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Everything posted by RP3

  1. The Dipper in the latest eBay listing is a different one than shown on the London Craigslist post. Different metal ends and the new listing has an extra button on the C row. So we are slowly putting together the evidence, like Foyle or Endeavor, to confirm our suspicions. Ross Schlabach
  2. Well, there is a place called Ripley, Tennessee near Memphis. It's a bit too far out of the way for me to check it out in person on my way to Noel Hill's class in Cincinnati. But the big question is why is it being sold in £ sterling while the item is in Tennessee and of course the seller is brand new with no history. I've got all the concertinas I could ever want, so I'll leave it up to someone else to sleuth it out. Ross Schlabach
  3. Well, three things suggest to me that it is a Lachenal and not a Jeffries: the metal ends (especially the cartouche), the bellows end stamping, and the bellows papers. Also the button size and shape is wrong for a Jeffries. The price paid might indicate that the buyer agrees with the above! Ross Schlabach
  4. Mike made a good point about asking about the material used in the reed frames. Aluminum was used in some of the later Wheatstone models and is not as desirable as those concertinas made with brass reed frames. Some aluminum reed frame concertinas are fine but it is often a reason for concern. Ross Schlabach
  5. Rick, I also wholly endorse the recommendation of Greg Jowaisas for the work on your Jeffries. Greg did a complete restoration on a Jeffries for me that included not only the usual items but also a beautiful new bellows and replacement of both cracked action boards. This is a major undertaking because all the levers have to be removed, the broken boards carefully detached, new boards made and all the holes precisely drilled for lever pivots, button stems and spring mounting points. All in all, serious work done magnificently. I don't think you can do better. Ross Schlabach
  6. RP3

