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Andy Holder

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Everything posted by Andy Holder

  1. Hi Adrian. It's difficult to determine what some of the reeds are, because they're not playing well. The lowest additional note is trying to be a G. It's G2 (98Hz). An octave below the G below middle C. Andrew
  2. Haha! If I told you that I'd have to kill you! Seriously though, it was in a small provincial auction house and I just got lucky! Cheers Andrew
  3. Not a silly question at all Geoff, and not taken as such, and thanks for the interest. Cheers Andrew
  4. Hi Geoff, the extra buttons haven't been supported, nor do they have any sort of bushing. I think the responsibility falls on me to give them a bit of extra support! Thank you for your compliment about the photos. Although it is is a bit off topic, I'm glad to give away all my secrets! I believe it's very little to do with the camera, but all about the lighting and background. Here's a picture, using my normal setup but taken with my phone. As they say in the instrument repair world, it takes some very specialised equipment and years of experience and training. Seriously though, here's my setup, in our tiny dining room: I have a 4' roll of Coloroll background paper which has lasted me for about 10 years, just coming to the end of it now. It looks better than chucking the thing on a chair or an old bed sheet. The light is a single studio flash head with a large softbox on it. This gives a broad light with very soft shadows and, importantly, a lot of light, so you can use something like f22 or f32, thereby getting lots of depth of field. Jessops do some great stuff here. It's also good for portraiture. You can use more than one light but they always end up fighting each other so it's much easier to have a big single light, the bigger the better. I use either a Canon 500D or Olympus E510, but most modern digitals will give excellent result. For developing, I find Adobe Lightroom 3 has by far the best algorithms for sharpening and noise reduction and basic editing. Sorry again for being OT. Andrew
  5. I'd have said the same thing. The duck call hints at music hall use in the past, I think. You're right Dirge. Definitely music hall type of stuff, Up the Old Kent Road! Andrew
  6. Thanks. I didn't realise that they would screw reed frames to the surface of the reed pan but it does look exactly like your picture. Looking at it more carefully it appears that the left hand end had 3 rows and the right hand end had three rows + 2. And the there's the single button right out on its own on the left. Andrew
  7. You're almost certainly right. There are two "rogues" on each end. I wasn't sure if the isolated button on the left (a mirror of the RH air button) was original. Seems an odd place to put an extra button. Andrew
  8. Thanks for that Ross. There are some more pics here. Unfortunately the bellows are leaking like a sieve. However I think a re-bind and a selective gusset here 'n there will do it. Most of the leather is sound. It's also a really good excuse for me to get that Sharf-fix skiving machine Quite a few of the reeds are v. rusty, but I think they're all salvageable. As you can see from the photos, someone has done a fairly decent job of adding the extra notes. The reed frames have been screwed onto the surface of the reedpan, rather than cutting into it, which is good. Only problem I have is I'm getting a bit obsessed already, it's 10.30 pm and I'm still working on it. Thanks again Andrew
  9. It's been a good week for me. Acquired my first Jeffries Anglo. Never thought it would happen until much further down the line. It's an interesting one, having had an extra 4 notes added on the left and 8 notes added on the right, including an awful sort of duck squawk! It now has 43 buttons + air. It's got a fair bit of sellotape on the bellows and the reedpans are v. dirty but I am thrilled with it. Doesn't really play much at all but that's a minor problem However, one thing I'm a little concerned about is the end bolts. They've been screwed down to the point where the metal has distorted and the wood underneath has compressed and bulged, as they do. This isn't the worst, but it illustrates it well. I would love to rectify this, by packing it with a fillet, re-ebonising and straightening the metal. I'm not worried about doing it, just worried about whether I should be doing it. I know some purists would say it ought to be left, but I'm not really in that camp. I'd appreciate opinions on the old restoration vs. conservation argument. Andrew
  10. Good point. I can't imagine how many M1.4 taps I'd get through in the process. I think Brass is definitely the fave, if only it weren't for the fact that lasers don't like it much. Andrew
  11. I did try that approach, but the company said that it would use far too much electrode and it would be very expensive. Wouldn't be a problem doing one at a time but they threw their hands up in horror at a whole sheet! Andrew
  12. Haha If only it were that easy to get them made! I've even thought of 3D printing them but I think it's still way too expensive. A further question to all. Why brass? I understand why the original makers would have used brass, nice for hand tooling and stamping. However, brass is problematic for lasers. Is there any reason, in a new instrument, why the frames shouldn't be stainless steel or even mild steel? Any acoustic reason? Cheers Andrew
