Richard Morse

Most certainly. After the Hayden, we'll be using our knowledge gained and new reeds for an upscale English tenor (48-key, 6 1/4" hex), then an upscale anglo (both metal and wood ended models), then maybe a softer-voiced English (not steel reeded but more durable than brass) for singers, and an extended range Hayden....

We are expecting our Hayden to have 56 keys though it's possible that there may be a couple more depending on how we can squeeze them in. Our goal is to produce a very high quality, fast and supple box that will play in Bb (identically fingered in addition to the "standard" keys of C,D,E,F,G,A) and be fully chromatic to top out at the E (above "high" D) while keeping the size as small and box as light as practical. We expect that our Hayden will retail for between $2500 and $3000. I've been burned on time estimates for so long now I'll just have to say that they'll be ready when they're ready. Based on our prototype-to-production timing of our last two models, I would say that we should be able to produce our Haydens around 6 to 8 months after we get our reed machinist on line. Keep in mind that even though I have high hopes for the current guy, we've spent considerable time with each of about 15 machinists (that didn't work out) since last December.... Once we know that all our ducks are in line, and only then, will we be begin taking orders. OTOH, we do have a wish list for our Haydens which is currently several dozen people long. This differs from an order or pre-order list in that we do not take a deposit and those people are not under any obligation to buy anything. The Hayden wish list is just a notification device so that they will be the first to be notified when we will be accepting orders. Once we do start producing, we estimate that we should be able to produce about 50 Haydens in the first year. So if only half the Wish List folks get a jump on orders before you do, your Morse Hayden delivery may be something like a year and a half away. We do not have an "upgrade" buy-back program. Any instruments we purchase (outright or in value toward another purchase either originating from us or another outlet/maker) is done at market value - not original purchase price. We DO have a full-price "returns" policy for a set period after a sale (which is a different situation than what you are asking). Actually, there isn't much "equal" between the Morse and Marcus Haydens, so there will be an appreciable reason for folks to gravitate toward one or the other. They are quite different boxes. Rather than advantages, I would say that they each have differing features? The Marcus seems to have greater range (65 keys - starts about 1/2 octave lower), more overlap (1 1/3 octaves), and more enharmonic duplicates (allowing reasonable Eb functionality) than our Hayden. I don't know what type of reeds they have or how much they are/will be selling for. Our Morse will be somewhat smaller and lighter, will have raised wood ends, and have real concertina reeds. It will be a substantial step up in quality from our current models.

My avatar is also a grotesque, a photo taken by a friend during a sight-seeing tour of one of the Vanderbilt's mansions. Each window is adorned with a different grotesque. I had used the photo as a basis for last year's Squeeze-in graphic by cropping and adjusting parts. Here's a copy of the original photo.

After an anglo or melodeon pattern?

I would think that the quality of your test sound would be quite influenced by the sound card and speakers of one's computer - which could make things quite indiscernible. As we get into some pre-Squeeze-In planning here, we've had enough people comment/query on the tonal characteristic differences between concertina/accordion reeds that one of our mini-events this year will be a blind testing of several concertinas with audience evaluation. We'd be pleased to have one of your boxes partake!

That's what "null vote" means -- if you click that button, you're essentially abstaining. Evidently this is by design: If you peek at the results first, you forfeit your vote. As I recall, this was made more-or-less clear in some additional wording that appeared on the same screen as the "View results (null vote)" button. This sounds like what happened to me. I don't remember anything explaining that I would forfeit my vote by looking at the results first however, so either I spaced on that information or it was not clear. Of course there doesn't seem to be any way for me to look at that information now that I've already "voted", yet in reality I hadn't. Poor poll design.... The instructions and results of intended actions should have been made clearer. Maybe Paul can improve things there? It's too bad that people like David and I are effectively kept for adding our experiences to the poll.

I or we (The Button Box) can be nanny but I'll let a less-involved person do the proselytizing (though it would be a good idea for you to make some business cards and brochures available). There's a "music room" at the event which is devoted to sales and displays (our wares, other makers, participants stuff, show-and-tell museum, chachkas and curiosities, etc. A great place for folks to check boxes out.

Gussets are usually edge-skived with the central part remaining thicker. There are typically several types of leather used for bellows as the various parts have differing requirements. The gussets need to be very supple, stretchy and airtight; the hinges need to be strong and supple but not stretchy; the top runs have to be extremely durable (particularly abrasion proof) yet somewhat stretchy; the butterflies or trapezoids need to be thin, good-looking and preferably inexpensive.... No one leather type will suffice for 2 or 3 of those applications (let alone all of them). Each also requires certain thicknesses and skiving patterns. Most of these applications (except the cost issue) can be resolved by using the various parts of certain goat skins (such as the shoulder areas are the densest and most durable which do well for top runs). The type of tanning process will also have a big effect on the flexibility, durability and gluability of the skins. Also - the types of glue are quite important as well. Hmmm... not to mention a bellows jig though I've seen decent bellows made with a bellows stick. I suggest that you make at least one trial bellows before you attach anything to your good bellows frame. The best of luck with your project!

