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Frank Edgley

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Everything posted by Frank Edgley

  1. Tooling leather is used. It is a tough cow hide. It will need to be dyed and a finish applied. Thicker leather certainly last longer, but is stiff and not comfortable. Thinner leather is much more comfortable, and lasts long enough. I have been playing my Heritage concertina for 5 or 6 years and have years to go before they are worn out, and they are very comfortable, allowing for easy movement of the hands. If you want to get a bit fancier, there are tools you can get from Tandy leather which will allow you to customise your leather. Just dampen the leather before tooling and let dry before dying and finishing. Another thing..... you must determine the grain of the leather. One direction stretches more than the other. If you cut the leather going the wrong direction your straps will stretch.
  2. What other instruments? It wouldn't work well if playing with equal tempered instruments. Good with fiddle.
  3. I would follow Dave's advice. Did you confirm the note was flat eith a tuner? It could well be the fiddler.
  4. Things to find out..... (1) how badly are the reedpans warped? ...(2) Are the action boards warped as well or do the have cracks in them? ...(3) In what shape are the bellows gaskets. If the reedpans fit into the bellows frames, they will certainly nned shimming, but if the tops of the gaskets are worn out, allowing leaks between the body and bellows they should also be replaced. At least, thewooden grills are intact.
  5. You definitely need a new bellows. No amount of fixing can repair that one.
  6. Replace the valve. Likely it has taken on a curve and is not sitting flat, requiring more pressure to pull it down to the surface of the reed pan. You probably should replace them all.
  7. See if you can get "SYAKU" tuning program online. No, twanging would not be accurate.
  8. Lachenals are notorious for their noisy mechanisms. It could be one of several reasons. It could be that if the bushing is missing from the hole in the button, it may cause a click. If the mechanism is raising too high it may be that the mechanism id hitting the inside of the wooden grill. If the bushings under the button is missing, it would cause a click. If there is insufficient strength from the spring, it may cause the lever itself to cause a click with the fulcrum, as the lever would lose contact with the fulcrum momentarily and when the arm reingages with the fulcrum there will be a click.
  9. I have acquired for sale a handsome C/G Wheatstone concertina, made by Frank Edgley Concertinas Ltd. The body of this instrument is Southern Australian Eucalyptus Burl, with rosewood trim. This is a beautiful wood, similar to and related to amboyna. You can check it out on my blog http://edgleyconcertinas.blogspot.com. It is in very good condition and is an excellent player. It has very fast and quiet action and has a beautiful tone. Please contact me by text at 519-991-3100 or fedgley@cogeco.ca . This instrument has been well cared for. The owner has developed physical problems which make playing impossible. Otherwise it would not be for sale.
  10. Perhaps it is louder because the pad is opening higher.....possibly (I don't know because I can't see it) the stronger spring is messing with the fulcrum post. Try a different safety pin...perhaps one of brass. or reduce the strength by holding the coil using needle0nose pliers and bending the arms.
  11. With leather that old, it may be dried out. More playing may lead to disintegration of the leather, especially in the middle east. I would think something to rejuvenate the leather should be used before damage is done.
  12. If the leather is beginning to crumble, it will probably continue to do so.....a losing battle, most likely.
  13. I would definitelay agree that it sounds like a bushing problem. Try (1) Removing the grill to get access to the bushing board; (2) Insert the pointed end of a pencil into the bushing, and work it around a bit; (3) Perhaps even put a bit of the graphite from the pencil "lead" onto the inside surface of the bushing; (4) Reassemble. That should do it.
  14. Before purchasing a Stagi, I would ask others who have (or have had) one.
  15. Just as Wolf says...doable but not as easy as you describe.
  16. Air is probably not going though the reed as designed. I have found that Lachenal instruments usually have warped action boards allowing air to escape over dividers of the reed pan. Also reed pan may not fit snug allowing air inefficiency. Air bypasses reed by going through gap instead of reed.
  17. It's possible that it didn't make as much of a difference as originally thought, or perhaps the extra time/expense did not warrant it. It could have been a reason to charge more, and was sold as an "upgrade." Neither Dippers I have owned in the past had them, but then, I have never seen an anglo with this feature, either.
  18. Are they necessary.....? Yes, if you want the pad to seal properly, in the event that the button is not absolutely perpendicular when the pad is glued on. The provide just a bit of flexibility so that you have a greater chance of success with all your pads being airtight. Can you do the job without them? Yes, if you are very careful, and a bit lucky, and your pads have enough padding and your spring tension sufficient to compress the pad(s) to form a good seal.
  19. If the note sounds continually, you need to open up the concertina and see what the cause is.....It will involve the pad in some way. ....or possible the fulcrum coming loose and rising. Once you see what's happening, it shouldn't be too difficult to come up with a solution to the problem. One word of advice to inexperienced repair persons: Never do anything which cannot be undone.
  20. Not being really familiar with the Ceili, I could only guess. Is the valve closing properly? Is the wax seal for the reed intact?
  21. You have to be very careful. Bending the levers is tricky and may result in breakage.....not a good thing. How many felt rings are under your buttons? If two, you could remove one. Are the pads really too thick? as long as they raise up 1/4 inch to let the sound out, when the button is depressed, you may be alright.
  22. As far as I know, you have never been able to walk into a music store and find decent quality concertinas, although you may have been able to find cheap instruments, little better than toys. There are probably more makers than there have been in history, although some do not make many on a yearly basis. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Crabb family, a very well-known maker, averaged less than 20 per year over their 100 year existence. Now there are makers in England, Canada (me), USA, Germany, Australia, and Ireland. Some use Italian-style reeds and some English-style, and one or two make both types.
  23. Personally, I am not terribly enthusiastic. I tried a concertina like this...do no agree about tone. My comparison is with bagpipe drones and chanters. No top level pipers (to my knowledge) play plastic drones although they are available. Top solo players use wood also. ( jokes about bagpipes here will show lack of knowledge or you've been listening to "beer & pretzel" i.e. not really serious, bands and soloists.
  24. You might try a dab of rubber cement applied with a toothpick instead of a paper shim. It will not cause any difficulty to remove the reed when needed; will not cause buzzing as it compresses infinitely; and is not permanent. i.e. it does not form a permanent bond to the wood and can easily be wiped or rubbed off at any time in the future.
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