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richard

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Everything posted by richard

  1. Thank you Stephan I am mildly comforted by the fact that my other handle does have the LINOTA stamp on it. I guess concertinas go through all kinds of events, mishaps and misfortunes in their long lives and hopefully survive singing, like us. Richard
  2. Hello folks I have a mystery on my hands. There is a lovely looking Lachenal on e bay that has a logo and words stamped (?) on one of its handles. It looks somewhat like this: TRADE ENGLISH MAKE MARK and in the middle is a diagram-like image of a reed in its frame. Here is the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...3747095433&rd=1 I am very curious because my Wheatstone Linota (1932) has the same logo and words on one of its handles. My question are.... Does my Wheatstone have a Lachenal handle on it? Or Vice versa? Thanks Richard
  3. Hi Yes I saw that thread and I now own a pair of "GRIPMASTER" medium tension. You can Google them and find the best price. I have been using them a bit. I think just playing though is a pretty good workout! After a five day workout at Noel Hill's School in Oregon I didn't need to use them for a while.Or at least my hands asked me not to!! Richard
  4. Hello I just adjusted some of my valves on an Anglo. They were glued right up to the "voicing hole" so I pulled them back a bit so they the hole could open fully. Now there is a bit of an echoey effect when I play the same button while reversing bellows direction. I believe this is from the valves being a bit bent away from the hole. Is this a correct assumption? How can I fix this problem? The valves are new. Will time and gravity fix the problem, or can I help it along? Thanks, Richard
  5. Hello Does any one have any good tips from experience on how to successuyl adjust existing springs to give them more resistence. Some buttons on my Lachenal are a bit more "mushy" and I am wondering if a bit more resistence would help give me more control in the response and timing of those notes. Thanks Richard
  6. Hello I'm sorry for such a big question..... I would like to find out more about Lachenal instruments. specifically Anglos. I have seen a variety of types (especially on Ebay) and wonder what were the different models and their hiearchy of quality. specifically I have noticed more ornate nicer looking wooden ends, and less ornate ends. Was there a time frame in their production that consistently produced better quality instrument? What determines a very good quality Lachenal as opposed to an average one. Would even a very good Lachenal be mediocre? It seems there are some that at least have a nice tone going for them? Is there some study or article someone could refer me to? Thanks Richard
  7. Hello I have some reeds that are a little slow on my old Lachenal. I would like to try to adjust the gap myself, but I don't want to do any damage either. Would people suggest the best technique and process for adjusting the gap on a reed. I know the reed should be bent up or down. But do you push up on the tip of the reed, the base of the reed or along the entire length of the reed? What is a good tool to use for this? How do I know if I have made any changes while doing the bending , as opposed to not changing the gap, or making to much change or ruining the reed? Thanks Richard
  8. Hello I have just bought a lovely sounding 20 button Lachenal Anglo with rosewood ends. It is #39166. The label that is on the baffle paper and showed through the oval hole on the right side says: J. WALLIS patent Concertinas 135 Euston Road NW LONDON I would like to find out anything about this dealer. I am also curious if there is any document on the various dealers who sold Lachenals under their names. Thanks, Richard
  9. Hi Lisa I have been taking chances with buying a few Scholer (East German) 20 buttton concertinas on e bay. Some can be very playable and portable and not to precious as long as you don't pay too much. It is also the kind of instrument that many begin on and realize they want more, then move up to a better instrument. I think something like that would be perfect for a boat ride. I also like how some of the marbalized plastic veneered models look. One could imagine oneself blasting off into outer space inside one of them! VERY MID-TWENTIETH CENTURY! I would have the e bay seller call you up and play all the notes over the phone, then if they sound ok and not to weezy don't pay more than $50-$100 US dollars for it. Richard
  10. Hello Does anyone have any knowledge and/or information on Scholer concertinas. I'm curious about their history and how anyone feels they compare to other concetinas of that type. Thanks, Richard
  11. Hello One button on my Linota gets stuck or locked when it is tipped at too much of an angle. What is happening is the button is sticking out too high so the bottom of the button gets caught at the top edge of the hole in the board. Someone suggested I bend the arm which holds the button a little. That sounds too drastic. Could the felt inside the button slot be to thick? Does any one have any suggestions why this happens and what the best way to fix it is ? Thanks, Richard
