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    Shropshire, England

Lleanne's Achievements


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  1. Hi Roger, Do you have a sum in mind or are you looking for offers? thanks Lleanne
  2. Thanks Simon, That's really interesting & you're absolutely right - I've just been playing around with the tuner at the various bellows pressures, and with just a thin thread of sound, the notes (especially the particularly troublesome ones) are right on pitch. But they go flat quite swiftly, as the pressure increases. It doesn't seem to be a gradual curve - it flattens & then stays at about the same pitch. This ties in with my noticing that I sound flat, heard against other boxes. I tend to play really loudly, just to be able to hear myself. Lleanne
  3. Thanks for the helpful reply... I'll take a look at the threads on meantone & temperament. It's a G/C anglo, but most tunes I need to play seem to be in D! So perhaps that's not helping. Yes, it sounds fairly ok to me played by itself, but the lower notes are distinctly flat when played alongside an accordion. The amount of pressure applied doesn't seem to alter the sound of most of the reeds - not like back in my recorder playing days, when more air would 'up' the pitch. So I'm surprised by Patrick's post, saying that his instrument gets sharper with more volume - mine doesn't. Lleanne
  4. Hi I can't find the answer to this question on the forum... which is, Using a chromatic tuner, what sort of deviation is detectable? Or should I be looking for all the notes to be 'dead on'? My C row is pretty well perfect, but a few of the reeds on the LH G row of my Anglo are about 2 (whatever the tuner is calibrated in!) flat, which I don't notice playing by myself. But I need to play with other people. Should I be getting this fixed, or isn't this a significant deviation? Thanks! Lleanne
  5. Thanks... there's just the one pillar, & is still there, and I was just looking at it - it clearly has the remains of a spacer (card?) glued on the top, but there's little there now, other than the glue. I'll see if there's room for a new spacer to prevent the movement getting any worse - but I'd think that the fretwork is bent irrepareably. Its' not a huge bend, say 1mm ish? (hard to measure). The fretwork is terribly delicate - clearly wasn't designed to last over 100 years... Lleanne
  6. I'm wondering how best to deal with reducing button height... It's the LH buttons of my lachenal (anglo) the G row. The instrument is 110 years old, and the LH wooden end plate seems to have bent in a bit, over time, I guess with years of use? (the ends are really thin fretwork, not the thick mahogany ends). The buttons are standing too high - I'm only talking about a reduction of between 1 - 2 mm, but it would make a huge difference to the playability. (The buttons are quite narrow, about 5.5mm dia., I don't know if this is relevant, but it does make hitting the correct button more of a precise art). So do I try bending the arms, bearing in mind that they are made of flat metal and may not want to bend? Or could one add an additional small dot (of card or leather) to the back of the pads? I feel that the latter may be more 'reversible'. The current pads are new ones, from Dave L. Is this end-plate dipping common with instruments of this age? Any advice? many thanks Lleanne
  7. Thanks Greg! I won't be using that, then. Lleanne
  8. I was planning on using some saddle soap (which is actually nothing to do with soap, it is a glycerine block) which is the traditional treatment for leather, I'd think that would be ok (unless anyone knows better?). Lleanne
  9. More questions (sorry) That .025 - is this a thickness in mm? I seem to need springs which are left handed, but which are wound up from left to right, as the right-to-left ones catch on the pivot post... may be easier to make them from scratch, rather than re-working bought ones. So, where would I get the phosphor bronze wire from? Thanks! Lleanne
  10. Thanks very much Chris, That's really useful & gives me a measure I can use... Off I go to convert grams to ounces. Lleanne
  11. Thanks Chris - Trying out the instrument this morning, the replaced springs are still too strong. I'll do what you suggest & pre-load them a bit. This instrument has small buttons and they really hurt the fingers if the pressure isn't right (as the post above - it's nice to hear that i'm not just being a wimp) - my other instrument has bigger buttons & they are much more forgiving. It's all a bit of a learning process - I'd put it in the hands of a repairer if there was one close! I'll see how I get on. Thanks Lleanne
  12. I didn't know there was a choice... it's amazing that anyone could have played it at all, as it was (or still is, in the main - I've only tackled a few springs). A light action would make a huge difference. I'll carry on tinkering a bit more. It's do a couple of springs, then put it back together, to make sure the pads don't leak... L
  13. Thanks Greg, That could be it (the stronger springing to cure a pad issue)... as an amateur tinkerer one doesn't know what's 'normal'. I think I may put the instrument in the hands of a proper repairer! Lleanne
  14. Hi I've just aquired a new concertina (well, new to me, anyway) and about half of the buttons are impossibly stiff. For me to use, anyway. Opening it up, the wire used for most of the springs seems very thick - there appear to be a couple of (what I assume are) 'older' springs left, which are much closer in guage to the springs supplied by Davis Leese. The rest are thick, although they look like springs made for the job. Is this usual? The box has been repaired in the last 50 years (judging by the biro markings). I know there are different opinions on what is the ideal button pressure - but this seems unplayable to me. Anyone any comments? Many thanks, Lleanne
  15. You were right Theo, I can't get my wire to anything like the right shape... will have to go for Plan B. Will see if David Leese has a reclaimed part. Thanks for all the help, regards Lleanne
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