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Mike Jones

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Everything posted by Mike Jones

  1. Still time to book/register for our excellent SqueezEast Band day. All the music is a surprise on the day (except to the Music Director) and can be quite challenging and stimulating. Why not look on this as an alternative to the Irish Music workshop with Sinead Turner that had been arranged for the same day , which I understand has had to be cancelled. You will be in good company with 30 plus other players, excellent acoustics and a grade two listed concert room to play in as well as not being far off the A1. Bring your own food or go to one of the excellent local pubs for lunch. Details are still on our website as above. Mike
  2. Should that not be Beer, more Drink, Sessions and Morris? My wife believes I have two co-equal Dominatrix, vis Morris and Concertinas
  3. I have a Jones Anglo number 28xxx that is stamped on the non-chambered side of the reed pans together with L and R. I know it is a Jones as it has a Jones stamp as well. I don't think mine has been messed with too much, it looked largely original and the valves in the largest chambers were also mounted in reverse. The valves looked to be in reasonably good order although they were very dark on the internal surface adjacent to the slot with very little curling or deformation. The external fretwork resembles a Lachenal and the reeds also looked similar, however, Dave Elliott says they are definitely Jones reeds. The pins were as would be expected and doubled for the largest reeds and chambers, which seemed to be suitable for the reversed valves as well. Mike
  4. Not by Jabez Austen either. I believe on balance it is a Jones. Now to get it back into working order. Buttons already re-bushed and new springs and pads. Clean the reeds next and replace the valves, then the bellows for which i need some brown gussets and end binding leather. Think I may try to make them myself. Mike
  5. Hi Neil, I agree, not a Nickolds. I was looking more closely at the bellows today with a view to tackling the repairs needed. I noticed that there appeared to be splits in the end binding where they meet the folds. When I looked more closely it seems to me that the end binding does not cover the top end of the first fold but is trimmed at the edge of that fold. The top edge of the bellows is similarly finished and the two sealed together with another length of binding and it is this binding that has split in places. There is still the linen/fabric in situ stretching from the bellows end folds to the bellows frame, in place and apparently in good condition. I have not yet been able to take a good enough photo to post to show this.. Has anyone ever come across this method of attaching and finishing ? Mike
  6. They can be. I had a Stagi, Hohner and Gremlin 30 button models. all similar in design and construction at the time (1990's) albeit in different keys. The action was the real problem with all of them as the buttons kept going out of vertical and wobbling, due ,in my view, to the poor design of the pivot and pivot point and poor use of materials (aluminium) that had little resistance to torsion or bending. I did make a replacement set of hand rests for the Gremlin which improved playability, although the sound of all of them was acceptable, certainly good enough for Morris. The Hohner was probably the best of them and lasted me 10 years before i had enough to buy a Rosewood Lachenal. All three were moved on very soon after. I haven't tried one since the mid 2000's so they might have improved in the meantime. I have no problem with the Rochelle I sometimes use except it is an early one with a small air hole that loudly sucks or blows air when used and the low A buzzes. I recently tried both a Scarlatti and a Stephanelli 30 button but found that I could not reach the inner row of buttons (I have long fingers). Mike
  7. I recently repaired a 32 button Jones, e 1880 (no cartouche on the palm rests and she tells me dated to 1872) for a friend, it too has steel action rods. I bet the reed chamber walls are made of the same mahogany as the action board? Mine is. Is the low C on the left hand side marked "cc"? Mine is, picture below. Also Lachenal Type papers. And the same robust reed shoes(much beefier than Lachenal reed shoes. Though it doesn't show in the photos(I forgot it was a point of interest), the hand rests are very slightly domed, not as much as a Lachenal, but not flat, either. Mine has machine screws, not wood screws. Mine also has a woodscrew going through the action board, into a supporting piece, into the hand rest. Your's doesn't seem to. Mine also, instead of the reddish material(I don't think of it as fabric) Lachenal used to cover the action, this has a type of very fine screen, like I have seen on some 19th century German made instruments. I wonder is the leather on yours was done by someone down the road? I think the majority of the differences in our instruments were due mine being a higher grade one, not a different maker. I also have a typical 20 button Jones to compare it to. Totally different, un-inked/unburned, and much smaller serial number stamped in. Reeds and reed shoes very, very similar. But the low C is only marked "C". Also, the F#s on the Jones are marked as such, but only read "F" on the Nickolds. What does yours say? My Jones serial number is two different ones, the action board says 8579, and the reed pans and bellows frames are 8580! (someone was asleep at the wheel that day!) One side had a screw through a block in the action board going into the hand rest, the other side doesn't, but it does have a glued up hole, and a broken screw in the underside of the handrest. Don Smith Don, sorry, No to mahogany reed chamber walls, no double stamped reed shoes, Reeds; F* are stamped F*, Hand rests definitely flat topped, no supporting pieces . Yes: to more robust reed shoes and Lachenal type end papers. My example has five fold brown leather bellows I've posted more photos to show the baffle, chambered side of the reed pan and palm rests. Looks as though there is no "definitive" answer to my questions, but it is fun having the debate and I had not realised how many small differences there are between concertinas in respect to makes, models and over time. Mike
