Jump to content

Wally Carroll

Members
  • Posts

    55
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Wally Carroll

  1. Alcohol can dissolve certain finishes such as French Polish (shellac) and can soften lacquer finishes. Definitely make sure you don't get any of this on your instruments.
  2. I recently made this change to both the reed pans and action/pad boards in order to better keep the pieces from warping. It works really well. That being said, warped pieces are often not a problem as they are usually flattened out sufficiently when the instrument is bolted together. I would only go the route I outlined above if you are unable to get a good seal after bolting the instrument together.
  3. Thanks Bruce! I think I was missing the second step. I was choosing the pic but didn't realize I also had to to hit the attach button.
  4. Thanks Bruce! I think I was missing the second step. I was choosing the pic but didn't realize I also had to to hit the attach button.
  5. Sorry, can't get the photo to attach. I've tried several times now. It might be too large. Anyone know how to lower the resolution on an iPhone?
  6. Sorry to be a little late on this . . . In my experience the only way to really keep it flat is to somewhat crush the wood fibers by bending it in the opposite direction. See photo. A few notes on the process . . . Make sure the paper towels are damp and touching the pans. A damp sponge would probably work better. Apply a small amount of pressure to start the flattening then walk away for an hour. Add a little more pressure and redampen towels if needed then walk away for another hour. Repeat this process until you go about 1/8" - 3/16" past flat. Remove towels and leave for 24 hours. Next day remove all pressure and let it sit for a few hours. You may need to reclamp and take it even further. Please be extremely careful when doing this as you can easily crack the pan!
  7. This instrument is still available. The seller has lowered the price to $4500. I've attached a picture below. This instrument will ship from the Carroll Concertinas factory. Thanks!
  8. On behalf of a client, I am selling Carroll Concertina #168. This instrument has a brand new exterior (woodwork, buttons, action, and bellows). The reedpans are from an older instrument where the original owner had ordered an extra set of reedpans and now the current owner has decided to have a second instrument made out of the extra pans. This instrument is a Walnut Burl Wheatstone Design in the key of Bflat/F. This instrument has a lovely warm tone and is a fast player. Please PM me if interested or contact me through www.carrollconcertinas.com. Also, an appropriate donation to C'Net will be made in the event of a sale. Sorry but I wasn't able to attach a photo through the mobile version of the website. Contact me for a photo. Thanks, Wally
  9. I just added a couple of files Edel Fox sent me playing her small size Carroll Concertina at last year's Willie Clancy week. They are in the middle of the page at: http://www.carrollconcertinas.com Also, I will be at Willie Clancy this year for the second half of the week (Wed. through Sat). If anyone is interested in meeting up, send me a message. Wally
  10. Maugham is one of my favorite authors as well. Sadly he is not read much on this side of the pond. I haven't read the "Moon and Sixpence" in many years and didn't recognize this passage so I think it is safe to say that it must have been before I developed an interest in concertinas. Over the past 15 years or so I have been slowly making my way through Maugham's works. Currently I am reading "The Narrow Corner." That is to say, I will soon be reading it . . . it has been sitting on the side of my bed for two weeks now in the "on deck" position and my Tivo recordings are nearly exhausted so it will be any day now that I begin.
  11. Hey all, if anyone is going to be in the Cincinnati, Ohio area, I'm going to be hosting Noel Hill for a house concert on Sunday August 12th at 7pm. PM me if you would like to attend and I can send you more details. Thanks, Wally Carroll
  12. We're going to do the concert again this year at my home on Thursday August 4th. Noel will start at 7pm. A session will follow. For mapping purposes, my address is 912 Squire Oaks Dr., Villa Hills, KY 41017. Please let me know if you are planning on attending - either PM, email or call 513-604-1340. If you are travelling, this would be a great opportunity to also attend the Dublin, OH Irish Fest which is the weekend after the concert and is about 2 hours away. Also, if anyone is interested, I can arrange for a tour of the new shop earlier on Thursday. Thanks and Hope to see you there! Wally
  13. Greg Jowaisas does not know that I am writing this but I think you who are in the market for a high quality instrument should know about the Lachenal he is selling. I believe it is a 40 button c/g. It has metal ends and has a great tone and response. This is not your typical Lachenal. I have seen 1 or 2 others of this calibre and it is easily worth $4000 if not much more. I'm not sure if Greg posted it here but I'm sure he would send pictures if you contact him. Wally
  14. It can be done either way though it is much easier accomplished if the embossing/stamping is done before the leather is attached to the frames. On an instrument such as a Jeffries where you have lines that go all the way around the bellows, you almost have to do the embossing/stamping first. If you look closely at a Jeffries bellows near the corners, you can sometimes see in the lines where the pattern breaks and begins again. The Suttner (discussed above) might be able to be stamped though it would be a difficult job (unless new end runs were made up with the stamping done first). Also, it should be noted that not all leathers take stamping well, and if there was a finish applied to the bellows, this also might present problems. I'm not certain but I seem to recall that Bob Tedrow might have mentioned somewhere that he does his stamping after the leather is attached to the frames. If this is true, and if you want to keep the original leather I would have him do the job for you rather than a local bookbinder. Otherwise, have Greg make up new endruns and attach them for you. Wally
