Theo

Yes and no, but mainly no. The cost to build a new one would be much much higher, probably a few thousand, but the value of it now is as much as someone is willing to pay. As far as I can understand it is an obscure variant of a class of concertina than is played in a few niche genres. My guess is if you really want to sell it you might need to lower your expectations. A practical suggestion is to search eBay for completed sales, see what price similar instruments have sold for.

Steve’s advice above is absolutely spot on. Using superglue (or any other glue) alone is definitely second best.

Classical music is also possible on the anglo. https://livestream.com/uol/final-recitals-17/videos/157705262 from about 5:30

I came across G H Leather recently. I haven't tried contacting them yet.

I think I’ll find this very useful for describing instruments for sale. Would you like use elsewhere to be credited?

The Reverb listing says USA. It's a nice find, some of Lachenals best anglos were around this number of buttons. The crosshead screws in the action boards show that it's had work done on it much more recently than 1913!

I have one that seems to be from the same family but in this case a large size 37 key tenor New Model.

Strictly speaking this is not a German made anglo, it is just a German concertina. The anglo was based on the German note layout but using English construction methods, hence the name Anglo-German which has become contracted to "Anglo"

As a temporary fix you can get a valve a bit flatter by gently stroking the surface with the flat blade of a screwdriver or similar tool. It slightly stretches the top surface which can straighten out a curved valve. Useful as a quick fix in the field, but may curl again soon.

sold elsewhere

Are you sure there is air leaking through this gap? If there is then the note would be very difficult or even impossible to play. An easy way to test is to cover the hole completely with stick tape and see if that makes a significant difference.

Hohner International branded 48 key English concertina, probably made for Hohner by Bastari (the predecessor of Stagi) in Italy. This is potentially a nice starter English concertina, but needs some work to get it playing well. The accordion type reeds are steel on aluminium plates and arranged with folding wings on each side (see photos) to fit in all the reeds and keep the instrument compact. All reeds work, some are out of tune, and many have noisy valves, so it will need valves replaced and tuning. Bellows look good with very little sign of wear. Most of the washers from the end bolts are lost and need to be replaced. The bolts are M3 so new matching washers should be easy to find. It comes in a Hohner branded box which I assume it was sold with from new. Woodwork on the right side has suffered some trauma near the Hohner name – see photo. The white marks on the first two photos are just reflections. Price £120 including UK delivery Donation to c.net if sold here so please let me know that you found this advert.

Pressed felt doesn't wear as well as woven felt. It has been used by at least one melodeon manufacturer to bush bass buttons. I've had to replace these quite often on instruments that are not that old. Busing concertina buttons is a somewhat tedious job, you don't want to have to replace them every decade or two! I think pressed felt is also generally softer than woven felt so concertina buttons might have more sideways movement, which is not conducive to good playing. Using 2mm felt compressed to 1mm would be more stable, but how do you stop the felt expanding back to its original size and making the buttons tight. Much better to just use the correct material in the first place.

Microvox concertina mics and power supply for sale, used of course, these have been out of production for a while. The setup consists of two electret mics permanently wired into a box that provides power from a pp3 battery and combines the two mic signals and outputs via a jack socket. The mics are fastened to the instrument with velcro, and there is spare velcro included. There is also a padded storage case that holds the mics and power supply. Price £60 including UK postage.

The advantage of an auction is that you can allow the market to decide. Have you considered using an auction format instead of a buy it now?

Melton may be slightly heavier in gsm, possibly slight thicker as a result of that. I think the surface texture is different too. Doeskin has a more pronounced nap so it haas a slightly more glossy appearance. Important if you are making clothing or furnishings, but not relevant for bushing concertina buttons.

Chris, Doeskin sounds as if it should be leather, but it’s actually a trade name for a woollen fabric with a felted surface and perfect for concertina bushes. The surface has a visible nap which gives it a passing resemblance to short hair on an animal skin. I think that appearance is why they chose the name.

I've just ordered some Hainsworth doeskin. Minimum order is now 2m so if anyone wants to take some I'd be pleased to split the material at cost.

I agree with the repairman’s conclusion. It’s not worth trying to rescue this concertina. This was a cheap concertina when it was made using low quality materials. Most of what you would learn from attempting repairs would not be applicable to working on a better quality instrument. If you do manage to repair the action you will find even more frustrations await you when you move on to dealing with the reeds, and the bellows.

You might be able to see the spring under the wooden lever? Usually the spring is fixed to the underside of the lever by having the end of the spring bent at a right angle and spiked into the wooden lever, like a nail. You might be able to get a small thin screwdriver under the remaining part of the spring to lever it out. The new spring can be pressed into the same hole as the old one. Neither of these operations is easy and there is a risk of damaging the wooden components which are quite fragile.

To start with get a smal piece of cotton wool, tease it out one a thin rope the length of the glue joint. Soak it in water and lay it along the joint on the inside, non-veneered side. Leave it for a couple hours. If that doesn’t release the joint then try Wally Carrols idea of the iron over a wet cloth. If the glue appears milky white after soaking it is pva. Unless you are very unlucky and the glue is waterproof the water and warmth should release the joint.

You have the origil label? If so why replace it with new?

Just to be clear the parts you are asking about are "valves". Pads are something else.

Maybe it's not the same note pushing and pulling? Wouldn't be the first time an auctioneer misdescribed a concertina.🤯

Or modify the case. The original photo shows thane screw has enough space, just need to remove some padding to clear the other.