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About eskin

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    Heavyweight Boxer

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  • Interests
    Traditional Irish Music
    Anglo Concertina
    Uilleann Pipes
  • Location
    San Diego, CA

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  1. No, you don’t necessarily need the JamBlaster. If your built-in audio system is sufficiently low latency it will work, or you can use probably any external USB audio interface. I’ve been having sessions successfully with several players on JamKazam and none of us have a JamBlaster.
  2. I’ve recently played this instrument, after Steve got it and before he got the Jeffries. It’s a lovely and easy to play instrument. I think it’s an excellent instrument for someone looking for one with concertina reeds at a reasonable price. Nicely restored and ready to play.
  3. I don’t agree with the fundamental premise of this discussion, at least with regards to playing ITM tunes on the Anglo. I start on pull as often as push, just depends on the tune.
  4. I'm now the proud owner of Tom Lawrence's A/E. It's still an absolute gem.
  5. I'm looking for a nice A/E tuned Anglo to play along with Uilleann pipes tuned in B. I believe Frank Edgley made a few of these, anyone possibly have one for sale?
  6. Uh, this: http://www.tradlessons.com/MIDIHayden.html hooked up to my “Celtic Sounds” sound module: Celtic Sounds MIDI Module by Michael Eskin https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/celtic-sounds-midi-module/id1403026032?mt=8 :-)
  7. I would expect the anchoring requirement for English would be complete different and unrelated to Anglo. My comments/suggetstions only apply to Anglo played in the Irish style.
  8. Playing some tunes last night, I was thinking about this thread. For the majority of trad Irish tunes I’m using primarily two fingers on the right side but all four fingers all the time on the left side. It makes sense to me to have the most stability on the side that does most of the work.
  9. I think it’s because with his scale patterns the majority of notes used in Irish traditional tunes are played on the left side, combined with the air button being on the right. I’ll have to ask him next time I see him.
  10. I've played Anglo for about 12 years now, based on Noel's methodology after attending his workshops several times from the very start of learning the instrument. I'm a left-side anchor, right side "bow hand" player, with one of the instrument left side corner points on the inside of my left leg. One enhancement I've made on his left side anchoring, and probably related to that I also play the Uilleann pipes where we use a leather "popping strap" on the leg to seal the bottom of the chanter, is to use a piece of leather on my left leg (about 8" square) to keep the left side from sliding around on my pants. I don't know why everyone doesn't do this. It absolutely keeps the instrument from slipping around and is very comfortable. With the leather square in place, I can remove my left hand from the instrument and it will not move on a push. The goal is to absolutely minimize the tension and energy in the left arm that one might waste stabilizing the instrument. I find it allows me greater accuracy and speed on the left side as well. It's also a lot more comfortable to use the leather if you're wearing shorts. I handed out a bunch of these a few years ago to the other students at Noel's West Coast workshop. All the rhythm and dynamics are done with my right arm. The only energy in my left arm is stabilizing the instrument on a pull. I also use my right little finger against the right side (something else I see Noel do at times and that he recommended to me) to provide additional right side stability to insure symmetrical and parallel bellows pushes without rotation about the right side center axis if unstabilized. Without the pinky stabilization, it's very easy to have the top of the bellows tilt in on a push as a result of the right thumb energy against the hand rail while the bottom which is unsupported tilts out. The two motions end up canceling each other out, essentially creating a zero pressure change for a fraction of a second and result in slower and less efficient and precise playing. I spent a lot of time working with Noel on fixing this early defect in my technique. I have some early videos on YouTube of tunes I posted before I fixed this issue in later workshops with Noel, it's almost embarrassing now to watch them, the top tilt on push was so bad. Additionally, if you watch Noel's playing in detail from many angles, you will also see that he puts a little inside bow in the bellows which provides additional stability and efficiency, along with almost a lifting motion when closing the bellows. Think of a Slinky (i.e. an instrument with very supple bellows). If you hold it straight across with no bend it will just sag and wobble unpredictably when pressed or pulled. Put the tiniest bit of a bow in the arc of the Slinky and now it moves much more predictably and with total control. I'm a huge advocate for Noel's playing methodology and ergonomics, they absolutely work for me. Everything he does, he does for a reason and, if you ask, he will tell you exactly why. Everything is about control and precision, and having a solid platform and absolutely rock-steady and predictable bellows motion is critical to play quickly and accurately. Now, could this all be done with right side anchoring? I don't know. Noel's techniques and ergonomic choices work well for me so that's what I advocate and teach.
  11. I think a screen protector modified with holes for the buttons the would be your best option for providing tactile feedback..
  12. Regarding the hitting wrong buttons, an enthusiastic fan of my Chromatic Accordion MIDI controller app made an clear overlay for his iPad with holes cut out for the buttons. He's able to play quite reliably without constantly looking at the iPad this way, it's pretty amazing.
  13. Anyone with an iPad who plays Hayden layout concertina interested in doing a demo video of my new Hayden-based MIDI controller for the iPad? In exchange I will give you a free copy of the app and gift you a copy of the Roland Sound Canvas iOS app. I don't play the the Hayden system and any demo I try to do will be pretty simplistic. You need to have a relatively recent iPad running iOS 10.0 or later.
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