Syncopepper Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=324393896838 This Aeola looks like what I have been looking for to replace my New Model extended treble. I have never bought a big ticket item on eBay and am worried about the pitfalls of doing so. The seller lists the early 1940s for manufacture. The seller also states "No Returns". Can anyone with experience give me any advice? Is this a good period for Aeolas? I would think the $3,500 asking price is a good price? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Wooff Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 (edited) This is listed as a model 17a which means it is a Tenor 48 . Like a Tenor Treble without the top 8 buttons. Goes down to C one octave below middle C. Generally speaking Wheatstone concertinas from the later years are not so well thought of ( not meaning they are bad) but if you generally play the lower notes then this could be ideal and 'golden period' ( prior to 1930) versions are like hens teeth. My 56 Baritone/Treble also does not have those top few notes of a normal Treble 48 but although I do use the whole keyboard on it I rarely run out of notes . The price is probably fair, though there is 'eBay money back guarantee' and you could 'make an offer' . I noticed today that eBay.com lists another Aeola for sale, from France even though I bought that instrument last week... not through eBay. Check for bogus listings. Edited January 3, 2021 by Geoff Wooff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conzertino Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 If you know what to look for, you can tell that it is a 48 key tenor by the position of the buttons! I love these small tenors, even though they have not quite enough air for big chords. I have a metal-ended one ( which belonged to Alf Edwards ), an ebony-ended one plus an Amboyna-ended one - all rather late models. Supposedly Wheatstone only started in the late twenties to make these!? I had a couple of Lachenal F-tenors, which look the same, but play in the key of F if fingered like a treble, but one row down... Rare and interesting stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syncopepper Posted January 5, 2021 Author Share Posted January 5, 2021 (edited) The tenor wooden ended Aeola (sn: 35364) that I am looking at was manufactured late in 1942 according to the ledgers. Can anyone advise on the quality of workmanship during that period? Can I assume good quality long tongue steel reeds at A440 pitch? Edited January 5, 2021 by Syncopepper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Wooff Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 (edited) Syncopepper, what sort of music do you play on your concertina ? Or perhaps more clearly what sort of concertina do you want ? I have a good reason for asking, in that there is another Aeola for sale in your general vicinity. Edited January 5, 2021 by Geoff Wooff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syncopepper Posted January 5, 2021 Author Share Posted January 5, 2021 1 hour ago, Geoff Wooff said: Syncopepper, what sort of music do you play on your concertina ? Or perhaps more clearly what sort of concertina do you want ? Thanks Geoff, I really appreciate your expertise and help. I have been to the Button Box and to Barleycorn and played many EC's. I currently play a New Model extended treble (circa 1880s) with solid rosewood ends. Most of my repertory is UK folk and maritime music. I play more in D than other keys as it fits my vocal range and spend a lot of my time in the lower range on the extended treble. Here is a recent clip of my playing style: https://youtu.be/PH256RgxRoU After playing many Aeolas I have decided that the metal ended ones are too loud and I think a little harsh for my taste. I started on a Trinity 48 key tenor years ago which I still own and have no problems staying within the top range of a tenor. I very seldom use any of the bat-squeak keys at the top of the extended treble. Having the extra eight keys at the bottom would be good but my primary reason for leaving the New Model, which I love, is tendonitis and arthritis that I have developed over the last few years and that is exacerbated when playing at the bottom of the keyboard on the Lachenal due to it's thumb strap positions. I need to get thumb straps relatively lower on the key board and plan to add wrist straps. At this time it is more comfortable to play my old Trinity tenor but, of course, much inferior in many ways to the New Model. The ebony ended Aeola I am looking at on ebay looks like it fits my bill. I am concerned, however, on the build quality of an Aeola made in late 1942. