Hello there

[jtmchorse]

Hi, I wanted to drop a note and say hello.

 

I'm new here and brand new to the concertina, like others before me I found an old used concertina on ebay and am now in the process of futzing about with it. One of the buttons was sticky so I took it apart, and the red stamp is the only marking I've found so far. I've yet to get the reed pans out though, perhaps there is something under there.

 

I've been learning to play the fiddle since the beginning of the year, and wanted to pick up another instrument to deepen my understanding of a tune, I guess the tin whistle wasn't quite good enough and here we are..

 

Anyway, looking forward to digging into this and slowly gaining some skills over some time. Oh and I'm in Spokane if anyone else is from eastern Washington.

 

Cheers,

JT

[Paul_Hardy]

11 hours ago, jtmchorse said:

.I've yet to get the reed pans out though, perhaps there is something under there.

 

Put thumb through the hole in the reedpan, curl and pull. They are just push fit, but may not have been removed in decades, so often stiff.

[David Barnert]

13 hours ago, jtmchorse said:

One of the buttons was sticky so I took it apart, and the red stamp is the only marking I've found so far. I've yet to get the reed pans out though, perhaps there is something under there.

 

What Paul said. But you won’t find the explanation to a stuck button under there.

[Theo]

"Stuck button" can describe several different malfunctions.  Such as:  button won't push down, button won't return, note is silent, or note sounding all the time.  Can you provide more detail please?

 

[jtmchorse]

1 hour ago, Theo said:

"Stuck button" can describe several different malfunctions.  Such as:  button won't push down, button won't return, note is silent, or note sounding all the time.  Can you provide more detail please?

 

 

Oh yeah sure, that makes sense. One of the black buttons on the left side was stuck open. When I removed the cover the little metal wedge piece stuck into the wood had come lose, so I pushed it back in and made sure the lever & spring action worked, that is to say made they it moved and the pad came up and went down.

 

Currently the box makes musical noises. I might try to get some derlin rod and make new buttons on my lathe.

[David Barnert]

24 minutes ago, jtmchorse said:

I might try to get some derlin rod and make new buttons on my lathe.

Are you aware that there’s an excellent source of concertina buttons, as well as other spare parts, cases, and all things concertina a half hour drive from Spokane at The Concertina Connection?

[jtmchorse]

I was aware that Wakker was just a little ways outside of town! I wasn't aware that spare buttons were available from them though. I'll have to see if I can make a trip out there to grab some parts and maybe even some advice on the box itself.

[d.elliott]

Looking at the photo of the RH side fretwork, this instrument has the hallmarks of a good quality instrument, rosewood ends, fine grade fretting and moulding around the edges. The buttons are bone, This could probably have been an option on ordering, metal buttons etc, were not always a preferred option - especially those with flat tops. I would not spoil the instrument with 'plastic' buttons to no advantage. 

 

The instrument is fitted with 6 fold bellows, again an indicator of quality. Looking at the picture It looks like you are going to need to replace the bellows, the bellows, like pads (which also seem life expired) and valves are all consumable items, like tyres, oil filters, sparkplugs etc. on a car. They all have a life, and whilst they all make up to a functioning car, changing them makes the car perform better an is more saleable. I would expect to have to replace: pads, valves, bellows, some felt work in the keys, I would also expect to have to get some springs as well. 

 

A final thought, I can see a pile of end bolts, it is generally a good idea to put bolts back in the position they came from, just commenting...

[Theo]

I wouldn’t replace the buttons either.  Plastic will be totally out of keeping with the rest of the instrument.  You can make much more useful improvements by renewing the parts that have deteriorated- pads, button bushings, valves, and secure the thumb straps.

Edited June 23, 2022 by Theo

[jtmchorse]

@d.elliott & @Theo Thanks for the input on the instrument itself. I was under the impression it was a bit more of the "student" type model, with the red coloring for the C notes.

 

Perhaps its worth saving up and taking it over to Wakker for some professional attention.

[dabbler]

If you decide to work on it yourself, make sure you grab a copy of D. Elliott's book.

Edited June 24, 2022 by dabbler
Better link

[Roger Hare]

5 hours ago, dabbler said:

If you decide to work on it yourself, make sure you grab a copy of D. Elliott's book.

Seconded!

[Roger Hare]

12 hours ago, lachenal74693 said:

Seconded!

I'll add - if you do buy a copy of this book, buy direct from Dave Elliot:

 

http://www.concertina-repair.org.uk/

 

The direct price looks to be much lower than the prices being asked on A*mazon, etc.

[jtmchorse]

@lachenal74693really appreciate the link to non amazon!

[Roger Hare]

7 hours ago, jtmchorse said:

@lachenal74693really appreciate the link to non amazon!

<off-topic on>

My pleasure! The prices charged on some of these sites (and by some 2nd hand book dealers)

for books which are still in print are often outrageous. In another area (Shogi) I have seen £200

being asked for a book which is still available at the originally published price (~£15).

 

I have been conducting a low-profile, one-man crusade against these bloody bandits for several

years now...

<off-topic off>

Edited June 25, 2022 by lachenal74693

[d.elliott]

A thought for the day, oft repeated. There is no 'Student Model' on any Lachenal price list that I have seen. The coloured keys were standard on bone keys, just a convention. I have seen them on Aeolas, I have also seen brass reeded Aeolas. Lachenal produced a brass reeded plain and low grade instrument, simple mahogany ended, called a 'Peoples Model', aimed to make the concertina more accessible to the working man. later a 'Popular model' concertina was introduced which, whilst still being plain and a lower grade had steel reeds. Whoever coined the term student model did us all a disservice, condemning some good instruments to the assumption or low worth.

[Mike Franch]

I suppose technically off topic, but I'm moved to say that this thread illustrates what I love about concertina.net and the people who frequent it. Someone asks a question, and gets helpful and friendly advice from some of the top people in the concertina world. We're a small world, but we take care of each other--and our vintage instruments!