  13. I'm still hoping that the blanks will have an angled cut, thus minimising the hand finishing of the slot. Andrew
  14. I've got a sample of titanium on my key ring that's been waterjet cut. It gives a perfect angle because the jet splays very slightly at the bottom of the cut. The unfortunate thing is that the cut width is near 1mm, so you haven't got quite the accuracy, and of course round corners on the slot which need more finishing. Andrew
  15. Hi Johann. It needs a 5 axis machine and probably YAG rather than CO2, which can be v. expensive, so hourly rate is high. I'll let you know when it happens. Andrew
  16. Hi all. Here are my first 60 reed frames. They are just virtual, of course, for the moment! I measured a Wheatstone and have spent far too much time doing a CAD drawing of them. They have a 3 degree angle on the edge and a 2 degree angle on the slot. I've put the clamp round the wrong way so there can be a tag holding both parts to the sheet. Now all I need is a modestly priced laser cutting firm. £200 a sheet? Andrew
  17. Theo, it might be worth having a chat to Richard Mason at John Keatley Metals 0121 236 4300. Evidently they do lots of small bits'n bobs. www.johnkeatleymetals.com They're oopnorth too. Andrew
  18. Hi Sally (or Zoe) If I'm not mistaken it was made on the 31st January 1956 (I was 5)! You'll find the relevant page in the production ledger here If you get joy from it then that's all that matters. It won't be long before it sounds gorgeous when you play it too. Good luck with it. Andrew
  19. Beautiful instrument Frank. If I'm absolutely honest, I'm not wild about the texture of the leather. Andy.
  20. Hi Bruce, it may be that there is a bit of contact between the reed and the reed frame, which would give a buzz. Or maybe some accumulation of dirt or rust on the edge of the reed or frame. If you have or can get the "Bible" by Dave Elliott it will tell you how to clean reeds. Andy.
  21. Hi Alex. The leather valve isn't glued to the metal reed frame. It's glued to the wood on the other side of the reed pan from the reed, over the slot cut in the wood. I use Feibing's Leathercraft Cement See here which I think is just PVA but twice the price. Still, it sounds good! Some people use a mix of PVA and cornstarch glue and the real masochists use animal hide glue! On this concertina, it is glued to the metal reed block. This is a Scholer 20 button concertina that I am fixing up to have something that a real sailor would use. The one I am fixing up has a total of 12 trapezoidal reed blocks - each reed block has 5 reeds for the push, and 5 for the pull. There are 3 reeds per note, giving the pitch in 3 simultaneous octaves. It is a little late for me to photograph it right now, but I have a photo of another smaller Scholer that has only 1 reed per note, and therefore has only a total of 4 trapezoidal reed blocks. This one I am cannibalizing for parts. Here is 1 of its reed blocks, showing 2 of the leather valves glued to the metal reed block: I have something called "Eco-Flo Tanner's Bond Leathercraft Cement", that is the same thing as Feibing's Leathercraft Cement. I would not be surprised if it holds the leather to wood, because wood is porous, but it is metal that I need to know about. My apologies Alex. My lack of knowledge, I'd never come across that type of instrument before. I see your problem. Theo's idea sounds good. When you say a real sailor, are you planning to use it on a boat? On my boat, everything non ferrous rusts very very quickly! Especially dissimilar metals next to each other. Good luck. Andy.
  22. Hi Alex. The leather valve isn't glued to the metal reed frame. It's glued to the wood on the other side of the reed pan from the reed, over the slot cut in the wood. I use Feibing's Leathercraft Cement See here which I think is just PVA but twice the price. Still, it sounds good! Some people use a mix of PVA and cornstarch glue and the real masochists use animal hide glue!
  23. Andy Holder

    Jeffries sold

    Andy, From experience - some bitter but some pleasant as well - you may find that the lower end instruments are much more challenging to repair or restore than one of the "better" names. The quality of materials used in the lower end instruments can result in a real struggle to achieve a halfway decent end result. It's probably also common that in your restoration, you've spent more time on the instrument than the original maker spent in its initial construction! Alex West That's certainly true Alex, although it's a very steep learning curve and you soon get to know the shortcuts. Andy
  24. Andy Holder

    Jeffries sold

    You're right Alex. I checked too. I guess they must take a random 2 characters from the username and put 3 stars in between. It seems to stay the same each time though. I didn't really expect to get it for 2.5 I tried for a couple of Jeffries' in auction houses down here. One went for 4,200 and the other for 3,100, plus 18% commission of course. I think Chris got those. He must have a very scary cash flow! (and good insurance!) He undoubtedly knows his market very well, although his ECs on ebay haven't been selling recently, there's a lot of re-listing. The sad thing for me is that I feel I'm ready to take on a refurb of that sort, but I can't get a look in, don't have the spare cash! So I end up doing the lower end instruments, which are great, but not quite as challenging. Cheers. a***0
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