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DDF

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Everything posted by DDF

  1. I can't see if you have got the topslide set over @ half the thread angle.If not it would be worth a try as you will only then be cutting on one side of the tool so there is a bit less drag as you feed in on the topslide.You could also make a temporary back steady from hard wood and clamp it to the cross slide put a vee notch in at centre height and keep it against the rear of the job. Brass or nickel would be easier brazing rod is rather hard and springy.Best of luck David.
  2. Oh. Can you point me to a copy of the layout? No but the one I currently have at my place has: (working C row/G row/Accidental row, O/I) Right hand is G#/A#, G/F, C#/F#. Left hand is G#/F, C#/A#, C#/F# Left hand C#s are different octaves. I think mine is RH G#5/A#5,G6/F6,C#5/D#5. LH G#4/Bb4,C#5/F4,C#4/Bb3.There seems to be a bit of variety there?David.
  3. Is this one of those wooden ended Jeffries or is my imagination running wild? I think I remember some discussion on here a while back .Nice project if the reeds are ok. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ANTIQUE-ROSEWOOD-CONCERTINA-ACCORDION-FOR-SPARES-OR-REPAIR-/221767212019?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276
  4. Please check the other topics you started for information.David.
  5. Hope this may be of some help. http://www.concertina.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=6904
  6. Looks like a "Shire"english .Retailed at £250 in 1978. http://www.concertina.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=6904
  7. Thanks Geoff. Roger, I did have a search around but came up blank so came to the font of concertina knowledge where fortunately for me, Geoff was able to oblige.
  8. Can anybody point me in the direction of a chart/button layout for 30 or more buttons in Ab/Eb? Thanks very much if you can.David.
  9. The German troops opposite the Wessex regiment were apparently from west Saxony so I would think there is a good chance they would have had locally made instruments with them.According to Graves even the first year truces were pretty sketchy with lots of regiments not wanting to fraternise. Of course Graves was a magnificent story teller but I would still rather his version than the current tasteless use of these events for advertising Christmas supermarket consumerism.
  10. I was just rereading Robert Graves account of the first Xmas truce and note that he mentions the Germans Sung songs back to our troops accompanied by concertinas.
  11. Alex,I find using cobalt drills(not coated) with some cutting fluid works well for stainless.David.
  12. Most of the rosewood ends seem to be solid but here is a photo of a late almost unused Lachenal with rosewood ends that are laminated.Three plys by the looks of it. David.
  13. Malcolm,As you are in Dorset you probably are already familiar with Pittards in Yeovil(on the road in from Sherborne/Penn mill).They have have a factory shop with a huge selection and very reasonable prices.I did a job a few years back for which I used some lovely thin flexible goat skins from them.When I last visited they had a better selection in the shop than on line,regards David. http://www.pittardsleather.co.uk/leather-skins-amp-leather-hides/c29
  14. There is another interesting R Carr up for sale shortly here. http://gardinerhoulgate.co.uk/Catalogues/mi130314/lot0241.html Might be of interest to someone,David.
  15. Another technique which has not been mentioned but can be very useful, if you have got to the stage where the head has been removed.Measure the gauge of one of the screws already removed and find a piece of( preferably )steel thin walled tube with an inside diameter slightly lager than the screws gauge.File or Dremel some teeth/serations in the end.Use this at a fairly slow speed in a drill to drill a hole around the remains of the screw shank.Withdraw regularly to clear the frass.This hole will follow the screw and leave a nice clean hole for pluging.If you have a lathe this kind of drill can be made very acurately and hardened.In a moment of desperation brass tube as used in radio ariels works well but needs a little more care to prevent overheating and blunting.David.
  16. It might sound a bit drastic but one way which I have used a lot on antique furniture is as follows.Find a nail slightly with a stem slightly narrower than the screw head,grind or file the point off.Hold the head end with pliers or mole grips then heat the cut end with a blow torch until red hot .quickly place the hot cut end against the screw head for a few seconds to allow the heat to transfer to the screw.Do this a couple of times and the scerw will usually lose it grip.The rust will usually enlarged the hole so you may need a slightly larger gauge screw or glue wooden plug in the hole and pilot drill a new hole. A soldering iron would probably be more convienient but they do not seem to tranfer enough heat rapidly enough. Not sure if this is an appropriate solution for your needs but it might be of use to some one.Regards David.
  17. You would think after all this time the seller could at least put up some better photos? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Unique-CG-Anglo-Concertina-Vintage-Wheatstone-/171243008049
  18. Now even closer to £6000 and some wacky new text.
  19. You can check it out here.regards David. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2d6GG1UAbxQ
  20. Now a little under £ 6,000,a most peculiar sales tecnique.
  21. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Unique-CG-Anglo-Concertina-Vintage-Wheatstone-/171218285474
  22. Hi Bruce,I guess if the reeds were not screwed down you wouldn't be able to do what this chap is doing in this video.Another interesting youtube offering, bit radical though.David. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3G38JJgqZ8
  23. Hi Malcolm,This may be of interest.David. http://www.concertina.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=13263&st=0&p=128473&hl=campaign&fromsearch=1entry128473
  24. Hi Chris, It looks to have Lachenal lever posts so that would be my guess,regards David.
  25. Did anyone here buy this in Bainbridges auction today.It would be interesting to see the original 1885 five guinea receipt that was included.
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