  8. Hi Nicx66, Yes I have, as I'm also a cheapskate but also like a challenge. I have some old bellows from 48 key EC's that appeared to be in reasonable(ish) order, nothing a partial rebind and a few gussets would not cure. After cutting card for some delaminating cards, inserting new fabric hinges, and spending two days removing old end papers, rotten leather and replacing half a dozen gussets I gave up and ordered new bellows, it would prove cheaper in the end once I realised that it would be better to disassemble the whole thing and start again. Really minimal repairs may be workable but its like buying an old car, the rust you see is 10% of the rust you will find and the cost rises to match. All the best with your project. I've given up on mine for the moment but may go back to it in a few months once I have finished restoring three other concertinas to working order. Mike
  9. Hi Neil, They are circular drilled not slotted/open. The reeds and shoes look like Lachenal/Wheatstone reeds I have seen but with a precisely stamped note letter clearly defined on the rounded end, unlike most of the other Lachenal/Wheatstone reeds I have seen. Are open clamps totally /definitively diagnostic of a Jones? Looking at the reedpan illustrated in C332 (see below) none of the clamps there appear to be slotted. I found C333 on the Concertina museum website with the same fretwork but different action and reed pans and also the turned bottom pegs of the bone buttons enter directly to holes in action board, the holes penetrating right through the action plinth and action board. C332 has very similar action and reed pans to mine but more ornate fretwork, as do some of the other Jones concertinas featured. I wonder if after the fire in 1857 GJ was forced to buy in components from Lachenal and/or Wheatstone to continue manufacturing or is this the influence of Mr. Shaller introducing tooling in the manner of Lachenal (my interpretation of the Butler history)? So could this be a just post 1857 example? MIke
  10. I picked this up cheaply on an on-line auction recently. The style of fretwork behind the palm rest looked familiar together with the rusty riveted steel action. But I've not seen one with such minimal fretwork on the ends nor this size and shape of the reeds and shoes in a Jones before. My inference is that, if a Jones, it is likely to be before he introduced his broad reeds thus pre-1880. Can anyone confirm this or give me a positive ID (and a likely date range as well?). The number stamped into the woodwork inside is 1632 on both ends of reed pans and bellows frames. It has wood screws going down into the bellows frame (two of which are sheared), Mahogany action pan, 7mm diameter bone buttons, 27mm long, of which the last 7mm form the location pin. The internal cover to the fretwork appears to be genuine white leather like very fine bookbinding leather (I have a friend who is a bookbinder) and not the usual fabric used by Lachenal et al. The palm rests are of square form without the more usual dome shape on top and hend in by two rusty steel dome-headed wood screws. The bellows are brown leather with dot and cross pattern end papers. Unfortunately, although it has not been too badly treated (it appears to be complete) there are no labels. I would post more pictures if it were not for the forum size limitation, but can send more directly if anyone wants some, so PM me if you do. Many thanks in anticipation Mike
  11. Hi Roger, Did you ever get a reply to this topic? I too wish to do the same to a couple of old boxes and wondered if you had any success and where you got them from. Mike
  12. Does anyone have a suggestion for the date of manufacture of the Liliputian? I have done a search of the net and nothing there have I been able to find. Judging by the internals and materials used i would think 50' or 60's
  13. Hi Dave, "I think that you HAD several friends in the Troshers, calling them less able". That is how it was told to me by the players not named, anyway they don't frequent this forum. We are also planning at some time in the future to have a joint concert/ session/music event with SqueezEast and the Troshers. I'll see both of them on Wednesday when we have a bit of friendly rivalry with sticks during some dancing, let them hit me on the knuckles and then when they will feel guilty and I can ask the question to square things. I don't suppose you know anyone who can make and re-rivet some very small brass reeds in to zinc plated reed bank? Mike PS I sent you an email about a Jackie of ours you have. Any news?
  14. Hi Will, That I had forgotten about and I have several friends in the "Troshers " (less able accordion band but aspiring to greatness) and know a few other accordion players too. I shall ask. Mike
  15. Thanks Will, but David only deals with "traditional" concertinas and he keeps my others, Lachenals and Wheatstones, in good voice and I know he does not have the tools or equipment to do the job I'm wanting.
