Jump to content

colledge

Members
  • Posts

    27
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by colledge

  1. colledge

    Use Tax

    The person at the IL dept of Revenue basically confirmed what Ross said. Because Dipper is in the business of making concertinas its a tangible item that I bought for use in Illinois, I owe the tax. I'm gonna read the statute, but it seems they justify the tax on the grounds that you hurt the state and it's retailers by living here and going out of state to buy, but they don't have an exemption if you can't get the item in state. Why would these geniuses do a silly thing like that?
  2. colledge

    Use Tax

    Thanks Moira, that looks good and correctly describes C&R Dipper. Dave, its a tax imposed on you for buying something out of state to avoid sales tax, by proving to you that you bought it, could have bought it in state, and essentially charging you the sales tax anyway to protect in state retailers.
  3. colledge

    Use Tax

    I thought I'd share this here, since it involves buying. 1 year ago my name finally came up and I finally received my long awaited Dipper Clare. A beautiful 33 button gem of marbled ebony. The sibling of this instrument http://comhaltas.ie/music/detail/comhaltaslive_380_7_mairead_corridan_plays_the_lone_bush/ Its a beauty. To say it was worth the wait would be difficult. They should do before and after photos of how much hair you have when you order a Dipper and when you get it, but I had one chance for something of this magnitude. Anyway I just received a notice from the Illinois Dept. of Revenue that they will be auditing this purchase to make sure I don't owe Use tax. Has anyone gotten this from their state due to the expensive nature of concertinas? I think its exempt and only applies to retailers. They want me to send them all of these documents and do their job for them. Maybe I'll call but this is annoying.
  4. Sorry I commented before reading the other thread. Not trying to stir up another emotional discussion. I'm very undisciplined on this forum for some reason.
  5. Why don't you just say that you backed out of the sale because someone else offered you more money for the item? Isn't that what really happened and it went into your spam? If you put it out there for the highest offer, and the transaction wasn't complete, I suppose it would be prudent to tell the person you agreed to sell to that they are invited to match the higher offers. Ultimately, I think you have a right to seek the highest price people will pay.
  6. Great intermediate concertina. Ordered in 1998. Delivered in 2000. Upgraded in 2006. Last tuned in 2009, all by H Herrington. I've played it at sessions regularly since getting it. Comparable to an Edgley, great tone and action. The size is a tiny bit smaller than the last Edgley I saw. Wood case included. Asking $1100 PM me if interested short vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zoQMBrDiMs
  7. Do you really think that a Dipper County Clare is in the same category as a Stradavarius? -- Relatively speaking, of course I do. I agree, and will add that in the scope of time that spans centuries, violins that are up to 150 years age difference are compared to each other. So in 2210, comparing an 1895 Jeffries with a 1995 Dipper could be likely, but Dipper's superior quality and artistry will be evident. A Jeffries would be close, but more like an Amati.
  8. I don't recall a new Dipper, from the source, ever being that high. Am I wrong? I thought it was more like £3-4000, depending on what you're getting. which makes this analogy very confusing, relative to this persons sale.
  9. Sorry Azalin, my bad. She's in US.
  10. If she's asking for an offer of US$10,000, I would think that conversion to anything else would be her problem. Meg, I'm sure the folks who low balled you are simply checking to see how badly you need to sell and how low you'll go, likely because they will attempt to turn a profit. There's nothing wrong with telling you to take it or leave it. If it's not enough just leave it. I hope you get $10,000 for it. It's beautiful, unique, and probably not the kind you could get them to make anymore. It looks like a modern relic. Even if you really need the money, I wouldn't go below US$8,000
  11. Um, I was referring the unique size, which he doesn't specify on his website, and may be a new model. I knew about the instruments.
  12. I played a really nice Thomas concertina here in Chicago the other day. It was small, maybe 51/2 inches. 31 buttons. Crisp, fast and loud. Wish I knew about them a few years ago
  13. I would think that a concertina w/ concertina reeds, in good playing condition just wouldn't be the cost as a hydrid, which is more what you get for $2000. So, a Wheatstone, early or late, those all have concertina reeds. I think I saw a later out on the internet market recently, but it was that cheap. I recommend the Tedrow Zephyr.
