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RP3

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  1. Neill, This is a standard scam trick. Do not go for it. The risk is too great. Ross Schlabach
  2. I agree with Frank. I'm assuming that we're talking about Anglos. My first concertina was an early Suttner (#48) and it was a raised end Linota model -- even though I don't know if there was such a thing when Linotas were new. The height of the palm-rest was too low given the raised center section and I was constantly fighting with it. My fingers had trouble arching back -- especially for the G row which is closer to the palm-rest on Wheatstones than it is on many other brands. The low F# was particularly tough to reach with my big hands. The problems went away when I got my first Jeffries --
  3. While I have not had the opportunity to take classes with Grainne, I have attended the Celtic Week at Swannanoa for several years and each has been an outstanding learning and musical experience. I also have concertina playing friends who have taken Grainne's class, and they have had nothing but good things to say about her class. You should also know that instructors are critiqued by the students and instructors receiving bad ratings aren't asked back. Grainne has been teaching concertina there for a number of years. In addition to the daily 1-1/2hr +/- class sessions, there are lots of o
  4. Andrew, when I studied the right hand photo you originally posted, I could only see two buttons that obviously looked like they were added later. The rest looked original. I couldn't find a picture of the right end of a 38 button model to compare to but I'm thinking yours might have started life as a 38 button model. One reason I'm thinking that way is the metal around the rest of the buttons. Only the 2 bottom end buttons extend beyond that solid metal portion that normally surrounds the button area. It will be interesting to hear what our experts have to say. Ross Schlabach
  5. Hi Andrew, I have several Jeffries models and have considered the same question. My suggestion to you is that you not mess with the bent metal and compressed wood if that's your only problem. Now if you need other repairs to the sides, then my answer would be different. But if the concertina doesn't have any bellows to frame air leaks, I'd leave well enough alone. From the limited views you gave us, I wonder if the bellows are going. If so, I'd recommend you go for a quality bellows replacement. No cheapie here since you've got a quality instrument. On the restoration vs conservat
  6. No, but it is an endorsement for brass reeds -- the laser issue notwithstanding. Ross Schlabach
  7. Another possibility is wire EDM. That's what Wally Carroll uses very successfully and I don't think there's the same radius problem you described. He has even done titanium reed shoes but says that this metal takes far too long on the machine and breaks the wire a lot. Not worth it for the small weight saving. Good luck with your project. Ross Schlabach
  8. That link just took me to the SoundCloud site -- but no video! Ross Schlabach
  9. Before the concertina, my prime instrument was the hammer dulcimer. But I transitioned to the concertina because I really liked Irish music AND the concertina weighs much less and doesn't have to be retuned every time you turn around! And I still love them both -- with the concertina definitely taking first place! Ross Schlabach
  10. Chris, check with Greg Jowaisas. He most likely has several to choose from. And they will already be ready to play! Ross Schlabach
  11. Hi All, I don't think the one in that awful video is the same instrument -- unless there have been some repairs since. Look at the video -- if you can stand it again -- and you'll see there's a piece of missing veneer on one of the eight sides. But there's no missing veneer on the eBay one just sold. Maybe, just maybe, that lovely and ridiculously expensive concertina wasn't subjected to that YouTube humiliation. One can only hope. Ross Schlabach
  12. Lawrence, say it isn't so. I can't believe you've crossed over to the darkside! Any more news on the Tionol? Ross Schlabach
  13. Hi there Wannaplay, Your idea of playing jazz on a concertina is an interesting and possibly unique one -- and as such, we may not be able to give you a definitive answer. But here are some things you need to consider. First is your budget. Concertinas are deceptively expensive and your budget won't get you much. At best, you might be able to find a hybrid concertina to start with. Repeat after me: Cheap concertinas are junk! Now that we have that out of the way, here are some thoughts -- actually a stream of consciousness thing. Jazz can come in any keys, so you will probably want to
  14. That one has already been listed by him before and yanked at the last minute when it wasn't bringing his outrageous price expectations. I wish eBay would just kick him off for all the rule violations he's undoubtedly accumulated. But they keep making money off him -- sale or no sale! Ross Schlabach
