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Andy Holder

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Everything posted by Andy Holder

  1. Like Dirge, I use Interparcel. They are really good. You don't have to have an account and you can choose your service, I generally go with DHL standard. They will also help you out with all the correct paperwork. One word of warning though. Don't just put "Concertina". They will almost certainly delay while they come back to you for "more detailed description of contents". If you put something like "Concertina accordion musical instrument" it helps. If just seen the date of your posting so you've probably sent it by now. If not, it's also a good idea to warn your customer that there will be extra duty and charges to pay when it arrives. Good luck Andrew
  2. Wow, thanks for all the input. I have, since the original post, managed to get some harpsichord damper felt, which is woven, with a white inner layer. It is very similar to piano "felt" but thin enough for washers. It works superbly well and is easy to stamp out. It's still quite expensive but is the real deal. Thanks again for all the advice. Andrew
  3. I'm struggling to find good quality felt that doesn't pull apart. The 100% wool is too thick and I don't think the acrylic works very well. Are the circular dampers on the buttons always felt or could soft leather be used? I've never seen leather ones but I wonder why. If anyone knows of a good felt, available in the UK, I'd be very grateful for the info. Andrew
  4. Impressive! I'm looking forward to further developments. But I don't think I'd better hold my breath while waiting for your "whole Concertina". (And I notice you didn't include "fully functioning" in your description. ) You never know, they can now do flexible materials too so the bellows should be a breeze!
  5. John, I don't know if you use Flickr? If so, you display the photo in Flickr, then go to "view all sizes" (top right corner). You then click on the size you want, I find medium 640 is good. When the medium photo is showing, right click on it and select "Copy Image URL" When you do the posting, click on "Insert image" and paste the URL into the small window. If you use another photo host, you should be able to get the properties, i.e. the URL of the image location. It should look something like this, the image URL surrounded by the html tag - http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7104/yourimage.jpg [/img ] You won't see the image until you preview or post it. Good luck. Andrew p.s. I rang a few weeks ago about bringing a Jeffries to show you. If it's OK, PM me. I'm only up the road in Mere!
  6. I just thought I'd share my first attempt at 3D printing some parts, a test strip of buttons and reed frames. Firstly a material called Alumide, which is an aluminium powder impregnated plastic. It has a grainy surface and is too soft for reed frames. Secondly, stainless steel. This is much too heavy and quite expensive. You also can't get a good enough surface or detail with it. It is extremely hard though. Titanium is on the way as a usable material. Very good detail and hardness. Sadly way too expensive at present. Interesting trial. Andrew
  7. Just musing, whilst replacing 96 valves on a nice Wheatstone EC. The outer reed pan chambers have valve pins to limit travel on all but the smallest valves. Why were they not put on the valves on the inner face of the reed pan? They would obviously have to be right angled pins but surely the danger of a valve curling to the point where it didn't work it just as likely on the inside as it is on the outside. Any ideas? Andrew
  8. Hi Jori, I'm with Theo on this, I'd like more details of the adhesive. I guess silicone sealant would stick well to it! There is an adhesive lined heat shrink tubing( polyolefin, not silicone) so that must stick. I have some silicone heat shrink here so I'll try some different adhesives on it. Andrew
  9. Nicely done! It's a bit blurred on the left, is that just your scanner? Andrew
  10. That must be why they sell for crazy money over there! Andy
  11. Thanks Leo. I think I have a piece of maple with tight grain, I could use a slice of that. Andy
  12. Thanks Chris. There are quite a few on ebay, I'll go for one of those. The reason I was worried was because I tried it on my very big floor standing pillar drill and it didn't cut all the way round, nor did it work with a circular punch. I guess the platen just isn't quite solid enough. Those cutters cost me around £40 each. I thought I'd save time by cutting two in one go but they have not put them close enough together so it'll waste too much material and, as you say, it's finding the good leather that takes the time. Luckily I have a supplier of hair sheep leather down the road so I can go and browse. Andy
  13. Geoff, I'm planning to use them one at a time, because they have spaced the two cutters rather too much and there would be a lot of waste. It does work with a hammer but I think the life of the tool will be reduced that way. I've got 3 ECs 3 Acs and a Duet to do so that's the best part of 500 valves needed. Worth the cost of a cheap press. Andy
  14. Hi all. I've just had 3 cutting formes made for 6 sizes of leather valves, 2 per tool. I know there are several people here that do it so can I ask what sort of press is optimum for this and what is the best backing plate? I was planning to use it upside down (blades up) so that it's easier to see where to place the material and therefore minimise waste. There are some 500kg presses here, but I don't know if it would be man enough for the job. Maybe something like this would be better, but I'm a bit stuck for space. Any thoughts/experience? Thanks, Andrew.
  15. Thanks Chris. I'll try that method. I think there really isn't any point trying to drill the holes after the punch as I first attempted!
  16. Very good description Twisper. Thanks. I might give Lexol a try.
  17. Thanks Dave. Meltonian seems to be well recommended by several people.
  18. Thanks Alex. I love the Falkiners one but it is a bit expensive!
  19. Geoff, bookbinders of that era would certainly have used gold leaf. What about modern concertina makers? How is the gold tooling done? I'm sure the cost isn't huge.
  20. Sorry, so many new questions by me. Was the original gold tooling on Jeffries bellows actual gold leaf? I would like to carefully touch in some of the most worn areas of these bellows. If so, then I should be able to size small lines and rub in new leaf, I'm pretty good with picture frames. Please note, this isn't "should I or shouldn't I?" that's a whole different topic. Thanks Andrew
  21. Thanks for that Greg. I haven't done anything yet so in the light of what you have said I think I will avoid it altogether. Andrew
  22. I have a nice Lachenal English in the process of tidying. It clearly hasn't been played for a while and, whilst it is very airtight, I'm a little concerned that the bellows gussets and bottom bindings are a bit hard. Is there a good way to soften this leather without affecting the glue? I have heard of people using olive oil on old leather furniture. Or possibly Linseed oil? Andrew
  23. Alex, I like the look of your hole punch, where did you obtain it! The concertina seems to have many, many jobs that "fill out an evening"! I've just been cutting bellows papers out of sheets. Andrew
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