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RP3

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  1. In replacing the chamois on the ends of a Jeffries, I discovered how poorly aligned the holes are that are drilled in the little pieces of brass that the end bolts screw into. I think these parts are called "sets"? Does anybody know the thread sizes for end bolts on vintage Jeffries and Crabbs for instance. And are they the same as Wheatstone threads? And finally, are there any sources for suitably sized taps and dies? Thanks, Ross Schlabach
  2. Laurence, here's a toughie and it's aptly named the Concertina Reel. If you aren't careful, the whole A part can easily be played on the draw-- leaving you airless in short order. The B part is similarly pull-happy but a bit easier to slip in press notes like using a press C# instead of a draw C# (Wheatstone owners can disregard this since they only have one C# on the right outside row). The ability to take advantage of the press A on the left outside row can help with bellows management on the A part as can the press C# on the right side. You don't have to use them exclusively, but an oc
  3. Since I have a wonderful C/G Jeffries that is occupying most of my playing time and I have a hankering for a G/D anglo, I have decided to part with my C/G Dipper. This instrument was ordered new by me from Colin Dipper -- through the Button Box -- and delivered in 2001. It is internally labeled as a Cotswold model, serial number 406, although it is only slightly larger than the Clare model. This concertina measures 5-7/8' across the flats. Colin made this to fit my large paws. Mostly this means that the handbar is longer than normal. I'm asking $7,500 plus the actual cost of shipping and i
  4. Geoff, if I remember correctly, the process of replating involves multiple plating steps -- each followed by its own buffing -- so I don't think your idea of having all the plating done and then you buffing it carefully at home will work. But good luck with your restoration just the same. Ross Schlabach
  5. Your problem is not unknown -- at least to me. My first concertina was an early Suttner reproduction of a Wheatstone Linota and I found the air button placed too low relative to the palmrest -- making air button use difficult. My salvation came when I first played a Crabb and later a Jeffries. Both of these brands seem to have originally been made for the working man, and on both the positioning of the inside row and the air button is more comfortable for folks with bigger hands. Now days, I play a Jeffries and also have a Dipper similarly equipped for my paws! For me the Wheatstones are too c
  6. Dominic, I do not have a Rochelle, but most of the concertinas like it use accordion reeds that are either held in place by screws or waxed into place. You don't want to glue them in because they may have to be removed for retuning. You should contact the maker, Concertina Connection for their advice. Good luck, Ross Schlabach.
  7. I took a concertina with me on our two trips to Ireland -- flying into Shannon in Clare -- and had no problems with Customs either in or out. But, and this is a big but, instrument thefts are a big deal in Ireland and so I had to carry my concertina everywhere I went in a backpack. You can't leave your concertina in a car. And even leaving it in your hotel room may not be safe. There are stories of people having their concertina sitting on the bar next to them and when they get distracted, it's gone. So caution will be important. We didn't do much pub hopping, so I can't advise on session
  8. The C&S issues have a new home and I will be delivering them at the SE Tionol in Orlando. Ross
  9. I have 14 old issues of Concertina and Squeezebox that are just taking up space on my music shelf. If someone here in the continental USA wants them and is willing to pay $10 toward the postage, I'd much rather send them on than have them end up in the dumpster. Just contact me at rpsqueezer (AT) gmail.com if you want them. Obviously, it's first come--first served. Ross Schlabach
  10. Just looked this morning and our scammer has stolen and is misusing another eBay identity to hawk these same two Jeffries concertinas: not once but twice each! The scammer is anything but subtle. With this deluge of fake listings, anybody with half a brain should be able to spot that these are bogus listings. I, for one, hold eBay partially responsible since their policies have made it nearly impossible to alert bidders to these scams and eBay acts very slowly if at all to these listings. Ross Schlabach
  11. As fast as we alert eBay and our fellow squeezers, the crooks do it again: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-C-Jeffries-anglo-concertina-/281054226437?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4170232805 Same instrument, etc. the shocking thing is that these cretins have managed to steal so many legitimate eBay IDs! Ross Schlabach
  12. Wow! A concertina with an interesting provenance. I even saw the movie. Ross Schlabach
  13. Just spotted this new listing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wheatstone-43-Key-Piccolo-English-Concertina-W-6-Fold-Bellows-/290846566383?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b7ce67ef Looks to be in excellent condition, but the owner doesn't know much about concertinas. So, there's some kind of story there. Ross Schlabach
