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Lachenal 79001 Restoration


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39 minutes ago, lachenal74693 said:

What quality/weight of paper would you (or anyone else) recommend? Ta. Roger.

 

Roger, do you believe to achieve the quality you would like to have for your instrument by printing yourself?

 

I would strongly recommend the papers provided by Dave Elliott (see here) - re the black onto gold they're the real thing!

 

Best wishes - ?

 

BTW: What about the SS Pilgrim, are you still active with her?

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4 hours ago, Stephen Selby said:

Here is a sample of the gold blocked wrist straps for the Maccan (only).

 

20190612_163954.jpg

That’s nice, do you make reproductions or do you have originals.  Cost$$$

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4 hours ago, lachenal74693 said:

 

What quality/weight of paper would you (or anyone else) recommend? Ta. Roger.

 

I wouldn’t print them on a home printer.  I went to a professional printing company and picked through a catalog of paper and picked the best one.  They came out just as good as cards I’ve bought from others.  There is a guy in Ireland that’s a concertina maker who sells them on eBay or the guy mentioned

above too.

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5 hours ago, Wolf Molkentin said:

(1) Roger, do you believe to achieve the quality you would like to have for your instrument by printing yourself?

(2) I would strongly recommend the papers provided by Dave Elliott (see here) - re the black onto gold they're the real thing!

(3) BTW: What about the SS Pilgrim, are you still active with her?

 

Wolf, thanks for your reply.

(1) It was a hypothetical question really - I tried to find a print shop to produce some about 3 years ago for a refurbish project - and failed.

(2) I eventually passed the refurbishment project to Dave, who used his papers - as you state, they are the 'real thing'.

(3) No, I moved back to God's country 3 years ago, and severed my connection - too far to travel...

 

Thanks. Roger

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7 hours ago, lachenal74693 said:

 

What quality/weight of paper would you (or anyone else) recommend? Ta. Roger.

 

Hi Roger,

 

I designed the papers for Alex's #3 myself (you can see a picture here). I had it laser printed in a professional print shop on 90g/m2 acid-free paper and asked Alex to coat it with uv-resistant and moisture repellant finish priot to cutting and applying. Even though the concertina spends most of its life in its case and hardly ever sees the sunlight even when out, I was sort of paranoid about bleaching. But I do conduct a comparative test w/ two sample sheets (one unfinished, one finished) resting on my window sill and another set resting in complete darkness, and I regularly compare the four against each other. So far (about 6 months) no visible color changes.

 

Hope that helps!

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> '... I had it laser printed in a professional print shop on 90g/m2 acid-free paper...

 

> 130g. From Der Kunstladen. Colour No. 53804. A4 size. Chlorine-free.

 

Interesting spread of weights. I had been thinking of 110/120 gsm.

 

Thanks. R

Edited by lachenal74693
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14 hours ago, Seth said:

That’s nice, do you make reproductions or do you have originals.  Cost$$$

I had blocks made (at considerable expense) and had them done by gold leaf hot stamping. (Not real gold). US$32 for a pair, plus shipping. Rather expensive, but I need to try and recover the cost of the blocks.

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6 hours ago, lachenal74693 said:

> '... I had it laser printed in a professional print shop on 90g/m2 acid-free paper...

 

> 130g. From Der Kunstladen. Colour No. 53804. A4 size. Chlorine-free.

 

Interesting spread of weights. I had been thinking of 110/120 gsm.

 

Thanks. R

 

It's a trade off, as usual. Alex pointed out to me one disadvantage of thicker papers: Unless the outer rim of the paper design is white, thicker papers (assuming white paper) will visually add a white outer outer rim which probably won't look good against the gussets and outer runs.

 

On the other hand, thin paper won't do as good a job in smoothing out uneven gusset and run edges (which means that if you look closely, you can see where the edges run below the papers because thinner papers snugly replicate whatever the surface below it does).

 

Of course there's also the issue of overall instrument weight (though the papers very likely won't contribute significantly).

 

Alex simply asked me to provide "journal thickness" papers (slightly thicker than newspaper/regular printout - 80), so I picked 90 and it worked for him (he's extremly patient and good with his hands; I'm sure less skilled folks like me would have killed half a batch during cutting and glueing on).

 

Of course, very high quality papers will eliminate all of the issues. I did a good deal of shopping only to discover that printers who can deliver exceptionally high quality papers won't be interested in the small quantities that papers for a single concertina yield, or even half a dozen (all of the papers for my hex bellows fit onto 4 A4 sheets).

 

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39 minutes ago, RAc said:

thicker papers (assuming white paper) will visually add a white outer outer rim which probably won't look good against the gussets and outer runs.

 

exactly - and that's why I would opt for real gold on black (paper), in any event!

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7 hours ago, Stephen Selby said:

I had blocks made (at considerable expense) and had them done by gold leaf hot stamping. (Not real gold). US$32 for a pair, plus shipping. Rather expensive, but I need to try and recover the cost of the blocks.

 

Thats reasonable for sure.  I’m interested in hot stamps.  I make Bagpipes for a living and use a lot of leather and could find a use for such things, especially since I’m making and repairing concertinas now.   Very much in the early learning stages.  

 

 

Ok, back to my restoration...

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Bellows top runs were finished tonight using hide glue.  They are in the hydraulic press and will add photos in the morning.  Now just need to do the side ends that cover the end card and the bellow frame.  I’ve managed to get sucked into another restoration so I may post that in a different thread as not to confuse the two.

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