Weighting/ soldering Right 1A c#/D# to c#|c# on Anglo

[larryjhs]

Hello, I‘m a bit hopeless with knowing where to solder to bring the reed up a tone so it is easier for Irish stuff.  
 

at the tip? Along the reed?  Yes, I have a tuner.
 

  Thanks

 

Larry

[malcolm clapp]

Down a tone, surely, D# to C#

Solder needs to be applied to the face of the reed at the tip.

If you should be uncomfortable with the process, may I recommend Peter Anderson at West Heidelberg, ph.0402454830 who will, I'm sure, be able to help.

Good luck.

Edited April 22, 2020 by malcolm clapp
correction to Peter Anderson's contact details

[Rod Pearce]

Larry

 

Can I refer you to your post from April 16, 2019 on this very topic?

 

Rod

 

 

[Frank Edgley]

This technique will flatten the reed in question. Put a razor blade under the tongue. attach a heat sink to the reed by clipping it just behind the area you will apply the sloder. The reed sink is made of aluminium and is a clip device which looks like a tiny pair of scissors. Apply a VERY small amount of flux to the tip with a toothpick. Then apply the solder. Make sure you don't get flux on the edges of the tongue or the solder will get on the edge and prevent the reed from sounding. If that happens, it's not the end of the world, but you will have to carefully file it off. You will probably have  made the reed too flat. That's when you start to remove the solder carefully with a small narrow bladed file. Keep checking the pitch. It's easy to go too far. Then you will have to add solder and start again. Personally, I'm not in favour of removing the D# by flattening it. There are many beautiful melodies that need the D# as an accidental.....some O'Carolan tunes, Airs and Northumbrian tunes to start with.

Edited April 21, 2020 by Frank Edgley

[larryjhs]

11 hours ago, malcolm clapp said:

Down a tone, surely, D# to C#

Solder needs to be applied to the face of the reed at the tip.

If you should be uncomfortable with the process, may I recommend Peter Anderson at West Heidelberg http://capt.accordion@optusnet.com.au who will, I'm sure, be able to help.

Good luck.

 

yes, sorry down a tone. If it doesn’t work I will contact peter. I assume I can unscrew the ‘ block’ and just send it to him though I might have to seal it up again on the frame if it’s not a perfect fit (save on postage).  Are you in Melb?

 

thanks

[larryjhs]

10 hours ago, Frank Edgley said:

This technique will flatten the reed in question. Put a razor blade under the tongue. attach a heat sink to the reed by clipping it just behind the area you will apply the sloder. The reed sink is made of aluminium and is a clip device which looks like a tiny pair of scissors. Apply a VERY small amount of flux to the tip with a toothpick. Then apply the solder. Make sure you don't get flux on the edges of the tongue or the solder will get on the edge and prevent the reed from sounding. If that happens, it's not the end of the world, but you will have to carefully file it off. You will probably have  made the reed too flat. That's when you start to remove the solder carefully with a small narrow bladed file. Keep checking the pitch. It's easy to go too far. Then you will have to add solder and start again. Personally, I'm not in favour of removing the D# by flattening it. There are many beautiful melodies that need the D# as an accidental.....some O'Carolan tunes, Airs and Northumbrian tunes to start with.

thanks for this advice. I find the D# much too rare to keep on the 1A. As this is in Jeffries tuning I have D# on the 2A pull. 

 

 

[larryjhs]

13 hours ago, malcolm clapp said:

Down a tone, surely, D# to C#

Solder needs to be applied to the face of the reed at the tip.

If you should be uncomfortable with the process, may I recommend Peter Anderson at West Heidelberg http://capt.accordion@optusnet.com.au who will, I'm sure, be able to help.

Good luck.

 

12 hours ago, Rod Pearce said:

Larry

 

Can I refer you to your post from April 16, 2019 on this very topic?

 

Rod

 

 

Oh, thanks !  I had forgotten to check!

[malcolm clapp]

2 hours ago, larryjhs said:

 

yes, sorry down a tone. If it doesn’t work I will contact peter. I assume I can unscrew the ‘ block’ and just send it to him though I might have to seal it up again on the frame if it’s not a perfect fit (save on postage).  Are you in Melb?

 

thanks

Larry, I'm in Coffs Harbour, NSW.  During "normal" times,  I would suggest a trip to Peter's workshop, seeing that you are both in Melbourne. Best to take the entire instrument to him. Probably a "while you wait" fix,  though Victoria's Covid-19 restrictions may apply...

 

Is your concertina accordion reeded? If so, it may be simpler to just replace the C#/D reed plate with a C#/C#. Readily and cheaply available, and might save you a bit of work.

 

(Please note that I have amended my original reply, replacing the incorrect web link with a mobile phone number.)