  16. Recently I "won", as they call it, a small 20 button "Made in Saxony" (as stamped on the ends), 4.25 inch (108mm) across the flats Anglo concertina with zinc plated reeds sets and riveted brass reeds. I have no idea of the tuning as it was and still is unplayable. However one reed is broken and I should like to replace it if possible. The existing reeds are not transferable within or between the two sets. Does anyone know of an artisan in the UK who is competent to do such work. If someone will send me contact information I can then deal with them directly. The instrument is an ideal size for my 4 year old grandson who likes in particular my 1860's? (number 18273) 24 button Lachenal (as well as all my other 'tinas) but finds it too large. He already has a toy melodeon and piano accordion on which he can noodle and find chords etc. but he still prefers my concertina. At the moment "The Liliputian" as it is called, has been spray painted gold, needs new gussets in a couple of places as well as some work on the wooden lever action and some replacement wood/plastic buttons (5mm diam), in addition to the above, for a start, but I shall hang fire on these repairs for a while in case I get an affirmative response to my query above. Alternatively, if there is another concertina of the same ilk out there awaiting new ownership or willing to be donated for spare parts I would also be interested in that. Thanks in anticipation Mike
  17. Hi Helen, See what John Adey's suggestion brings, in my experience all concertina groups are very friendly and welcoming (even if we can be slightly obsessive). It is possible to hire instruments from SqueezEast Concertinas (and West Country Concertina Players (WCCP)) as you save for something of your own, and as Paul says "If you want to find out about concertinas with an event presumably not too far from you, it is Squeezeast in Stamford a week on Saturday (http://squeezeast.org.uk/), and there will be dozens of tinas there". Unfortunately he got the day wrong, its Sunday 4th June, and all details are available on our website, just go there to register (nil cost) or just turn up. If we know you are coming we can bring some hire instruments with us either English or Anglos or both. You will be very welcome and we won't expect you to join in with the band. Mike (member of SqueezEast)
  18. Take a look at the Barleycorn stock pages from Chris Algar at http://www.concertina.co.uk/stock-selection/?concertina=2958. The guy who owned it until Saturday was playing it at the WCCP Kilve event until he upgraded to a nice vintage Lachenal with this as the trade in. It works OK, sounds OK and may well be suitable for your purposes and is not too far south of you in Shropshire.
  19. Hi Tarquin, have you thought about joining a local concertina club or band such as West Country Concertina Players, Kettle Bridge Concertinas , or SqueezEast (there are others dotted around the UK)? That way you you could hire or borrow a concertina for a short period and get to learn how to play it. If your chosen instrument does not suit, you can then try a different system. This way you get to try without expending lots of cash until you are sure plus get some expert tuition as well as making new friends with similar interests. have a look at the International Concertina Association for links to concertina clubs or do some on-line searching. All the best with your quest. Mike
  20. Hi Daniel, I echo Robin and Andrew above, I too am a member of SqueezEast but also a past squire of Kemp's Men, so if you would like to dance or play for the Morris in Norwich as well as join our little concertina band after your move please do get in touch. Mike
  21. I have taken my 'tinas to Germany and France several times to folk dance festivals. I get 30 days cover on my house contents insurance that lets me do this as long as I am not a professional musician, likewise for the SqueezEast Concertina Band and the value of individual items is less than £5000. IT is a premium contents cover though and costs a bit more than standard. It may pay to make some enquiries. Mike
  22. Hi Lynne, I gather from Andrew, another member of SE when we had a practice today that you have been in touch with SqueezEast and we are looking forward to seeing you and giving what help we can. Rob is also a member of SE albeit currently in absentia so, like myself, may be biased towards our little group, and it may turn out that you know more then one of us anyway. Mike
  23. Hi Lynne, Why not come along to SqueezEast Concertinas, look at our Web pages http://www.squeezeast.org.ukor Facebook https://www.facebook.com/SqueezEast-Concertinas-1564910423765753/ for more information. Several of our members live near KL and we practice in one of our homes to the West of Norwich usually about monthly, which is only 45 mins or so from KL. Several members play Anglos and are prepared to tutor as well, indeed one of our objectives is to promote and teach concertina playing of all types. Inability to read music is not a problem, You will be very welcome. Mike
  24. Hi Robin, My Lachenal also squeaked, after much searching it turned out to be two locating pegs on the bottom of two keys, rubbing against the side of the holes they locate into in the action board. A little beeswax on the peg and a slight adjustment of the key location on its brass pivot lever solved the problem. On the matter of Bushing, Dave Robertson here in Norwich bushed mine and it is noticeably better, quieter and smoother in action so I can recommend bushing. At the moment I am practicing drilling, reaming and bushing so I can do my other Lachenals, but feel I am not skillful enough yet to take the plunge in case I ruin what I have, so I can't recommend a DIY approach. All the best Mike
  25. I went over to see David this afternoon, David kindly unpacked it for me and I was able to have a good play. Your box is very nice, plays well but sounds too close to my own rosewood ended Lachenal of the same age (only 3000 difference in numbers) and I was looking for something louder and with a bit more "attack" to mix it with the Wheatstone ECs and the Jefferies and Wheatstone Anglos in our local concertina band. I hoped your metal ended Lachenal would be it. The extra buttons are potentially useful though. However, I have decided not to buy, sorry, but I am sure you will have no trouble selling it. Mike
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