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Everything posted by RP3

  1. Hi Flo, I was tickled to see your new website and even more pleased to hear you are going to be back at the Southeast Tionol next February. Please bring some of your lovely waltzes for us to learn. Ross Schlabach
  2. OK, Greg has delicately dragged me into this thread, so here goes. I have two 28 button Jeffries concertinas: one C/G and one Bb/F. Lets just focus on the C/G. When you play in the keys of C & G, the 28 button plays just like a 30 button because you don't normally have to venture into the third row. BUT, when you move to the key of D, all bets are off. Trips to the low A and the low C# are expeditions into the great unknown because they are each displaced one position to the bottom from the layout on a 30 button. Greg is correct, these notes require the use of the pinkie or some form of aw
  3. Bmhester, you didn't mention what kind of music you are interested in playing. If Irish or Morris is your primary interest then the logical first choice is an Anglo. If you would want to play in lots of different keys, then an English model might be a better choice. The Anglo play very much like a harmonica with an in/out bellows movement as you go up the scale and notes are in order as you go up the scale on a row. The English model is quite different in that it plays the same note whether you squeeze or pull on the bellows. And notes alternate between the left and right side and between you
  4. For the purpose you mentioned, some of the miniature concertinas would fill the bill. While they are small and have less than 30 buttons, they are fully capable of playing music. Noel Hill plays a very small Jeffries miniature Anglo. Of course miniatures are pitched in higher octaves and usually only have enough notes to support playing in one key, but they can make fabulous music and are quite challenging to play. These do come up for sale from time to time with differing sizes and number of keys. Randy Merris has compiled an interesting history on miniatures but I don't know if it has b
  5. The Dipper Clare model is one of the smallest 30 b models at 5-5/8" but I remember a couple of friends having 30 b Lachenals that may have been smaller. I do remember the latter were too small for my hands but the Dipper is not. And I don't remember if the Lachenals were even C/Gs? The real limiting factors are chamber and reed sizes. To stay in the C/G range, you can only get them so small. While your question may have been exclusively academic, from a practical standpoint an Anglo smaller than the Clare model would likely be very difficult for most players to manage. Just not enough roo
  6. There's a nice one on eBay right now with a Buy It Now price of $1,800 but unfortunately it is located in Kansas USA: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tedrow-C-G-Anglo-30-button-aeola-style-concertina-/190741533598?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c6914d39e Just mentioned it in case...... Ross Schlabach
  7. Shelly, I'm sure you didn't mean to demean him by calling them "homeworked", but just so folks know, Greg is making top quality bellows in his own shop after making bellows for Carroll Concertinas for a number of years. He recently completed a lovely set of bellows for a me on a Jeffries that he fully resurrected from the dead, and it is now an instrument of both cosmetic and aural beauty: a real keeper! On mine and now on this latest Lachenal, Greg has gotten new and finer stamps for use in embossing the end runs, and the results are excellent. If anybody needs a new bellows for thei
  8. RP3

    Use Tax

    That's an interesting approach Moira but Dipper is not the same as somebody doing a garage sale. Other than instrument repairs, his prime business is the manufacture and sale of concertinas which IMHO most likely falls under the category of tangible personal property. Based on my reading of the text, overseas sales get no special treatment: they are considered the same as something bought in the next state over. Most states want everyone to voluntarily report and effectively pay sales taxes on all purchases brought into the state. This is the crux of the battles between states and Amazon.
  9. That is not the best way to have bellows redone IMHO. It is better to send the entire instrument to the bellows maker. That way he/she can check the fit and make sure that the bellows fitting doesn't mis-align the end mounting holes by distorting the frames. And, they can Custom fit the chamois and adjust the corner blocks as necessary for an airtight fit of the reed pans. Ross Schlabach
  10. While the focus of this thread may be toward more modest bellows, I'd like to recommend someone who can make top quality bellows -- including papers and embossing. Greg Jowaisas has just finished a high end concertina for me and, included in the full restoration of the rest of the instrument, he made me an outstanding new bellows. People (myself included) have talked up Greg on this forum for quality concertina tuning and repairs, but he also makes some of the finest bellows available. Check out these photos from this Jeffries he just delivered to me at the Midwest NHICS. Ross Schlabach
  11. I think you would be much better off getting a Rochelle than one of these other CSOs (concertina shaped objects)! Any extra expense will pay dividends in playability and reliability. Ross Schlabach
  12. Before you jump, be aware of three things: first is that concertina sizes vary so what may fit one model may not fit another. The second and more important thing is that the old cases were hard on the contents. They sat upright which can cause the valves on one side of the concertina to droop - something not good for the playability of the instrument. These cases also can be hard on the wooden ends and the bellows too since there is no inside padding. Overall, a modern case is much better for your concertina. Ross Schlabach
  13. I'm aware of several D/A tuned 12 sided Wheatstones -- Grey Larson has one. These were custom made by Wheatstone for customers in the Cincinatti, Ohio area. If I remember correctly, at least Grey's came with a second set of reedpans but I don't remember their tuning. If you check back on old threads you can probably determine when these were made because they've been discussed before.. Greg J. will likely remember, but he's currently at Irish Arts week. But, I don't think that many were made in that tuning. Ross Schlabach
  14. When I started checking out the pictures, I began to wonder if there were any of concertina players? But with a touch of patience, I found them. And I must say that in the almost 20 years that I've known Noel Hill, I have never seen him so dressed up and brushed down! A lovely group of photos. Thanks Peter. Ross Schlabach
  15. If I'm not mistaken, Ben was the seller. Ross Schlabach
  16. RP3