  14. The kit is a hybrid isn't it? It has accordion reeds?
  15. Sean, I couldn't get along without a B flat (A#) on the right hand accidental row but I see that you don't have one in yours as written above. There are several tunes that I play that are in the key of F and that B flat on that right accidental row is indispensable when it comes to playing them. Steve Thanks. I actually thought that myself so I changed The G#/G on mine map, to a G#/ A# and moved the G pull down to the bottom row extra pull, right next to the G push. That's probably better there as well. I did this of course because I think I need the button, but I don't really go looking for it very much.
  16. Because someone is trying to 'sell' a bad idea ;-) What are you talking about?
  17. Thanks Geraghty. BTW I saw the pic of that Dipper that you once posted, and it was nothing but a tease. If you ever can, love to see more angles. sean
  18. Sorry I put this topic in the wrong place. I tried to move it but I don't know how
  19. Greetings I previously posted a radical idea for a 34 button keyboard, but am also trying to decide what extras I would want with a more conventional / modified Jeffries keyboard. The one on my Herrington has a standard Jeffries accidental row, but with a new one I would go with this E/F A/A# C#/D# A/G G#/A# --- C#/C# F#/D# G#/G C#/D# A/D after learning that the F# on the right hand side of this one is a low one, I realized that you can do so much with that for ornaments in Em as well as playing in D. As an ITM player who could do fine with 30 buttons, the one that would be available the soonest is a 34 button. Even though I have a few ideas of my own, I'm falling short of filling all of those extras with guaranteed useful notes. Are there any 34 button players out there who'll share with me what their extras are? Even if you don't, all ideas welcome Thanks sean
  20. Presumably, Clare fiddlers were playing with Clare concertina players (unless they sat about in opposite corners scowling at each other), so I would think that the two would not be horribly wrong together. And nobody else in the country? Clare style concertina playing is not necessarily played strictly up and down rows, maybe some in C or G, but everything else has to be done cross rows doesn't it? Since nothing else has its own row? I don't hear Elizabeth Crotty playing everything up and down the rows. Maybe you should start a thread about it and see if someone wants to debate you about it.
  21. I'm confused. I thought the Clare style was developed on 20 button C/G instruments that did play along the rows. The Clare style of fiddling certainly didn't One more thing. Because of the mistake with the B, now that it's a Bb, I don't need the B2 on Button L1, so I can make that my D3. I'm so glad I shared this. These were important errors. sean
  22. Ok I've revised it. The G#4/A#4 was supposed to be G#5/A#5. That was the intention. I just wrote it wrong. Also the B on the top row was indeed supposed to be Bb. Larry. Though it seems like a lot of C#'s. I believe 2 is needed on the right side, but having one on the left, along with the F row on top adds options for playing in the Key of A. Try it. sean
  23. The benefit is that, between use of the buttons and the bellows, that system fits best with the rhythmic structure of ITM and the way other instruments execute those rhythms as well, particularly the pipes and fiddle. Imagine a Clare style fiddler playing a jig or reel in C or G, with all of the bowings, slurs and ornaments associated with Clare style, playing with a concertina player who is just honking away going up and down the same row like a harmonica, change of bellows for every note and no regard for what the fiddler is doing. Now imagine the same thing with a concertina player who is making full use of the keyboard to match the bellows with the slurs or rhythmic changes in bow direction and ornaments. Its night and day.
  24. David, I don't know what harmonic style it. Why not transpose your idea one step up and have a G/D/A ? Because, if you read the thread about playing across the rows (noel Hill). I play that way. Doing that wouldn't make much sense, and I'm starting to think that you'd have to play that way to understand the benefits of this.
  25. Thanks for the replies. The instrument isn't built, I'm just thinking about what I want to do. When I say that it would be an adjustment anyway from a 30 to a 34, I'm referring to the fact that you'll naturally change some things to make use of your expanded options. I guess there are a lot of C#s on there. The ones on the right are self explanatory, but maybe I'll take a second look at whether I need that one on the left C#4 and C#6, D#4, A#5, F#6. I just don't ever use them. Yes is is supposed to be a Bb. Thanks for pointing out that error, and I'll check out the D3 thread. Sean
×
×
  • Create New...