Sticking Keys

[Randy Stein]

Suddenly the lower D key is sticking on my Wheatstone. Normally I run up to New Jersey and have it repaired. But we received 2 feet of snow the past couple of days and another big storm on the way. Because of past home repair debacles I have always shied away from do it yourself but am willing to take some fool proof suggestions.

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[Jim Besser]

Suddenly the lower D key is sticking on my Wheatstone. Normally I run up to New Jersey and have it repaired. But we received 2 feet of snow the past couple of days and another big storm on the way. Because of past home repair debacles I have always shied away from do it yourself but am willing to take some fool proof suggestions.

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No fool proof solutions, and it depends on the cause of the sticking. Lever misalignments can be real hard to diagnose, and require a delicate touch to fix.

 

That said. I have had persistent sticking problems on one of my boxes that defy the repair people who have worked on it. What I've found: the tiniest dab of powdered graphite lubricant, mixed with a drop of rubbing alcohol and applied with a toothpick to the rivet, will keep it going just fine for 6 months or so. I am far from an expert, and have a similarly long list of home repair debacles under my belt, but offer this as one possible temporary fix.

Edited February 8, 2010 by Jim Besser

[Greg Jowaisas]

Suddenly the lower D key is sticking on my Wheatstone. Normally I run up to New Jersey and have it repaired. But we received 2 feet of snow the past couple of days and another big storm on the way. Because of past home repair debacles I have always shied away from do it yourself but am willing to take some fool proof suggestions.

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No fool proof solutions, and it depends on the cause of the sticking. Lever misalignments can be real hard to diagnose, and require a delicate touch to fix.

 

That said. I have had persistent sticking problems on one of my boxes that defy the repair people who have worked on it. What I've found: the tiniest dab of powdered graphite lubricant, mixed with a drop of rubbing alcohol and applied with a toothpick to the rivet, will keep it going just fine for 6 months or so. I am far from an expert, and have a similarly long list of home repair debacles under my belt, but offer this is one possible temporary fix.

 

Jim's advice is good. Here are a few other things to consider from one of my previous posts:

 

A number of button issues which at first glance might seem a weak spring can be caused by other factors.

 

Alignment of the lever arm is crucial to a properly working button. If you remove the button, the lever arm should pass directly over the guide pin hole.

 

If a bushing seems to tight either around the button at the fretwork or where the lever arm passes through the button use a smooth hard tool such as an awl or a polymer chopstick to burnish the bushing.

 

Unhook the spring from the lever arm and make sure the lever moves freely up and down. NEVER oil a sticky lever. If it seems to need lubrication use graphite either in an evaporative soulution or even rubbed from a pencil lead.

If the rivet is still binding then that is really an issue for an experienced repairman.

 

Do check your springs. Not only for tension but to make sure they are properly seated in the action board and that their hook is not catching on the button or bushing. Springs work best up and down and any lateral forces reduce their effeciency.

 

Best of luck and check back with problems or success,

 

Greg

[Frank Edgley]

I think you've said it all, Greg. On older instruments, misalignment or stickiness at the pivot point on riveted action is often the cause. On new, or fairly new instruments it is very often the felt bushing around the button hole. It doesn't take much to slow down a button return or stop it altogether. The new felt can expand a bit due to changes in humidity or other factors, and need to be compressed as you outlined above.

On older instruments or those played a lot, it can be dirt & grease. I recently worked on an instrument I made for a customer four years ago. He plays a lot, and is a "professional" player, using his concertina as a source of income with a touring Irish band. It had one or two sticking buttons. What I noticed when I removed the ends was how dirty the sides of the buttons were. They were covered with grease and dirt, presumably from his fingers, over many, many hours of playing. When the buttons were cleaned all buttons worked perfectly, and no other action was needed.

[Randy Stein]

I think you've said it all, Greg. On older instruments, misalignment or stickiness at the pivot point on riveted action is often the cause. On new, or fairly new instruments it is very often the felt bushing around the button hole. It doesn't take much to slow down a button return or stop it altogether. The new felt can expand a bit due to changes in humidity or other factors, and need to be compressed as you outlined above.

On older instruments or those played a lot, it can be dirt & grease. I recently worked on an instrument I made for a customer four years ago. He plays a lot, and is a "professional" player, using his concertina as a source of income with a touring Irish band. It had one or two sticking buttons. What I noticed when I removed the ends was how dirty the sides of the buttons were. They were covered with grease and dirt, presumably from his fingers, over many, many hours of playing. When the buttons were cleaned all buttons worked perfectly, and no other action was needed.

Thanks. A little alcohol seemed to clean and take care of the sticking problem.

Cheers

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[Bob Tedrow]

Thanks. A little alcohol seemed to clean and take care of the sticking problem.

Cheers

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Yep, a few beers and my problems go away too.