Seán Ó Fearghail Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 Any one have advice on hand cutting reed slots? Not having the best of luck with it. any one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Ghent Posted June 2, 2010 Share Posted June 2, 2010 Geoff Crabb is the man to ask but in principle, mark out your slot, mark the centre line of the slot, choose a drill bit slightly smaller then the finished width, clamp a piece of something hard to the frame half the width of the drill from the centre line and then drill a series of holes along the line using the "something hard" to keep your drill in line. You then have a chain of almost touching holes. Use a jewellers saw to connect them up and a very good file to finish the job. A very good file has; fine teeth, sharp teeth, is thinner than the slot and not by a tiny distance, very square corners and usually at least one side has been made safe. Worth taking time over, the quality of the slot is a definition of the instrument. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seán Ó Fearghail Posted June 2, 2010 Author Share Posted June 2, 2010 Brilliant Chris. thanks a million! great help. And Geoff was kind enough to get in contact too, again. Thanks, Sean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Helmore Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 Hi all I seem to remember reading on here somewhere that the wood used to make the reedpans was 'pear wood'. Is this right? Thanks for your help as always Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Jowaisas Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 Hi all I seem to remember reading on here somewhere that the wood used to make the reedpans was 'pear wood'. Is this right? Thanks for your help as always Dave English sycamore, similar, but a sub-species of maple, is the favored wood for reed pans. It is usually quarter sawn in this application for stability. Other woods were used but the pans of quality instruments are nearly always 1/4 sawn English sycamore. Pear wood has a fine grain and is fairly stable. Dyed black it was a cheaper substitute for ebony in string instruments for fingerboards. May have been used as a veneer for "ebonized" concertinas. Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdms Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 I seem to remember reading on here somewhere that the wood used to make the reedpans was 'pear wood'. Is this right? Dave Whatever you do, Dave, don't use sapient pearwood... Joshua Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Helmore Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 Thanks everyone for the tips as always - much appreciated! David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theo Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 I seem to remember reading on here somewhere that the wood used to make the reedpans was 'pear wood'. Is this right? Dave Whatever you do, Dave, don't use sapient pearwood... Joshua Unless you want to make a self-playing concertina without paper rolls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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