    He's Back

    They won't be happy. I'd be willing to bet that he will come up with some excuse to cancel the auction before it ends. He recently posted it at a starting price of about $3,800, pulled it, listed it at about $4,800, no bids, listed it at about $6,200, and once more no bids. So if he prices it where someone might bid, that's too low in his mind and so he pulls it before it's over. This is one sick creature. Ross Schlabach
  7. I can voucher for the quality of Greg's work since my new bellows are revealed behind "Door #2"! And the work on the rest of the concertina was equally exceptional. Ross Schlabach
  8. This concertina was offered and sold through the Button Box several months ago. You would think that potential buyers would notice that supposedly the concertina is in Washington state but is being sold in British Pounds. With all the other warning flags, it's hard to not be suspicious of the listing. Ross Schlabach
  9. Hi Gary, Unfortunately there is a possibility of fakes where Jeffries concertinas are concerned. There was a time in England when pawn shops there would only accept Jeffries concertinas, so there was an incentive to fake a Jeffries to pawn it. Then too, Jeffries concertinas bore a strong resemblance to Crabb concertinas and the accepted wisdom is that Crabb made some of the early Jeffries concertinas, and it is this family similarity that made it relatively easy to attempt a forgery. That being said, the forgeries involved stamping the Jeffries name on the ends -- with various levels of sophistication -- and there are ways to separate true Jeffries from the pretenders. Very possibly, just a few pics posted here would help us advise you as to the originality of your instrument. Another factor not mentioned is the pitch of the instrument. If it is in modern C/G tuning you would likely find more potential buyers than if it is in one of the flat pitches -- and the price will adjust accordingly. The advice to check out recent auction results on-line are a good first step and careful inspection by a qualified repairman is an even better way to know what you've got and can help with the assessment of value. Since you are here in the states, the best qualified concertina repairman I know is Greg Jowaisas. Within the past year he has helped me find an unmolested Jeffries and done the restoration work with marvelous results, and he's worked on a number of Jeffries for me and others and is very knowledgeable on these instruments. If you would like his contact information, just contact me through the forum's message system or e-mail me at rpsqueezer (AT) gmail.com. One other thing to keep in mind is that the concertina sales market has been weak recently and so selling prices are lower now than they have been in times past. Instruments that would have been snapped up quickly off eBay 12 months ago are now languishing with nary a bid. So you can't count your cash until you actually find a buyer. But talk with Greg and he can give you a better feel for what your concertina might bring -- but, like us, he will need to see pictures or even better, inspect the concertina in person. Ross Schlabach
  10. Congrats to all at the BB for this lovely looking and sounding creation. I just have one (tongue in cheek) question. There are three videos on the page -- demonstrating the new duet. Supposedly, based on the titles, Aaron Marcus is playing on two of these videos and David Barnett is playing on one of the videos. But whoever is playing, all three videos feature a fine player wearing the exact same shirt and pants. Do these guys have to share clothing as well as the prototype concertina? Absolutely wonderful playing in any case. Ross Schlabach
  11. This concertina is now sold and a donation will be made to C.Net. Thanks for everybody's interest. Ross Schlabach
  12. Hi Griffinga, Frank has offered sage advice. Retuning a Jeffries is not done lightly and can destroy the tone of the instrument if you are not lucky. It can be especially risky if the instrument has been retuned before and you try to retune it again. In these cases, there is usually insufficient metal left on some of the reeds for the retuning. I have two Jeffries that have been left in their original pre-A440 tuning to avoid risking the loss of the wonderful character of the tone. Of course this means I am pretty much kept out of sessions with these instruments unless the other players can tune to me, but better to protect a good sounding concertina than risk it just to play in sessions. Having another instrument for session play lets you save the Jeffries tuning as it is. But this is not always possible. Having an old unplayable (I'm assuming that) Jeffries restored is always an act of faith and hope. I recently did it and was rewarded with a wonderful instrument. I hope you are as fortunate. BTW, I'm in Western NC in Tryon -- south of Asheville. If you are close and would like to share a tune or two sometime or have me look at this prospective Jeffries restoration project with you, contact me through the IM. I'd be delighted to meet you. Ross Schlabach
  13. Well, if it's not a scam, then why did the seller reuse some of the photos from the old listing as well as shamelessly copy some of the description text -- including the exact same wording about fingernail marks between the buttons? But what is even fishier is why have a listing for something that is supposed to be for sale from the US, but the pricing is in British Pounds? I'd stay clear. Ross Schlabach
  14. This seems quite an interesting and yet challenging piece of programming. In playing an Anglo, sometimes being at the end of your bellows (either extended or compressed) can dictate that you use an alternate fingering like a press A on the accidental row LH rather than either draw A. Have you incorporated this bellows management feature into your programming? Also, you may want to incorporate the playing of ornaments which are an integral part of many Irish tunes. And especially Irish Traditional Music emphasizes bounce in the playing, and it would be interesting to see if the program can reproduce this characteristic in its output. I will be interested to see the outcome and look forward to comparing the program's answers to fingerings used by some well-known performers on the concertina. Ross Schlabach
  15. In replacing the chamois on the ends of a Jeffries, I discovered how poorly aligned the holes are that are drilled in the little pieces of brass that the end bolts screw into. I think these parts are called "sets"? Does anybody know the thread sizes for end bolts on vintage Jeffries and Crabbs for instance. And are they the same as Wheatstone threads? And finally, are there any sources for suitably sized taps and dies? Thanks, Ross Schlabach
  16. Laurence, here's a toughie and it's aptly named the Concertina Reel. If you aren't careful, the whole A part can easily be played on the draw-- leaving you airless in short order. The B part is similarly pull-happy but a bit easier to slip in press notes like using a press C# instead of a draw C# (Wheatstone owners can disregard this since they only have one C# on the right outside row). The ability to take advantage of the press A on the left outside row can help with bellows management on the A part as can the press C# on the right side. You don't have to use them exclusively, but an occasional use, together with air button, can bring the bellows back in enough to keep the tune rolling. Give it a try. Ross Schlabach
  17. Since I have a wonderful C/G Jeffries that is occupying most of my playing time and I have a hankering for a G/D anglo, I have decided to part with my C/G Dipper. This instrument was ordered new by me from Colin Dipper -- through the Button Box -- and delivered in 2001. It is internally labeled as a Cotswold model, serial number 406, although it is only slightly larger than the Clare model. This concertina measures 5-7/8' across the flats. Colin made this to fit my large paws. Mostly this means that the handbar is longer than normal. I'm asking $7,500 plus the actual cost of shipping and insurance. To avoid hassles with Customs and the like, this sale is only available to US customers in the lower 48 states. I prefer cash or official bank check. I can also take Paypal, but the buyer will have to cover the Paypal charges. If you are interested and have any questions, you can reach me at 828 sp 894 sp 5504 or e-mail to rpsqueezer (AT) gmail.com. I meant to add that if it is not already sold by then, I will be taking it to the SE Tionol in Orlando this weekend where it can be seen and given a test drive. Ross Schlabach
  18. Geoff, if I remember correctly, the process of replating involves multiple plating steps -- each followed by its own buffing -- so I don't think your idea of having all the plating done and then you buffing it carefully at home will work. But good luck with your restoration just the same. Ross Schlabach
  19. Your problem is not unknown -- at least to me. My first concertina was an early Suttner reproduction of a Wheatstone Linota and I found the air button placed too low relative to the palmrest -- making air button use difficult. My salvation came when I first played a Crabb and later a Jeffries. Both of these brands seem to have originally been made for the working man, and on both the positioning of the inside row and the air button is more comfortable for folks with bigger hands. Now days, I play a Jeffries and also have a Dipper similarly equipped for my paws! For me the Wheatstones are too close and tightly buttoned. Others with smaller hands probably feel really at home with Wheatstones and out of their element with a Crabb or Jeffries. Different strokes for different folks, Ross Schlabach
  20. Dominic, I do not have a Rochelle, but most of the concertinas like it use accordion reeds that are either held in place by screws or waxed into place. You don't want to glue them in because they may have to be removed for retuning. You should contact the maker, Concertina Connection for their advice. Good luck, Ross Schlabach.
  21. I took a concertina with me on our two trips to Ireland -- flying into Shannon in Clare -- and had no problems with Customs either in or out. But, and this is a big but, instrument thefts are a big deal in Ireland and so I had to carry my concertina everywhere I went in a backpack. You can't leave your concertina in a car. And even leaving it in your hotel room may not be safe. There are stories of people having their concertina sitting on the bar next to them and when they get distracted, it's gone. So caution will be important. We didn't do much pub hopping, so I can't advise on sessions, but the ones we did encounter were fairly high level with respected locals only. My favorite parts of Ireland are in the West: Clare, Kerry, Donegal, Sligo. But I expect you'll have a great time over wherever you go. Ross Schlabach
  22. The C&S issues have a new home and I will be delivering them at the SE Tionol in Orlando. Ross
  23. I have 14 old issues of Concertina and Squeezebox that are just taking up space on my music shelf. If someone here in the continental USA wants them and is willing to pay $10 toward the postage, I'd much rather send them on than have them end up in the dumpster. Just contact me at rpsqueezer (AT) gmail.com if you want them. Obviously, it's first come--first served. Ross Schlabach
  24. Just looked this morning and our scammer has stolen and is misusing another eBay identity to hawk these same two Jeffries concertinas: not once but twice each! The scammer is anything but subtle. With this deluge of fake listings, anybody with half a brain should be able to spot that these are bogus listings. I, for one, hold eBay partially responsible since their policies have made it nearly impossible to alert bidders to these scams and eBay acts very slowly if at all to these listings. Ross Schlabach
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