  14. I think that one possible reason the scammers want to use private contact is that they have stolen an eBay identity and the private contact will go to a separate e-mail address and the legitimate owner of the identity won't be aware of the activity on his/her account. It also can make it harder to track the bogus identity thief. Ross Schlabach
  15. The two potentially scam Tina's are back up again: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Vintage-W-Jeffries-English-Concertina-with-Original-Leather-Case-c-1920s-/300845787546?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item460bce699a http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-C-Jeffries-anglo-concertina-/300845787370?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item460bce68ea These were two instruments that sold recently and can be seen on eBay's completed auctions. They were both bought by the same buyer, but his feedback was 6 and this "Seller" is 288 so the likelihood that the auctions are legit is low. And they both have t
  16. Paul, was your old Rushworth & Draper badged Crabb a John Crabb? I remember it as having nice tone and excellent action. Regards, Ross Schlabach
  17. You can get the info you are looking for indirectly at the Suttner Concertina website. On his catalog page, you can access a PDF file for the 31 button Wheatstone C/G button layout and just drop each note by one full step to get the info you are looking for. Understand that (for most concertinas that have not been modified), the only real differences between the Wheatstone and Jeffries note layouts are concentrated on the right hand outside row of buttons and the bottom button on the right hand inside row. Otherwise, the other notes are identical between the two models. Hope that helps,
  18. I don't remember where I heard this, but I remember hearing that Chris is planning to do some home remodelling and was selling off some special tinas to fund the project. If accurate, there's no need to worry for our most prominent concertina dealer AND there may be a once in a lifetime to scoop up rare concertinas. Ross Schlabach
  19. Hi Flo, I was tickled to see your new website and even more pleased to hear you are going to be back at the Southeast Tionol next February. Please bring some of your lovely waltzes for us to learn. Ross Schlabach
  20. OK, Greg has delicately dragged me into this thread, so here goes. I have two 28 button Jeffries concertinas: one C/G and one Bb/F. Lets just focus on the C/G. When you play in the keys of C & G, the 28 button plays just like a 30 button because you don't normally have to venture into the third row. BUT, when you move to the key of D, all bets are off. Trips to the low A and the low C# are expeditions into the great unknown because they are each displaced one position to the bottom from the layout on a 30 button. Greg is correct, these notes require the use of the pinkie or some form of aw
  21. Bmhester, you didn't mention what kind of music you are interested in playing. If Irish or Morris is your primary interest then the logical first choice is an Anglo. If you would want to play in lots of different keys, then an English model might be a better choice. The Anglo play very much like a harmonica with an in/out bellows movement as you go up the scale and notes are in order as you go up the scale on a row. The English model is quite different in that it plays the same note whether you squeeze or pull on the bellows. And notes alternate between the left and right side and between you
  22. For the purpose you mentioned, some of the miniature concertinas would fill the bill. While they are small and have less than 30 buttons, they are fully capable of playing music. Noel Hill plays a very small Jeffries miniature Anglo. Of course miniatures are pitched in higher octaves and usually only have enough notes to support playing in one key, but they can make fabulous music and are quite challenging to play. These do come up for sale from time to time with differing sizes and number of keys. Randy Merris has compiled an interesting history on miniatures but I don't know if it has b
  23. The Dipper Clare model is one of the smallest 30 b models at 5-5/8" but I remember a couple of friends having 30 b Lachenals that may have been smaller. I do remember the latter were too small for my hands but the Dipper is not. And I don't remember if the Lachenals were even C/Gs? The real limiting factors are chamber and reed sizes. To stay in the C/G range, you can only get them so small. While your question may have been exclusively academic, from a practical standpoint an Anglo smaller than the Clare model would likely be very difficult for most players to manage. Just not enough roo
  24. There's a nice one on eBay right now with a Buy It Now price of $1,800 but unfortunately it is located in Kansas USA: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tedrow-C-G-Anglo-30-button-aeola-style-concertina-/190741533598?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c6914d39e Just mentioned it in case...... Ross Schlabach
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