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DDF

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Everything posted by DDF

  1. Patrick,That broken end is solid wood most boxes concertina or otherwise will be veneer.It also appears to be Brazilian rosewood so a lot more difficult to match successfully it will play fine with the end as is so I shouldn't be in a hurry to repair with anything inappropriate,all the best David.
  2. Hello Patrick,The grooves are for lining the pads up when building the concertina or replacing the pads.Without it is very difficult to place the pads evenly over the holes.If you have not worked in rosewood before there are a couple of things to be aware of it is hard and oily so glueing and polishing is more of an issue than something like mahoany.It smells beautiful when worked(a bit like roses) but is bad for your lungs so mask and ventilation are agood idea.If you use old wood maybe salvaged from furniture sand the surface before starting as the wood tends to go a lot darker, same with the existing concertina end,expect that to darken when you prepare for refinishing.It is best to try and get replacement wood as near to matching the original as possible as stain doesn't really work that well on rosewood. As others have said here it is a rare instrument and could be easily devalued not just from a finacial point of view .Good luck whatever you decide to do,David.
  3. Savills do a few sizes.David. http://hesavill.co.uk/epages/8bb127b2-081b-4bc3-9e31-4040ca85194b.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/8bb127b2-081b-4bc3-9e31-4040ca85194b/Products/L.245
  4. My dog happily lays around tolerating Irish music but anything with a hint of English seems to upset her. https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=!AN4p3CU9Fe_h3ls&cid=A9CC7475AF810A94&id=a9cc7475af810a94!132&parId=A9CC7475AF810A94!130&o=OneUp
  5. https://www.pittards.com/about/contact-us/
  6. I have no particular connection with Pittards but the prices seem to me very reasonable if you want to practice making bellows.They do a lot of glove leather so if you take along a vernier gauge there is a pretty good chance of finding what you need.I think I paid £19 per skin for B grade.One skin will provide plenty of material for a set of seven fold anglo bellows.As Steve say you'll have to do your own skiving/paring.David.
  7. Hi Matt,Probably not to far for you to pop down to Yeovil where Pittards are based.they have a large factory shop with hundreds of skins all graded so you can buy ones with scars or offcuts very reasonably.I was there last week and bought a half calf hide for cases but in the past I have bought quite a few nice goat skins and and they do nice £4 hide offcuts(or maybe they are samples) which are big enough for several sets of hand straps.Hope that is some help,David. https://www.pittards.com/shop-leather/
  8. If you down load the image onto a memory card /stick,cd or such like and take it to a print shop/ photo shop/library or any one with a reasonable laser printer I think you'll find the results can be pretty good and can be sealed for even more durability.But it does need to be a laser printer not inkjet.With ordinary paper inkjet printing tends to dye the paper whereas laser lays the printing medium on top of the paper more like a proper print.Not great for photos but not bad for labels etc. I drew some bellows papers last year and laser printed them in an office laser printer and was very pleased with the results.David.
  9. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Concertina-Letter-/172100414203?hash=item2811fbeafb:g:lz4AAOSwDuJWvys3
  10. I just thought I would mention this cd which I received as a birthday gift.It is not the type of music that I would normally buy but having heard and enjoyed them on radio threes The Late Junction a while back I was glad to get this gift.They were in the Late Junction Studio live last week so there are some clips available for listening.Also plenty on Youtube.David. http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b006tp52
  11. I expect it has been measured across the corners.David.
  12. Not sure if this has been spotted before? @1.36 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yWCcLW08dsU
  13. I just thought this may be of interest to someone thinking of making a leather case or wanting to do a repair to an old one.They look to be good quality, but if anyone wants more details I have just ordered one and would be happy to give my impression when I receive it.Wishing you all a wonderful 2016.David. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231353595923?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
  14. If you have access to a lathe I have found a reasonable way to make levers is with a slitting saw.I measure the cuts with the topslide dial and make the final centre cuts with a scroll saw then tidy up with filing.The posts are better made from half hard or hard brass then a bit of tapping in doesn't seem to effect them.David.
  15. There at the moment four editions on their player. http://www.tg4.ie/en/player/home/?pid=4626567972001&title=Hup&series=Hup
  16. I would think it always had metal ends of some sort as the side wooden parts don't appear to be "split"or made in two parts.There seem to be quite a few metal ended concertinas this age without the tops crimped so its probably how it was made.David.
  17. I think they are popular in south Africa?David. http://manningsmusicals.co.uk/concertina/40-key-cg-anglo-concertina-by-crabb-1972/
  18. Les, check out Chris Sherburn.When I saw him a few years back he was playing good irish music and only had four folds on his Wheatstone anglo if memory serves me correctly.David.
  19. It would be interesting to see inside it if anybody here bought it.I also thought it might have started off as a Jones .When I blew up the pictures I thought I might have be looking at Jones type lever post.
  20. Maybe that one wasn't bought by a dealer? Maybe it wasn't unrestored.http://www.concertina.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=17995
  21. Hello Pete,if you happen to have more time than sense you could always try something I did recently.I have had a couple of those 39 key McCanns around for years and have often thought of trying to do something with them other than let them get split up for reeds.Earlier this year I spent many a happy hour tinkering with the identical model to yours and ended up with this.I learnt a lot but wouldn't really recommend it as the end result still only has quite low grade Lachenal reeds.Regards David.
  22. I made a few of the Linota style thumbscrews recently .I used the same process except I used some scrap 16mm stainless steel bar instead of nickel.The original nickel ones always suffer with a verdigris build up which the s/s ones shouldn't.David.
  23. I can't see if you have got the topslide set over @ half the thread angle.If not it would be worth a try as you will only then be cutting on one side of the tool so there is a bit less drag as you feed in on the topslide.You could also make a temporary back steady from hard wood and clamp it to the cross slide put a vee notch in at centre height and keep it against the rear of the job. Brass or nickel would be easier brazing rod is rather hard and springy.Best of luck David.
  24. Oh. Can you point me to a copy of the layout? No but the one I currently have at my place has: (working C row/G row/Accidental row, O/I) Right hand is G#/A#, G/F, C#/F#. Left hand is G#/F, C#/A#, C#/F# Left hand C#s are different octaves. I think mine is RH G#5/A#5,G6/F6,C#5/D#5. LH G#4/Bb4,C#5/F4,C#4/Bb3.There seems to be a bit of variety there?David.
  25. Is this one of those wooden ended Jeffries or is my imagination running wild? I think I remember some discussion on here a while back .Nice project if the reeds are ok. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ANTIQUE-ROSEWOOD-CONCERTINA-ACCORDION-FOR-SPARES-OR-REPAIR-/221767212019?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276
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