fretwork cost £1 extra on model No. 53, £1 ,, 5s on No. 55, and £1 ,, 10s on No.59. The nickel-plate is on solid nickel, but stays much shinier because it is plated. Metal ends produce a brighter sound.

 

The default key system was always C/G, but other keys (especially Bb/F, or Ab/Eb) were made to order.

 

 

 

Edited April 5 by Stephen Chambers

[seanc]

Jacokotze,

 

IMO.. I would NOT replate. 

 

As is it looks period correct, normal wear and tear. and perfectly acceptable for a potential buyer. 

 

With plating, you run into the possibility that it comes out worse than it went in. That could mean way too shiny. The color could just be off enough from orig to be "wrong" or unappealing. Or, potentially, for purists "why would they do THAT?' from a potential buyer.

 

if you intend to keep it and play it. Then do what makes YOU happiest.

 

If you are aiming to sell, I'd leave plating and patina as is.