Sandy Winters

Alex, you're right again😊. You don't 'need' to make the ends rounded but they look much nicer and more original if they are. Really a pain to do by hand but very easy with the right size gouges.

Wim Wakker uses the solid brass post action. He converted a hook action 1950's Aeola to his solid post and rivet action for me about 20 years ago.

You are correct (nice website calculator). I was wrong (That's twice)...but still nowhere near the difference that Geoff was calculating, 32 sq. inches vs 25 sq. inches. That's what jumped out at me cuz I was sure that couldn't possibly be true. More concertina minutiae

Hmmm. I could be wrong (it's happened once before) but I think your math is incorrect. Octagon area (6.25 across the flats) should be greater than hexagon 6.25 across the flats.

I've had good luck just cutting valves by hand with a straight edge and good scalpel. Proper width and angle of the wedge shape is no problem. The real difficulty is getting the rounded ends of the valves cut...very difficult and time consuming. The solution is to cut/punch the ends of the valve with curved chisels/gouges of the appropriate size. One wack each end and your done.

Looking to sell my 1923 metal ended tenor-treble Aeola that I purchased from user "Joey Morrow" last April. The instrument clearly had some issues at that time but for the price I decided to take a chance on it. When I received it I found that there were many more issues than I originally was aware of but that's OK because I knew I was taking a chance. The main problem was that there were 15 notes/reeds that were so far out of tune that they were essentially beyond repair. After several phone calls with Wim Wakker and Steve Dickenson (they were both familiar with this particular concertina) I managed to convince Steve to let me send him the offending reed assemblies to have them repaired/replaced. He did a fantastic job. He was able to re-tune a few of the reeds, re-tongued several of them, and replaced the complete reed assembly (reeds w/ new shoes) for several of them. All notes are speaking now. I replaced the chamois gaskets on both ends including the bellows ends (chamois came from Wim). The sound board has a few tight cracks that have been repaired and I notice no evidence of leaks. The bellows seem to be airtight tho the instrument fails the one handed gravity test because there are a few leaky reeds (making the response not quite as crisp as it should be). However, it is now playing well. It is not good enough for professional recording but it is certainly good enough for session playing. What it really needs now is refurbishing....new pads, valves, springs, action and tuning. I've spoken to Bob Snope and he would be willing to do the work. I generally like this instrument. It is perfect for me as a 'players' instrument. Cosmetically it is a bit rough and as such it is not a canditate for full resoration. BUT......it is much heavier than I am used to and larger as well. The extra 8 reed assemblies are all low notes and considerably larger (and heavier) than any other reed on a treble instrument. I just don't want to spend any more money or effort on an instrument that I'm just not physically happy with. Comes with a really nice original case that I bought from forum member Mike from Oban. (cost me $300 with shipping) Asking $2000, with the case but I will consider any reasonable offers. Here is a video shot today 9-2-23

My tenor treble Aeola in my newly acquired case from Mike.....Thanks!!

Hi Mike, sounds good. I'm not in a rush so take your time. I'll PM you my shipping address....I'll need your PAYPAL email/account as well. Thanks!!! Sandy

Hi Mike, thanks for the quick reply. I'm willing to take a chance on it. How do you want to handle payment?? PAYPAL is easiest for me but I can get you the money any way you'd like. Sandy

Mike, Is the Wheatstone case still available? It looks like it will fit my 1923 tener/treble Aeola which measure 7-1/4" X 7-1/2". Any idea how much to ship to USA? Postal code 60033 (Chicago area). Let me know, Thanks!! Sandy W.

Steve Dickenson is a prince......always very helpful. I just spoke with him yesterday.

I have corresponded with Jim regarding this instrument. He tells me that the serial number is 36826 which makes this instrument 1965, not 1951. It does have some history in that it looks to be one of a group of instruments sold to Boris Matusewitch. Here's the page at the Horniman Museum Ledger http://www.horniman.info/DKNSARC/SD03/PAGES/D3P1040S.HTM

Thanks for that. Appreciated

If you intend to play two notes at a time the 4-fold bellows could be a problem, especially in the lower register.

Thanks David...I tried that and found nothing related to the sale. PM's going back 17 years.