  15. Sounds interesting. So what's the life expectancy of the foam Wally? Hopefully it's longer than the foam gasket that's commonly used on accordions, but probably not as long as chamois... I just did a quick check and wasn't able to immediately find anything on projected life expectancy. I do know that it is commonly used for making gaskets. Regardless, in this case chamois is not doing the job. As was stated earlier, chamois works well when you have a relatively good fit, but doesn't work as well when the parts don't fit cleanly together. EVA, and similar foams, have the benefit of greater compressibility with good resilience. Wally
  16. I agree with Ardie - don't use glue. The perimeter of the new gasket lays on top of the bellows frame and the bolt holes that you punch in will keep the whole thing lined up correctly. You can get the foam in black. Two stores in the US that carry the material are Michael's and Hobby Lobby. I believe they are both national chains. Get the type that is not self-adhesive as you don't want it to be attached permanently.
  17. Check first the potential problem that Chris identified and correct as needed. If that doesn't do it, I agree with Ardie's suggestion and I suggest using 2mm EVA foam. Here in the U.S. this can be found in just about any craft store (not sure about Ireland). I would go one step further by cutting out a hexagon that will fit over the bellows frame on top of the reedpan then punch out the bolt holes. At this point don't cut out any other holes but instead screw the instrument together and let it sit for several hours (of course you won't be able to play it because all of the air holes will be blocked). Later, open it up and remove the foam which now will have an indentation of the reedpan walls on it. Using a razor blade, cut out the areas that aren't compressed and you will have a gasket that fits perfectly over the reedpans while leaving the action board exposed in the same manner as the original chamois gasket does. Wally
  18. After resisting for a couple of years I've finally gotten with the program and put up a Facebook page. I guess the easiest way to get to it would be to go to http://www.facebook.com and Search for Carroll Concertinas. I am hoping that this will allow me to more easily provide updates on which instruments we are working on and what is going on in the shop. Of immediate interest on my page is a very nice video that Chris Stevens uploaded of him playing "Galway Rambler" on his small size instrument. Wally
  19. David, I'll be leaving next Monday, March 8th. Just a short trip. Snorre: My cell phone number is 513 604 1340 I don't have the schedule so I don't know the dates of the events you listed but if you would like to meet up give me a call or an email. I will also be in Dublin on Sunday March 7th. Guillame (from a different thread): we are offering the small instrument in Bflat/F as well. Wally
  20. I'll be at the Corofin music fest in Co. Clare this Thursday and Friday. If anyone would like to meet up for a pint, send me a pm from here or an email through my website. I'll have the small art deco instrument with me if anyone would like to try it out. Wally Carroll Concertinas
  21. Johann, Two factors immediately come to mind that would make it difficult to create titanium tongues. The first is finding sheet stock in the appropriate thicknesses that is also of the correct spring temper. I know that there are titanium springs so it should be theoretically possible to create such sheets - I just don't know if it is being done. Second, as far as my process is concerned, the material would need to be magnetic in order to attach it to the magnetic chuck on the surface grinder that is used to grind the profiles on the tongues. I believe that titanium can be slightly magnetic depending on the particular alloy used, but the stuff I use for the shoes, definitely is not and I'm not sure if the other alloys would be magnetic enough to stay on the chuck while the material is being ground. The tongues could of course be hand filed to the correct profile, but the material is pretty hard on files. For me, I'm not sure that any advantage in weight savings (which would be sleight) or in the material not being susceptible to rusting would be significant enough to make the experiment worthwhile. Wally
  22. The initial reason why I experimented with creating titanium reed shoes was for reducing the weight of the instrument. I chose titanium over aluminum for several reasons: 1) titanium is stronger than aluminum and is less likely to deflect into the reed tongue with changes in humidity, 2) the strength of the material also allows a tighter fit into the reedpan which gives stronger sounding notes, 3) titanium is more easily machined with the specific type of process that I use to create the shoes, and 4) aluminum is unpleasant to work with (very gummy). Regarding tone: we have now made two instrument with titanium shoes, and to me, they sound the same as brass shoes, however, the titanium instruments are noticeably lighter thereby making them easier to handle. I am still working out whether this will be offered as an option and at what price. Titanium is significantly more expensive than brass and the machining time is also much greater. -Wally
×
×
  • Create New...