  15. Andy, I have heard repeatedly that until recently Chris Algar could get better prices for concertinas (Jeffries and Wheatstones high among them) in Ireland than elsewhere. It's to his credit that he hasn't sent them all there and left the rest of the world to do without. However, the current economic situation in Ireland probably means that the demand for fine concertinas has softened somewhat. I must admit at the same time that almost any time I see some new up-and-coming young concertina player performing on YouTube, it's likely to be a Jeffries sitting in their lap! But strong econo
  16. Hi Lawrence, Glad you are delighted with your new Suttner. BTW, what key is it in? Enjoy, Ross Schlabach
  17. Mike, I'm not in England, but I can offer a suggestion. Several years ago I got a 38 button ebony ended A4 from Jurgen. It was beautiful but very heavy. So unless weight is not an issue for you, I would suggest you stick with the 30 button models. I would also pass on ebony for the same reason and its tendency to crack. Best regards and good luck with your decision, Ross Schlabach
  18. I received two replies to my question about the photos from fallaghman, the eBay lister of the second concertina. Here they are: "Very many thanks to you for drawing my attention to this detail, but I have also said that may not be EXACTLY the same, which should cover this. I couldn't find the proper one @ the time." "Last night I couldn't find the one that I wanted & that was the only pic. that I could find. Been replaced today" I thought that first reply was totally a cop out and unsatisfactory. But his listing has since been revised with a new photo that hopefully is of
  19. Anytime a listing has misleading or incorrect information, then a potential buyer is being defrauded unless the incorrect information is removed in time for buyers to make an informed decision. I sent the seller a question asking about this apparent error to see what they have to say. Hopefully, this will be resolved quickly. Ross Schlabach
  20. I studied both listings and in the first (the Wheatstone), the view through the ends is clearly red and matches the interior shot. I was able to also identify that the action pictures were both showing a standard Lachenal hook and loop lever system which I think was standard for the later Wheatstones like the one in the first listing. A careful look at the end photo of the second eBay listing shows the interior to be a tan or natural wood color. IMHO, there is clearly no baffle cloth or anything like that in the photo posted by Daniel. So my evaluation -- without any other supporting info
  21. Hi John, You are apparently now going through what I experienced back in the late 1990s. I started off with a Suttner that was a clone of the Wheatstone Linota. It was quite cramped and the palmrest was ill positioned. Through lots of experimentation and measuring, I found out that Wheatstones and Lachenals have their rows of notes closer to the palmrest than do Jeffries, Crabbs and custom-made Dippers -- as you have experienced. George Salley's instrument is a one of a kind that I think became the basis for the Shantyman model that Dipper has made. I too had Dipper make me a small Cotswol
  22. If I remember correctly from pictures in earlier threads of the concertina in question, there is some damage and/or missing fretwork to the side not shown. I too expect that the seller will repeat an earlier practice of pulling the listing if he doesn't like where the bidding is going -- or not going! The seller has established a well defined pattern of refusing to disclose routine information about the concertinas he has on eBay, and his responses to legitimate questions have been anything but friendly. He regularly refuses to provide information that any bidder should want to know and his re
  23. Hello. I can't help you with prices on a 38 button., but I can offer some issues to consider. First, 38 button instruments are heavier than 30 button models but I strongly recommend you try both before making a decision about whether this extra weight bothers you. However, I can say that IMHO the 46 button models are far too heavy for comfortable play of ITM -- they may still be suitable for other kinds of music if you need the extra notes for chords, etc. You didn't say what kind of music you want to play. If it is ITM, then a 30 button C/G will suit and the extra 8 buttons are not required.
  24. At some point recently, I saw a photo or series of photos that showed different end run stamps used supposedly on Jeffries or similar (Crabb, Ball Beavon, etc) concertinas. i can not find that information again and would appreciate it if anyone can direct me to the right place to find it again. Thanks in advance, Ross Schlabach
  25. Wally Carroll is already using a lot of this technology in his new concertinas. All the reedframes are cut by wire EDM and the reed tongues are cut by the same method. The wooden endframes are cut by CNC as are many of the wooden parts. Parts for the bellows are cut by laser and so on. So, at least at his shop, this technology is in full action with ful interchangability. Ross Schlabach
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