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Andy Holder

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Everything posted by Andy Holder

  1. Andy Holder

    Jeffries sold

    Ebay aren't that clever. Chris's name is cocoa11 so they use the second last character, star star star, then last character - 1***1 Mine would be 2***0 but I've never bothered to look. Andy.
  2. Andy Holder

    Jeffries sold

    I went up to two and a half, thought that would be enough
  3. Thanks Michael. I'd be interested to see the pictures. Andy
  4. Hi Tony, No offence taken in the slightest. I'm always anxious that discussion eventually gets to the best outcome. I agree with you, that in many circumstances, 6 out of 10 isn't enough. Ideally you would seek a shorter insert and, as you say, glued and keyed. It was meant as a quick fix and in the case of this instrument, there is certainly plenty of good wood left and, because it is a tight interference fit in the hole, I feel gives adequate strength to the fixing. I did consider gluing in small dowels but I don't really like the idea of mixing end grain and cross grain, also dowels can shrink dramatically across the grain. Isopon or epoxy would do it but doesn't seem right in the spirit of the thing! Thanks for the input. Andy.
  5. Thank you Theo. That's brilliant. I'll have a close look and probably replace those valves. I bought two beautiful hides of hair sheep yesterday which should keep me in valves for the next 10 years! Cheers Andy.
  6. Sorry, I seem to be pestering with so many questions. I have a few notes where, if you play them very slowly and quietly, just after the reed sounds there is a sort of click and then a good sustained note, I'm guessing it may be the valve fully closing. All the valves are new and I've checked them. Will this just "play in" as the valves bed down? It only happens on a few. Thanks. Andy.
  7. Thanks Frank, Geoff and Chris. I looked at them both under the microscope and couldn't see any witness marks of touching. No touching the wood either. Cleaned them both and put them back in. The noises have now gone away! Which is really annoying because I don't know what it was. Possibly not seated properly in the slot. Valves seemed fine, they're all new. The only issue now is a slight clicking, presumably the valve. I'm going to post a separate question because not many people will look at this now. Thanks again. Andy.
  8. If you're machining from solid, the swarf is probably 80% of it, which, even if material is cheap, is a helluva waste!
  9. I've got a strange reed, it's the A below middle C. It firstly has a metallic vibration and then it sort of growls! It's bang on the note but this growl is something I haven't come across before. It looks identical to it's twin (EC) the clearance looks fine, there's no crud hanging around and it's nice 'n shiny, nothing on the surface. I can't see any crack anywhere and it twangs the same as its mate. The valves are new and it's definitely not a beat frequency. Any ideas? It's driving me mad! Thanks. Andy.
  10. Thanks to Henrik for unearthing it. I've started work on a replica machine (with some more modern bits!) Andy.
  11. I thought I'd share this bit of good fortune, it is an accidental discovery which might save lots of work. I'm restoring a Maccann Duet which I bought off Chris Algar a while ago. The end bolts have been screwed down over the years so they are now sunk right into the wood. I was going to fill and re-drill the holes but I remembered something in my electronics bits box. They are plated brass standoffs for mounting circuit boards. Coincidentally they are almost exactly the same diameter as Lachenal and Wheatstone bolt heads, with a nice clearance hole and 6mm long. They are a fraction bigger which means they are a tight push fit into the hole the bolt head made. So all you do is clean the hole out with a 4.5mm drill bit to a depth of 6mm, start the spacer into the hole, then pull it right in with the bolt. Fill around it and polish. Before. And after. In the UK they are available from RS Components (the part number is 606-759) and are about 10p each. There are probably shorter ones too. Hope it helps. Andy.
  12. Hmmm. perhaps I just invented the cheap Chinese Concertina! Not much leather in them.
  13. Interesting point. I've been toying with the idea of constructing a "Vegan Concertina". I'm guessing that a lot of folk musicians might be committed veggies! Andy.
  14. I will give that a try Chris. It sounds logical. The mandrel's an excellent idea. It prevents crushing the thread, although I guess it could be threaded as the last operation. Andy
  15. Hi Sean. In the case of the Lachenals and Wheatstones, the hole was used in the manufacturing process for the routing of the reed slots. Look at this fantastic footagethat Henrik Muller sent to me. I did an experiment. I stuck a piece of paper over the hole and drew lines along the edges of all the reed frames. Guess what? They all ended up at the centre of the hole (obviously!) The reason the hole is offset towards the small reeds is that the angle of the slots then stays the same. If it was in the centre, the long reeds would have a much steeper angle than the short ones. Andy
  16. Hi Geoff. It wasn't a wind up. I asked for a sample because I'm in a similar state of learning and I'm afraid it doesn't encourage me to listen to Noel Hill or JK. I haven't got that many years to practice! It's much more use to me to think "hey I might manage that". p.s. sad to see Seafrance have gone. That means the fares will certainly go up! Andy