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Wooff Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 (edited) Right then Syncopepper, I can see your desire for that eBay Aeola. What to expect from a 1942 Aeola : I think the top of the range Wheatstones were still very well made, even in 1942. Information from a knowledgeable ex member of this forum is that the 48 key Tenor was mostly made for the Salvation Army. This would suggest the Tenor 48 has , perhaps, an ideal range for singing to. Expect metal capped plastic core buttons and a new type of 'hook' action. Perhaps Aluminium reed frames too, which, if it does the lighter weight might help with your arthritis/tendonitis. Will this 1942 Tenor be tuned to A440 ? The new case suggests it has been bought / used recently and could have been restored in the last few years and thus also tuned BUT if it is, or was, a Salvation Army instrument then it might be tuned to a slightly different standard. Re-tuning is not a real problem, plenty of people offer to do this. Perhaps the seller knows or can check to pitch . The other Aeola I mentioned is about 100 miles up the road from Kalamazoo but it's an extended Treble and not tuned to A440. Edited January 5, 2021 by Geoff Wooff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syncopepper Posted January 5, 2021 Author Share Posted January 5, 2021 Thanks everyone for your advice, especially Geoff! I have made the plunge and, with trepidation and yearning, I await it's arrival. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StephenTx Posted January 6, 2021 Share Posted January 6, 2021 5 hours ago, Syncopepper said: Thanks everyone for your advice, especially Geoff! I have made the plunge and, with trepidation and yearning, I await it's arrival. Congratulations keep us posted! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syncopepper Posted January 13, 2021 Author Share Posted January 13, 2021 I promised to update the forum with a full rundown on my recent purchase of a tenor Aeola on eBay. The Aeola arrived yesterday without any shipping damage. As it was made in late 1942 I had worried that it might not be up to the quality of the older ones but I was pleasantly surprised. It was completely playable out of the box. While the ends have not been restored and show their age, they are solid and have only a few hairline age cracks. While not expert, I do not see that any of the fretwork has been rebuilt and it all looks in good shape to me. The bellows have some wear on the bottom edge that rests on the leg but are otherwise in good shape. The case the Aeola arrived in is unblocked and I noticed that when resting on a flat surface the bellows want to expand a little, unlike my Lachenal New Model which lives in a blocked case. When first playing I found myself sympathetically gasping as I kept running out of air before my usual bellow reversals as it is not as air tight as the New Model. The New Model was completely restored some years ago by Wim Wakker and it’s newer bellows are pretty air tight. Regarding the Wheatstone, I could not ascertain air leakage from the bellows but could feel some air escaping through the fretwork on the ends, primarily on the right side. Upon disassembly I found stamps (see pics) from Chris Alger and two other persons (anyone recognize them?) on the pad boards. The seller thought he had bought it from Barleycorn about ten years ago. Pads and leather valves look to be in good shape. The long tongue steel reeds are set in brass shoes. The keys are metal over plastic-like cores and all are of a consistent height. The action is the later hook and post but has improvements over my New Model (circa 1880’s). The cross section of the levers are rectangular instead of round and pivot on a different kind of post. As an extended treble the New Model a few years ago had “cranked arm syndrome” as discussed on this forum in the past. Some of the levers on the extended treble are quite long and kinky and one of those had worn down at the pivot so that it swiveled when it moved and the pad would sometimes not seal properly. Wim replaced that one with a riveted action and I have had no further problem. The Aeola, being a 48 key tenor, does not have the long kinky levers and the flat sided lever design seems to be more stable. I have tried many Aeolas in the past but not where I could do so side-by-side with my Lachenel and previously thought the New Model’s action was completely comparable to those Aeolas I have tried in the past. While the difference is subtle I think the action on this Aeola is a little more expressive. The reeds (which on the New Model Wim described as “Superb”) are very similar both in sound and design and I am hard pressed at this point to describe any sound differences between the two. Upon disassembly I was not able to find any obvious sources of the air leaks. Referring to the pictures of the edge of the right end cover, there were in two places where holes from the inner edge connected to the screw holes through which air passes. While I wouldn’t think air leaks from the action box to the reed chambers should be a problem I wonder if the screw-holes which continue down through the reed pan to the bellows frame could be a path for leaking air through these holes? If so what would be the recommend plug for the pierces - PVA glue? The other thing I noticed is that the black seals between the reed chambers, bellows frame and pad board seems to be thinner and less spongy than the usual chamois. I intend to put wrist straps on this Aeola which must have had some installed before as there are threaded inserts for them at the top and just holes in the wood on the bottom for each side where I assume just screws with grommets were used in the past. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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