BrokenBox

@d.elliott, @Alex West I've managed to remove the broken ends of the screws from the frames. Would either of you gentlemen happen to know what size they might be to get replacements? I've measured the outside diameter and thread pitch the best I can and the nearest (but not quite...) standard I can find is 1/16" BSW. I think also BSW may have been the only standard thread at the time the concertina was made? But I'm not sure the bolts are standard anything. It's a Rock Chidley, serial 3631 and 3634; I'm guessing 1858-ish.

I am still trying to restore my poor old Rock Chidley and am stripping the reed pans to replace all the bent and curly valves. However on the left pan (the only one I've tackled thus far) three of the reed clamping screws have snapped off whilst removing the reed frames. Admittedly I may have caught one screw with a screwdriver, but one screw simply fell off onto the table without being touched and one came away whist pulling the frame out with my fingers. I wasn't expecting the frame screws to be so fragile, even after 170 years or so. What do I do? Does anyone have spare Rock Chidley reeds? Are they interchangeable from other concertinas? Can I get replacement screws and keep the frames and tongues? All advice welcome. I didn't realise restoring a concertina would be such an emotional roller coaster...

@Tiposx , you were right! Complete set of new pads and a piece of leather to cut all new sampers on order. I also thought I might as well treat it to all new valves while I'm at it. And new gaskets. And new straps. And new baffles... At least, with it being a budget model, I don't have to reline the holes in the fretwork ends!

Thank you @Rod Pearce, that is most useful! I'm measuring very worn valves so I wondered is they may have started a bit thicker. The concertina is mostly brass reeds, which I believe may require thinner valves than steel reeds, but I've never worked on a concertina before so I am feeling my way as I go and any reference values are really helpful. Do you have a thickness for your sampers and also for the leather layer of the pads, by any chance? My sampers measured at 0.5mm which seems very thin although the pads are quite flexible to a couple of degrees from the horizontal.

Thanks @AndyNT. Forwarned is forearmed; I'll order one!

I'm currently trying to work out how thin the leather should be. If anyone with more experience wants to give me a reality check, it would be appreciated. As far as I can tell, with my micrometer, protractor and ruler, I need the following: 10 x 15mm valves, 0.2mm thick 44 x 19mm valves, 0.3mm thick 32 x 23mm valves, 0.4mm thick 8 x 25mm valves, 0.45mm thick 2 x 29mm valves, 0.45mm thick My intention is to cut some down as the existing valves are slightly smaller than standard in some cases. I will glue them with Button Polish, left out to thicken up, per a previous thread. (I.e. shellac.) I also want to re-pad and will specify 0.4mm leather for the facing, unless anyone knows different? As Cornish do not sell the small circle of leather that goes on top of the pad I am thinking to buy a piece of 0.5mm leather and cut discs with a standard paper punch as this would be virtually the same diameter as the existing leather circles. Does this all make sense? Having no experience, I don't know if I'm measuring squashed leather and should be specifying thicker? It is for a 48 key Rock Chidlley (budget model) EC.

Yes, I saw that thread and rang C A Cornish and spoke to Lynda. She said she had to change the grade of leather for valves as the supply dried up which probably post dates the thread. I'll be ordering a full set of valves and pads once I've sorted out what i need.

Thanks @Rod Pearce, I emailed concertina-spares a while ago but didn't get a reply. C A Cornish have sent me a list which seems to fit the bill. My only issue is I have to specify the "substance" I require for the valve and the pad facing. I'll have to work out what that means...

Firstly, thank you to everyone who gave advice on replacing gaskets. Attached is a photo of my efforts; single length of chamois. joint along an edge, wheat glue. Chuffed! Secondly, you will notice all the valves are in a poor state. I used a protractor to measure the width at the root, width at the tip and the length (to the nearest 0.5mm) and there are 24 different sizes of valve in total. Does there need to be this many? I am thinking of rationalising the number as I cannot see that an extra mm or two at the glued down end would make any difference. Similarly an extra mm on the width; as long as it doesn't foul the chamber wall will it make any difference? I notice The Concertina Maintenance Manual gives 6 sizes of Wheatstone valve. Four of these sizes cover all my valve dimensions bar one, which sounds a much more sensible number. Any suggestions on where to get new valves and what glue to use? Thank you!

I've got the hide glue that Titebond do. It is also water soluble and removable. I'm assuming it's okay for chamois, but I'm open to suggestions.

Following comments on this forum I've bought the most even thickness chamois I could find from our local car accessory shop in order to replace the gaskets in my Rock Chidley EC. Before starting I wondered if there was any advice I've missed? I've removed the old gasket and discovered it was a single piece. It appears to have been glued to the inside face of the bellows first and then stretched over the top edge. This is how I thought to fit the new gasket. I've seen other posts on here where it has been done in six strips; is there anything for and against for the each method? I'm planning on using Titebond to glue the chamois, possible slightly diluted with water and brushed on thinly. I will glue it around the inside of the frame and let it dry, then spread glue over the top edge and ease the chamois over it. Then trim any overspill and black the edge of the chamois with a Sharpie so that it disappears against the leather of the bellows. The original gasket is fitted over a packer that runs around three sides of the frame (close up photo); I have left this undisturbed and will run the new gasket over it. Thanks!

That looks a lot nicer then my Rock Chidley, @fred v. Mine is a budget model; I think all the posher ones had metal strap buttons. And I can only dream of five fold bellows! I have a question; your finger rest looks like bare brass. Was it originally covered in leather? Some of them seem too have been; mine aren't but look like they may have been once.

Thank you @Duncan Luddite. There are several failed attempts on the garage floor! 😊

Yes, I sweat blood over the fretwork; I wish I'd saved it now. 🤣

My concertina (photo shows end repaired but not yet re-finished) has the same fretwork as C-244. I think yours, @Duncan Luddite, is actually the same as C-230. C-231 has very simple drilled fretwork. C-231, however, is the concertina with the same grey composite strap button as mine. The hole in my action box frame is not damaged and the thread of the screw is a perfect fit for the hole. Additionally the shallow taper and blunt end of the screw suggests it is pre 1880, so I'm of the opinion the weird buttons are original.