Alan Day Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 If there is an easy way to replace the little felt rings in buttons I have not found it.Putting the buttons back I pushed out about three or four of these felt rings and it took one hell of a lot of patience to manage to put them back.To replace a concertina full, or when building a new concertina this job must take absolutely ages.If I were a manufacturer it would be worth hiring an apprentice just to do that job. Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 AL, David Elliott's ' Concertina Maintenance Manual ' pages 27 to 30 covers the subject in considerable, well-illustrated detail. Good luck. Rod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Collicutt Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 Look at this page from Bob Tedrow: http://hmi.homewood.net/twitterzephyr/zephyr9/ He cuts a strip of correct dimensions, to thread through lots of buttons and then cut later. About 3/4 down the page. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david robertson Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 And when you have installed your new felt bushes, you'll probably find it a devil of a job to get the buttons back onto the levers. I find it helpful to wiggle an old bradawl around in the hole first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeadFingersErnie Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 Adding to what David has said immediately above, I know that Steve Dickinson uses a tapered reamer to get the felt to fit. Somewhere like Toolstation is a good place to start looking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.elliott Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 I do what Dave Robertson does, to burnish and bed the felt into place Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david robertson Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 Adding to what David has said immediately above, I know that Steve Dickinson uses a tapered reamer to get the felt to fit. Somewhere like Toolstation is a good place to start looking.I would be astonished if Steve (or anyone else) uses a reamer to adjust the fit of a felt bush. He may well use one to adjust the size of the hole, since the replacement felt may not be of a similar thickness to the original, but if he does, I'd guess it didn't come from Toolstation. What you need is a peg-hole reamer, designed for a fiddle or cello. These are not cheap, but they do have the merit of producing a circular hole. I have tried cheap reamers, and found that they have a tendency to produce holes which are unaccountably hexagonal! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelly0312 Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 So, I had to look up "peg hole reamer". (ain't Google something; it even anticipated what I was asking for!) When you say "not cheap" I was curious. The ones I saw ranged from $13-60; and were described for guitar, violin, cello--Cello Peg hole reamer 1:25 taper-- It is the reference to the taper that I found interesting. I assume for button holes on the faceplate no taper? For the cross holes on the buttons inside there is taper to allow for play in the armature? (and these holes are also felted....) ?? Never thought about reamers with or without taper.... Now we are talking specialty tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.elliott Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 Are we getting confused between the key cross bushes and their inner diameters, or the end plate key holes? or even the holes in the action plate for the key guide pegs? Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david robertson Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 Are we getting confused between the key cross bushes and their inner diameters, or the end plate key holes? or even the holes in the action plate for the key guide pegs? Dave Quite right, Dave - I was thinking of the end-plate holes. (That'll teach me not to post while still half asleep.) However, I'm still having trouble with the concept of using a reamer on the felt bush, and it should never be necessary to use one on the cross-drilling itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Ghent Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 I don't think LeadFingersErnie was suggesting using a reamer on the actual felt, I took it he was suggesting it was used on the point where the two cones intersect to open the hole up a little, something I have done myself a few times when the aperture was manifestly inadequate, though I use a round file as it is easier not to leave a parallel section at the middle of the hole when using a file. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david robertson Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 (edited) OK, I confess - I have occasionally used a round file on a button, but only where a replacement had a smaller hole than the originals! Edited April 29, 2015 by david robertson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.elliott Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 I have a wide range of multi flute machine reamers, some with spiral and some straight flutes one I use to true up and skuffle out old glue from end plates and I have a similar too to be used in the same way on the tapered part of the hole. I have never needed to open up a cross bush hole, prefering to chhose the cross bush stock appropriately, but I could do so if I needed to. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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