  12. Hello folks I have been investigating 20 button German Anglo concertinas for fun,portability, and for a differerent sound than a London made Anglo(of course). I am wondering is there a consensus of which of the German or Italian brands were/are superior in sound, durablility and playablility? Are older ones better? Is there a type or brand that anyone has a sentimental attachment to for their distinctive sound? Which brand was most used in Ireland? I had a Harmona which was a bit shrill. What about the other brands. old and new? I observe John Williams playing a Scholer on his tutorial. That would have some crediblity with me. Thanks Richard
  13. Hello I just ordered new Anglo wrist straps. They are 1" wide at the widest part (the part covering the back of my hand). The straps I have now and like are 1 1/4 " wide at the widest. I think I would like to stick to the wider shape. There is more surface area making contact with my hand and the pressure more distributed. Maybe a smaller surface is better? Does it make any difference. Sorry about my concern over what might seem like frivilous minutia. Thanks, Richard
  14. Hello Folks My main instrument is a 30 button Wheatstone Anglo. I have just acquired 2 inexpensive 20 button, double reeded German Anglos for fun and to have a different sound. It is a strange feeling when switching back and forth. I am wondering what other's experience is: whether playing on the 20 button Germans is helpful or detrimental to my 30 button Anglo playing. Perhaps it is good for my brain and reinforces the muscle memory of my fingers and hands? OR Perhaps not. Perhaps it is harmless? I'd rather not confuse my hands and brain if it means not enhancing or impairing my 30 button playing. How about folks who play English and Anglo, and/or other sorts of concertinas? Thanks, Richard
  15. Hello folks I'm off to Hawaii for a week in June on my Honeymoon. I don't want to leave home without one so I am planning on bringing my wood ended Geuns/Wakker Anglo. I live in San Francisco where there is some humidity already. Should I be worried about the humidity in Hawaii having detrimental effects on my instrument, the concertina? Thanks, Richard
  16. Hello My Linota's hand straps has the hooks on a pivot that one pushes down into a hole in the straps, inorder to adjust them. As opposed to the buttons that you screw in with your fingers. Does that make sense? I have alot of trouble with these. I keep having to bend the point of the hook into the strap hole with a pliers and eventually it will probably break. My question is would it be awful to replace these with screw device?I guess I would screw it in to the bottom end of the handle? Would that be sacreligeous? Does anyone have that same problem? What was your solution? Thanks Richard
  17. Hello Folks A photo that always inspired me way before I took up the Anglo was a photo of the great french painter George Braque playing his concertina in his studio. This version isn't so clear but it's the best I can do. The photo is in the Picasso retrospective catalog (ca. 1980) at the NYMoma.
  18. Thanks, stephen for the elucidation. I wasn't sure if I should call it a melodion or button accordion. I acquired it before I found myself intoxicated by the concertina, and at this point I can't do both. For anyone interested I will try to put a photo. Thanks Richard
  19. Hello If anyone would like to know of recordings of John Kelly that I believe are still in print there are 4 tracks on OSSIAN PUBLICATIONS "Folk Music and Dances of Ireland" (which is supposed to accompany the book). Three tracks are fiddle and one is the concertina. Richard
  20. HELLO I HAVE A PAOLO SOPRANI BUTTON ACCORDION IN THE KEY OF B FOR SALE. IT HAS ONE ROW OF 9 BUTTONS PLUS A ROW OF 3 BUTTONS THAT HAVE NOTES IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION TO BE ABLE TO PLAY WITH LESS BELLOWS CHANGE. THERE ARE TWO BASS BUTTONS ON THE OTHER SIDE. IT HAS ONE STOP THAT ADDS A THIRD, LOWER REED TO THE TWO ALREADY THAT SOUND WHEN PLAYING. IT HAS A LIGHT COLORED WOOD EXTERIOR.IT LOOKS AND PLAYS GREAT! I CAN SEND PHOTOS. AS OF 5-3-04 IT IS STILL AVALAILABLE I WOULD LIKE TO GET $400.00 FOR IT. I AM LOCATED IN SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA. THANKS RICHARD
  21. Hey Someone told me of over hearing a couple of tourists referring to him playing his concertina in a park and saying "Look, Martha, he's playing the push fiddle." Richard
  22. Hello Anyone have a used copy of John William's Anglo concertina video? Thanks Richard richardgldbrg@aol.com
  23. Hello If you would be interested in a REALLY exciting and lovely recording of music for set dancing try the recently released Tipsy House recording (featuring wonderful Anglo concertina player Jack Gilder). It is called "SETS IN THE CITY"It was created with the San Francisco set dancing group in mind and with their support. Here is a link. http://www.tipsyhouse.com/t_recordings.html Richard
  24. Hello This is Richard the lad who initiated this thread. I have the basic information concerning the other Linota which I was comparing mine to. It is: #30439 1925 Linota model #88 36 button, NP, C/G Thanks
  25. Hello This is from Richard. The number of my Linota ( from between 1930 and 1933) is #32695. I don't have the number of my teacher's instrument presently. I tried the photo again but it is too big to fit Thanks Richard
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