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lachenal74693

How to remove/replace 'rusted-in' screws?

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What is the best/safest way to remove end-plate screws which are 'rusted into place' without damaging the instrument?

 

I put the inverted commas in because I thought that on most(?) 'tinas, the screws went straight into the wood, and

thus cannot be 'rusted into place', whatever it is that is stopping them turning - just anno-domini, I expect...

 

Ta.

 

Roger

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I've released bound in woodscrews by holding a soldering iron to the screw for a few seconds. It also helps to tighten the screw sharply before trying to unscrew it.

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Only cheap vintage concertina bolts screw into wood, all others screw into what is termed a captive nut, usually made of steel. So yes rusted in is a reasonable term. Heating them with a soldering might help, have to be for much more tha a few seconds though. No sudden movements.

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32 minutes ago, Chris Ghent said:

Only cheap vintage concertina bolts screw into wood, all others screw into what is termed a captive nut, usually made of steel.

Usually brass in my experience in English made concertinas.

 

Soldering iron is a good method, but as Chris says it needs to be long enough for the heat to travel the full length of the screw. 

After heating a few sharp taps on the screw head, use a drift rather than striking directly with a hammer.

Try to turn the screw back and forth several times before attempting to unscrew.

No guarantees!

 

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12 minutes ago, Theo said:

No guarantees!

 

Not my problem - not my 'tina!  ☺️

 

Thanks for the advice folks, I'll pass it on.

 

Roger

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Soldering Iron is good, as is a touch of impact, do avoid releasing agents, like WD40 etc. Sometimes the corrosion is between the wood frame and the bolt, not the bolt and the nut. If in doubt, be prepared to drill it out I have a number of left hand spiral drills that drill in reverse, some times these can start the screw backing out.

 

Dave

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I made a 4 or a 5 mm core drill for this nasty problem when all else failed. Then replaced the hole with a matching dowel and then  re-drilled.  I cheated as I used a hardened sleeve ejector for the blank for the drill and ground teeth on to it

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The one thing I worry about with the heating advice is that the faceplate appears to be plastic in nature.  Would not heating up the screws start to melt the material?

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