Sorry not to have been more exacting about my post.... Pictured is my SD Wheatstone Hayden, not one of our upcoming Morse Haydens. We're still hung up on finding a shop to mass produce our reeds though I'm very hopeful of the current one we're working with.

Interesting results though when I added my "vote" under the tabulation was "you have already voted in this poll" This is confusing. This was the first time I voted, so why should I get that notice? Did it mean that my vote wasn't counted? It should have said something like "Thank you for your vote" or Your vote has been included in the above results" .

I got my Wheatstone Hayden number 60075 from SD in 1985 which by extrapolation with John's puts yours about 1987?

Right.... forgot the attachment....

And here's one of me and my Hayden....

What about having it visit the Northeast Squeeze-In next month ? Or how about you coming up and taking part of this revelry? Bring armloads of your boxes. We encourage participant and other dealer sales.

This link is incredibly helpful yet incredibly hard to find. It should be included in the "help" information (I can't seem to find it there), though preferably as another link at the top of each page (right by the "help" link). Maybe call it icons?

Maybe for concertina only players, but a breeze for melodeon players.... I've always thought that having the center row be G and handrest row be D would be a much more accessible design, especially if laid out like a button accordion: Button Accordion: G/A, B/C, D/E, G/F#, B/A, Angle Concertina: G/F#, B/A, D/C, G/E, B/F# Of course, I play button accordion and so am a bit biased, but then again - I really find fingering the octave much easier when it falls completely under my four fingers rather than have to break out with my pinky to grab that 5th button. The inner D row could be set up like a BA too with the same layout which makes cross playing much easier than the typical anglo setup (IMHO). At any rate, it's easy to try before you buy. Just borrow a standard BA and see what you think. Pretend that the buttons 3-7 are your concertina's buttons 1-5.

Doug (manager of the Button Box) has an A/E concertina which sounds great and is fun to play though he doesn't trot it out much as he's more of a button accordion player.

Yes, it would be nice to have more explanation as to what will happen to which input when you sign-in to become a member of this forum. I made the same mistake you did and contacted Paul about changing my screen name (username, whatever). It can be done, but not by a user. Only a sysop can change a username, and he did change mine for me. So if you want yours changed you'll have to ask him to do it rather than ask if it can be done.

Now that I've been getting the hang of this new snazzy format I feel comfortable in saying that I prefer the old one better. Information and ease of use are at the top of my list for which the old format excelled with its threading format and posting links changing colors once I viewed them. The two nice things I like about this new format is the ability to do pictures and the calendar function, though both can managed by links from the old format. Is there some way to improve the old one to include pics and add a calendar component to concertina.net? I still don't understand what a lot of the stuff on the new format means. What does the ipb button mean/do? The several types of envelopes? The crumbs are good only for the main general forums (or am I missing something?). The difference between Guided and Normal modes?

That's just it: I don't know how to try it and would like to do so. As I just did.... I was wondering if the "Quote" feature would quote both previous entries as well as being editable -- and it does! Very nice! Ah, but with unexpected results. I wonder how many nested quotes are possible before things get squeezed out of existance?

That's just it: I don't know how to try it and would like to do so. As I just did.... I was wondering if the "Quote" feature would quote both previous entries as well as being editable -- and it does! Very nice!

I also wonder if or how this new format threads things. The old one would indent for each new thread and run long with responses which made things easy to jump to and follow. Does this new format have something similar?

I'm looking for volunteers, someones to act as point persons to: 1. Instigate and coordinate this happening (contact the makers and interface with the other folks involved). 2. Create a list of physical attributes (like type of ends, button size and spacing from handrest, etc.). 3. Create a list of the more subjective qualities. 4. Photo taker to record the event. 5. Compiler person to crunch all the aboves. 6. Presenter person to put up the results to some web site. I figure that the concertina makers can fill out the substantive stuff beforehand and folks at the S-I can pen in their subjectives when they view and play them. Only volunteer #4 needs be at the event, the others would be nice, but need not be present to participate. Don't be shy to volunteer for multiple slots! While I don't think there will be any problems with any maker helping out with this, I'm not going to be able to devote much time due to my invovement with dealing with the S-I event itself. Still, I'd be up for taking the photos (or let some other person use my camera to) if no one else steps forward for that slot. We can also use the Button Box web server space to post results though I think it would be more PC to have the ICA or Chris Timson host the results..... There's also the possibility of having this happening at Witney (as well or in lieu of the S-I). Any suggestions/thoughts on this? The S-I is only 4 weeks away - maybe too soon to get this all together?