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Lofty

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Posts posted by Lofty

  1. On 4/25/2022 at 8:28 PM, Gaspar said:

    wow! so close to this concertina! 

    Yous appears to have been made on October 25, 1920. And it is a 56 keys tenor-treble right?

    It also shares the same description S.V and W.S. Do you know what those mean? thank you!

     

    Mine is actually a 56 key extended treble, so has some very high notes above the normal range. A tenor-treble version would be nice…..

  2. On 5/12/2021 at 4:09 PM, paaudio said:

     2) I haven't worked out a system (that doesn't include velcro glued to my box(es)) which won't compromise the woodwork surface of my boxes.

     

    You could use non-adhesive sew-on Velcro and stitch it through the holes in the woodwork. 

  3. My current single acting Wheatstone bass has a large number of holes with valves in the bellows. I call them gills.

     

    A previous one (by Lachenal) had a few holes with valves in the ends, I think in the action boards. It was a long time ago: I don’t think it had conventional reed pans which pulled out, as in smaller instruments.

     

    The Wheatstone with the gills is a vastly superior instrument to the Lachenal.

  4. Whereabouts do you live?
     

    I have a 69 button (plus air) ebony ended Aeola for sale.
     

    The right hand starts from the G below middle C. in my view, this is preferable as it provides a better usable range before getting into the squeaky high notes that don’t fit the McCann pattern. The left hand goes from a low F to the C above middle C.

     

    Steve

    C93E234B-7F0B-4813-BF37-2AF8C9949181.jpeg

  5. 3 hours ago, Azalin said:

     

    Yeah, would make a good joke. "Have you heard of the guy who contacted Colin 10 years ago and finally got an answer? He was shocked by such a quick response!" ?

    I contacted Colin a long time ago (20 years or so) about a replacement for a bass concertina reed which had broken.

     

    I had a replacement within a week.

     

    Not many people would be able to do that or provide that level of service.

     

    I won’t hear a word against him.

     

    Steve

    • Like 1
  6. Put a finger through the hole in the reed pan and pull firmly. It should come out but might be a tight fit. As already said, putting your finger through towards the smaller area of the reed pan might help.

     

    Before looking for complicated/difficult solutions, check that the reed frame hasn’t become loose in its slot. Just pushing it back into place might do the job. If the problem recurs with the same reed, a very thin paper shim (cigarette papers are good) at the wide end of the reed frame should help it to stay in place. Don’t shim the middle of the reed frame as this might bend it inwards, thus touching the reed.

     

    Steve

  7. Definitely try before you buy if you can, based on my experience.

     

    I have owned English system Edeophones and never really liked them. I wasn't happy with the tone, volume, responsiveness. I used them as “reserves”, but sold them eventually.

     

    Against my experience (and my advice above!) I bought a small (46 button) MacCann Edeophone without trying it. I think it’s a great instrument: fast, responsive, loud, great tone etc. It was meant as a smaller, lighter, alternative to my large (69 button) MacCann Aeola but I prefer playing it, despite its limited range. I wish I had a large Edeophone which was as good as the small one as well!

     

    Steve

  8. 12 hours ago, Syncopepper said:

    several metal-ended Aeolas

    I agree with what Geoff said earlier. If you can, try a Wheatstone Model 22 or 24. I find Aeolas to be quite “polite” tonally, on the whole. Model 22s or 24s can sound significantly more “pushy”.

     

    Steve

  9. Colin Dipper tuned my Wheatstone Model 24 in 1994. It has been played a lot since then and its tuning is still excellent. I recently looked at the set of a few reeds which needed a bit more pressure than others to start sounding and that is much better now.

     

    I think it’s probably not the reeds: more likely to be valves or reed shoes being a bit loose. Perhaps modern homes with low humidity are to blame.

     

    Others who have more experience of maintenance and tuning may have different opinions.

     

    Steve

  10. 6 hours ago, Dowright said:

    I estimate the year of manufacture for Maccann No. 2097 as 1901. The closest "marker" that I have is a bill of sell dated 8 February 1898 for Maccann No. 1819--62 key, raised metal fretwork, metal buttons, 6-fold bellows.

     

    I already had No. 2096 (55-key Edeophone) and No. 2097 in my data. These are the first two Macann duet Edeophones in the data. No. 2098 is also there, but it is not an Edeophone.

    Thanks for that, Dowright.

     

    Steve

  11. I have a 46 button MacCann Edeophone, serial number 2097, which I thought dates from about 1910. The large Lachenal MacCann discussed in the Buy and Sell forum is claimed to date from 1891 and has the serial number 2093. 

     

    As as there are no ledgers, 1891 seems over precise and I imagine that Lachenal produced more MacCanns than those dates and serial numbers suggest.

     

    Does anybody have any information which would clarify the date of mine, please?

     

    Steve

     

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