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DDF

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  1. Please check the other topics you started for information.David.
  2. Hope this may be of some help. http://www.concertina.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=6904
  3. Looks like a "Shire"english .Retailed at £250 in 1978. http://www.concertina.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=6904
  4. Thanks Geoff. Roger, I did have a search around but came up blank so came to the font of concertina knowledge where fortunately for me, Geoff was able to oblige.
  5. Can anybody point me in the direction of a chart/button layout for 30 or more buttons in Ab/Eb? Thanks very much if you can.David.
  6. The German troops opposite the Wessex regiment were apparently from west Saxony so I would think there is a good chance they would have had locally made instruments with them.According to Graves even the first year truces were pretty sketchy with lots of regiments not wanting to fraternise. Of course Graves was a magnificent story teller but I would still rather his version than the current tasteless use of these events for advertising Christmas supermarket consumerism.
  7. I was just rereading Robert Graves account of the first Xmas truce and note that he mentions the Germans Sung songs back to our troops accompanied by concertinas.
  8. Alex,I find using cobalt drills(not coated) with some cutting fluid works well for stainless.David.
  9. Most of the rosewood ends seem to be solid but here is a photo of a late almost unused Lachenal with rosewood ends that are laminated.Three plys by the looks of it. David.
  10. Malcolm,As you are in Dorset you probably are already familiar with Pittards in Yeovil(on the road in from Sherborne/Penn mill).They have have a factory shop with a huge selection and very reasonable prices.I did a job a few years back for which I used some lovely thin flexible goat skins from them.When I last visited they had a better selection in the shop than on line,regards David. http://www.pittardsleather.co.uk/leather-skins-amp-leather-hides/c29
  11. There is another interesting R Carr up for sale shortly here. http://gardinerhoulgate.co.uk/Catalogues/mi130314/lot0241.html Might be of interest to someone,David.
  12. Another technique which has not been mentioned but can be very useful, if you have got to the stage where the head has been removed.Measure the gauge of one of the screws already removed and find a piece of( preferably )steel thin walled tube with an inside diameter slightly lager than the screws gauge.File or Dremel some teeth/serations in the end.Use this at a fairly slow speed in a drill to drill a hole around the remains of the screw shank.Withdraw regularly to clear the frass.This hole will follow the screw and leave a nice clean hole for pluging.If you have a lathe this kind of drill can be made very acurately and hardened.In a moment of desperation brass tube as used in radio ariels works well but needs a little more care to prevent overheating and blunting.David.
  13. It might sound a bit drastic but one way which I have used a lot on antique furniture is as follows.Find a nail slightly with a stem slightly narrower than the screw head,grind or file the point off.Hold the head end with pliers or mole grips then heat the cut end with a blow torch until red hot .quickly place the hot cut end against the screw head for a few seconds to allow the heat to transfer to the screw.Do this a couple of times and the scerw will usually lose it grip.The rust will usually enlarged the hole so you may need a slightly larger gauge screw or glue wooden plug in the hole and pilot drill a new hole. A soldering iron would probably be more convienient but they do not seem to tranfer enough heat rapidly enough. Not sure if this is an appropriate solution for your needs but it might be of use to some one.Regards David.
  14. You would think after all this time the seller could at least put up some better photos? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Unique-CG-Anglo-Concertina-Vintage-Wheatstone-/171243008049
  15. Now even closer to £6000 and some wacky new text.
  16. You can check it out here.regards David. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2d6GG1UAbxQ
  17. Now a little under £ 6,000,a most peculiar sales tecnique.
  18. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Unique-CG-Anglo-Concertina-Vintage-Wheatstone-/171218285474
  19. Hi Bruce,I guess if the reeds were not screwed down you wouldn't be able to do what this chap is doing in this video.Another interesting youtube offering, bit radical though.David. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3G38JJgqZ8
  20. Hi Malcolm,This may be of interest.David. http://www.concertina.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=13263&st=0&p=128473&hl=campaign&fromsearch=1entry128473
  21. Hi Chris, It looks to have Lachenal lever posts so that would be my guess,regards David.
  22. Did anyone here buy this in Bainbridges auction today.It would be interesting to see the original 1885 five guinea receipt that was included.
  23. Hi Malcolm, the heat source I used for this was a small hand held gas blow lamp.The temperature needed is around 380C well below the melting point for aluminium.It is also important to do the final preparatory cleaning with a stainless steel wire brush. The source for the "solder" was this specialist company who sell via ebay,but they are apparently on holiday till the 18th. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Sonderlote/_i.html?_nkw=Welding+and+soldering&_trksid=p2045573.c0.m57 There seem to be plenty of similar suppliers on ebay.The most common trade name is Durafix but there are several others. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminium-Welding-Easyweld-Durafix-Single-rod-Kit-/370613389735?pt=UK_BOI_Metalworking_Milling_Welding_Metalworking_Supplies_ET&hash=item564a4789a7 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lumiweld-5-Rod-Kit-Low-Temp-Aluminuim-Repair-/260531563568?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3ca8e42c30
  24. Hi Malcolm, Just out of curiosity I just gave it a go to make sure what I was suggesting was viable.The pictures are pretty poor and Iam doing things mostly with my left hand still.This result took about ten minutes include finding the the bits and pieces.Needs a bit more time practising and cleaning up but definitely an option. http://www.flickr.com/photos/51981381@N04/
  25. Hi Malcolm, I guessed they were aluminium.This is a zinc based solder which leaves you with a repair that is tougher than the aluminium.In reality it may have limited applications but with care would probably make a cheap if fiddly Bastari repair.regards David.
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