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Everything posted by DDF

  1. Hi peter,Glad to here you were enjoying sunny Dorset yesterday.I also spotted a concertina yesterday.I cycled with my wife into the Sturminster Newton festival of cheese and whilst strolling around noticed the back ground music had changed from trad jazz to something more intriguing.This turned out to be a local group called "Teasing the cat".Sun,abottle of locally pressed apple juice and a blue vinney ploughmens all the ingredients for a lovely afternoon.Regards David.
  2. If you have the money and the desire these look nice.http://www.bonhams.com/cgi-bin/public.sh/pubweb/publicSite.r For sale on the 7th october,Regards David.
  3. I was not trying to confuse the issue I just felt Kerry was being a little dismissive of a wood I considered a bit special.Myself and a lot of others would rightly or wrongly describe this veneer as partridge wood.I haven't looked at such things as dates but could it be possible this was made for her as a first instrument when she was a youngster and as she progressed so did the quality of her concertinas? Good job it wasn't made of Harewood,Dogwood or Birdseye.Regards David.
  4. That's interesting, I've only heard of partridge wood once before and that was from a man who was the last of a long line of wooden flute makers - he reckoned it was what a lot of the cheaper antique flutes are made of, that people think are cocuswood (and he should know - since his family made many of them!), but they don't look anything like these ends. They'd remind me more of the lacewood veneer you used to get in railway carriages in Britain... Hi Stephen, you may be right I am only going from memory.Whenever I had an item in "partridge wood" it was of better than than normal quality.Items such as tea caddies and fitted boxes,nearly always dating from between 1800-1900.I have only ever seen it used in veneer which could be either scarcity or more likely as with most heavily figured woods,instability. I think lacewood is from the plane tree and is usually quite pale with less elongated (squarer)whitish markings.Regards David.
  5. Looks like partridge wood and silver a desirable set of materials in the 19th century and would be fitting for someone a bit special.Regards David.
  6. I think it was Alastair Anderson.I was wondering who was responsible for the theme music which probably should have been given to AA to make it more in keeping with the area.David.
  7. If it is contact adhesive remove all the wood and leather, lay a piece of rag or tissue on the glued area place inside a polythene bag and saturate the cloth with acetone leave the bag sealed for approx 1/2 hour the glue will then brush off easily with soap and water.Pretty much the same advice as above but thicker areas of glue need a little soaking to go nice and soft/rubbery.Regards David.
  8. Hi Steve,The only problem you may have with aniline dye is they fade quite quickly in light.unless you are re staining the whole end you may end up with it a bit patchy in a few years.There is a way that is colour fast which I have used lot in the past but I wouldn't recommend it unless you've done a fair amount of french polishing.It is a finish made from old 78s dissolved in methylated spirit which needs to be over coated with many coats of french polish. David
  9. Hi Neil, Once you have used your chosen method of treatment you could do something we used to do with furniture once treated.Take a piece of bees wax and a hot nail or a pointed soldering iron put the tip of the iron just entering the worm hole and touch the bees wax against it.The wax will flow into the cavity.Remove the iron and let the wax cool if the hole is not quite full apply a little more.Once cool remove any excess with your nail or a chisel.If you do not feel confident with a heat source you can warm the bees wax roll into a cone between your fingers then push that into the worm hole.The main purpose for doing this on furniture was that you can the check in the future whether you have stayed on top of the problem as they only make surface holes on the way out.Regards David. PS freezing works well but needs a very low temperature and quite a bit of time.Condensation can be a real nuisance between freezes.If you are not keen on injecting the proprietary killers fumigating with the same killers in a plastic enclosure works well but really takes the longest of all. I wouldn't use a microwave but if you are tempted make sure you remove any metal.
  10. It is surprising the difference in weight all those solid nickel buttons make on a jeffries,even though they are skinny.David.
  11. Hi drbones,Jones 30 key,rosewood with two drones and two novelty keys making it 34 I guess,2lb&12.6oz or1265gms.Pretty light for a largish instrument.Regards David.
  12. Greg, Here is same design in wood, same interior again.Regards David.
  13. Wendy,Here is another Nickolds with very similar internal features to yours.The design on the end seems to be the more typical fret used by them,unfortunately nowhere near as pretty as Gregs.Regards David.
  14. Hi John,A bit of a long shot but it could be connected to John Beare of London(Ithink still in buisness) retailed concertinas at one time. Regards David.
  15. I have used this picture on here before but I never get fed up with seeing these two beauties.One departed shortly after this picture was taken but the other has been a faithful companion for the last 28 years. This picture reminds me of sitting around the garden on a summers evening, something that was in short supply this year.David.
  16. Hi Dirge,Yes and Yes,I have decided to make a set of pads at the weekend and see just what sort of a pigs ear was created out of this silk purse.I reckon it will be the heaviest most unmanagable anglo in existance.But an interesting reminder of how values have changed.Regards David.
  17. Sad bordering on depressing.I took the ends off but it was so upsetting I just took a few more pictures and quickly put them back on.It was a 71 key duet,SN 2176.The "craftsman" who carried out the alteration has not left a calling card,guess he wasn't that poud of his efforts.All I can say is that the previous owners probably should take some of the blame as they certainly didn't give this poor soul salvation.Trying to look on the bright side I guess it would provide a good percentage of parts for someone to make a baritone anglo.But there again it might be best left to serve as sobering lesson of something.David.
  18. This poor feller seems to have had quite a hard life including a couple of" face lifts".My guess on first impressions is maybe it was radically rearranged to make it better balanced for use when standing or marching.I suspect it will be in a bit of a state internally when I open it later.I'm having a bit of trouble uploading images so I may put a few images in additional posts.David.
  19. Tom,I'm not sure whether this will help.After years of not knowing what my Linota's number might be I noticed it purely by chance as it is very faint.When the two halves of the action enclosure are taken apart it is lightly stamped on the top edge of the bottom half of the two pieces,where they would butt up to each other.On the "one o clock" section and only on the right hand end.Hope that makes sense,might be worth a close look.Sorry I don't have a picture handy it might have been less confusing.Regards David.
  20. As has already been said the important thing here is the reeds,but as far as the ends go,they look like they could be nickel plated brass.I think I remember Stephen C saying jeffries were only made with solid german silver and not plated german silver like Wheatstone used.David
  21. Hi Michael,You may find this interesting.Kinda takes it to a new level.Regards David. http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=pkP7KSzgaDw http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=pkP7KSzgaDw
  22. Hi Leo,When I saw him locally last autumn his name was Sherburn,it was a great evening in a local arts centre with Last Nights Fun.He is guesting at the same venue following a violin workshop next month which was how I came to find that video,checking out his collaboration with Bella Hardy.Bridport Arts Centre,Dorset if anyone is curious.Regards David.
  23. I may be wrong but I cannot remember seeing this one on here. http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=TOhOxEaxXqs
  24. I have a 34b Jones which I guess would have been one of there better models.It has steel levers with brass posts and rivets.regard, David.
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