  17. The late Pierre Hooft used to do exactly that to make his thumbscrews, though he would file off the relief design. He was just using the coin as stock. If you have the thing on a lathe to knurl it, why not just chuck a piece of 1/2" brass rod and make the screw in one piece? It takes less than 10 minutes per screw. Chris You're right Chris, but I didn't have a 6BA die! Just had the taps. Also, I'm not sure how easy it is to cut a thread right up to the shoulder. Is that the way you do it? You would definitely need a live tailstock in place when it started to get very thin.
  18. If anyone could tell us, it would probably be concertina.net member allan atlas. But there's also the question of whether they (or their audiences) would consider it a "sacrifice". Not only do different people have different tastes, very often the same person has different tastes, depending on the context. I know I do. I don't think it strange that someone might prefer a more intimate sound in a more intimate setting and a "stronger" sound in a concert hall performance. Or different sounds for different kinds of music. Alistair Anderson, e.g., seems to perform mainly on a metal-ended instrument, but for certain pieces he regularly uses an amboyna Aeola. I have finally gone for very very thin quarter sawn Spruce. 1.5mm. I believe there is a definite improvement in the tone, with hardly any loss in volume. It sounds lovely. Andy.
  19. Thanks Tony. I'd be very interested in any chord charts you come up with. I'm just about ready to give my Maccann a go but having looked at the blank fingering chart I can't even understand how you would do a scale in the key of C. Andy
  20. I love the photo. Size comparison leaves me wondering whether you could use the 5p coin as a screw head. Then you wouldn't have to worry about knurling, though avoiding damage to the coin's surface relief would surely be a much more difficult task. Thank you Jim. Could make a range of "novelty screws" I suppose! Otherwise, I'm not sure how you'd flatten the face. Oh, and of course, I think it is treason to deface a coin of the realm, mind you, they probably have excellent facilities in the prison workshop Andrew
  21. Hi Michael. Thanks for that. I just use a plumbing blowlamp with propane. With something this small it doesn't take long to heat it to a dull cherry red. A small nozzle helps. I'm afraid a lathe is probably a must for the knurling, unless you were to go round the edge and cut tiny slots with a Dremel. The knurling tool I use is a very cheap thing, not terribly good actually, but it is a couple of wheels on a sort of scissor mount that just clamps into the tool post. Just like this one: Here Andy
  22. Tony, any chance of a "just started" recording, then we can see how you progress and it may be an inspiration to people like me who feel a bit lost. Andy.
  23. I recall a recent discussion about making screws for straps. Here's my first attempt (well actually, the second, the first one exploded!) I needed extra long threads as the first thumbstraps I've made are a bit thick and normal screws won't reach. I got some lovely brass cheese head screws from ebay with a 6BA thread. Here are the bolts The heads are very sharply cylindrical so my first thought was to drill a blind, flat bottomed hole with a milling cutter and set the heads in very tightly, then silver solder. BAD MISTAKE! The watery flux paste must have created steam and, because it was such a tight fit, it took a little heating with the torch before it exploded loudly and shot the red-hot head across the workshop like a bullet! Pretty stupid idea really. Then I thought that the blind hole idea was an unnecessary complication if I wanted to make more, just for the sake of a clean top. In practice, a through hole is barely noticeable. Consider the difficulties. I wanted to end up with 3 mm thick heads. There is no way of holding this in the average lathe chuck to do the faces. Also, how on earth could I do the knurling round the edge? You can't hold it by the screw because the knurling tool applies so much sideways force. Here are the steps I did, there may well be a better way but this seemed to work quite well with a low-tech hobbyists lathe. 1. Put a short piece (2") of 3/4" brass rod in the chuck. 2. Knurl the last 1/4" of it 3. Face the end and bevel the corner 4. Drill into the end about 1/4" deep 5. Hacksaw a little more than the required thickness off. This is the head! 6. Tap the hole (6BA in my case) 7. Saw the head off the bolt and coat the end of it and the threaded hole with flux. 8. Screw it into the head so it just protrudes through the rough side. The smooth side is now the underneath of the head. 9. Hold the end of the screw in the chuck or a vice, not too much, don't want a heat sink 10. Heat with a gas torch until cherry red, then apply silver solder sparingly to both sides of the joint 11. When cool, push the screw right into the chuck and tighten 12. Very carefully, in small passes, face off the end and bevel the corner.(There's a lot of pressure on that bolt!) 13. Take off protective clothing, ear defenders, safety goggles and have a stiff drink! I then polished the head with various grades of lapping film (in my other life I polish optical connectors) I use 40 micron then 15, then 5, then 1. It's available from Workshop Heaven. They are obviously still much too long, I need to trim them, but I think they're good enough for the Wheatstone. Hope you like the result. Did you see how I used the old fashioned measurements for our American cousins? Andy
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