    Wm. Kimber

    Wonder if William Kimber was related to the famous founder of the MG Car Company, Cecil Kimber. As a lover of both concertinas and old MGs, that would be a wonderful convergence of interests for me. Ross Schlabach
  17. David, I agree that Tunepal is not all that accurate. Not even sure it hits the mark 50% of the time. I accept that my playing could affect the results but on a couple of occasions I repeatedly played a tune I knew into the Record function, and each time it gave me a different answer. But sometimes it is spot on. I think it is best to try to use it to see if it will point you in the right direction. Since I can read dots and can whistle, I can select the tune it names first and let it pull up the sheet music. With a quick scan of the melody, I can tell if it has identified the tune I was looki
  18. Among other things, the composition of the reeds will determine their stiffness and flexibility and consequently: 1) how easily the reed will start moving in the air stream; 2) how fast the reed rebounds after its downward movement; 3) how quickly it can repeat the above; 4) what the amplitude of the reed's movements will be; and so on. All these will play a role in how the reed's movements and harmonic characteristics shape the vibrations that become part of that air movement -- or put another way -- the sound we hear. Another analogy is the difference between the tone of a steel string
  19. Wouldn't surprise me if the bidder withdraws his/her bid before the auction ends! Ross Schlabach
  20. Since Stainless Steel wasn't invented until 1913 -- long after the death of C Jeffries Sr, I think we can safely rule that out. But apparently Jeffries did use very high quality steel in his reeds. The shape and thickness of the reed shoes may also have played a role in their remarkable sound. Ross Schlabach
  21. Oh goodness, and I should have mentioned Greg too since he has made fine cases for me in the past. If you decide to e-mail him, be patient. He may still be out of town a while longer. But he's worth the wait! Ross Schlabach
  22. Another option is to contact Frank Edgley on this side of the pond. He now makes the fine cases previously made by Sean Fallon. It will be made specifically to fit your instrument and is strong enough to withstand rough treatment. Give him a call or send him an e-mail. Ross Schlabach
  23. Folks, mine IS in need of new action boards on both sides with replacement of the action once that's done, replacement of any worn levers/rivets, top quality bellows with all Jeffries tooling and papers, pads, valves, tuning, rebushing of all buttons, button height re-set & button pressure adjustment to my specs, new chamois gaskets, replacement of a couple of non-Jeffries reeds, possible adjustment of corner blocks, etc. So my cost IS quite reasonable. Nuf said! Ross S.
  24. Alex, I have a Jeffries in the process of being restored with an initial repair estimate a bit over $2k. The reedpans on my instrument are pristine as are the reeds. Judging from the photos, this instrument on eBay is in far worse condition, so I think that my $3k estimate is very close! And we haven't even seen photos of the action pans to assess that part of the instrument. Ross Schlabach
  25. I agree with Alex that This does not look like a Jeffries: the ends are not cut like any Jeffries I've ever seen. Also, those ends do not match the ends of a 38 button concertina recently on eBay from Chris Algar. He described his as a Shakespeare. Another normal way to identify Jeffries is that one or both ends are stamped "C. Jeffries Maker". This stamp can be faked but the instrument in question is unstamped. The bellows may not be originial, but if they are, they are not decorated in the normal Jeffries style. I also think that this is not a Crabb either. The condition sugge
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