Alex West

Many thanks Stephen - I stand corrected Alex West

David The fretwork, reeds and action all look identical to an instrument I have which was identified as a Shakespeare by someone much more knowledgeable than me. I'm not arguing with you, Stephen, but weren't there 2 (related) Shakespeare makers? One I believe identified his instruments and had very fancy engraving with bird motifs. Alex West

Steel or brass reed? Alex West

The McGarrigle Sisters - quite a pretty song Alex West

And the Major General was the "poster boy" for Camp Coffee, referring to the military rather than any other sort of camp Alex West

Buy Dave Elliott's Concertina Maintenance Manual http://www.concertina-repair.org.uk/page7.html. Section 7 shows you exactly how to make an English concertina thumbstrap. All you have to do is add a little extra length to the dimensions given Alex West

I have some. I think I got them from a vintage screw supplier on ebay Alex West

I spoke with Lynda Cornish yesterday. They're changing their supplier for valve leather and are sending me some samples Alex West

Good to hear this Jake. I echo Mike's thoughts and look forward to seeing the finished concertina Alex West

PM sent

At this age, it may also have nickel reeds rather than steel reeds. Nickel reeds tend to be soft (as in quiet) and little can be done to make them louder (I am told). This can affect the value as to modern tastes, they would be similar to brass reeds in performance. Alex West

I got them from a knife making supplier in the US called Jantz Supply. It was a custom order in the size I needed. I have some spare sheets; if you're interested send me a PM. Alex West

PM Sent Alex West

I'd definitely be interested in your Dropbox link, Dana. Enjoy your retirement Alex West

Ah - OK - I didn't see that Alex West

Definitely not in the right position. The reed should sit just above the shoe, like it's neighbours. Be careful, but if it was playing OK before, then the likelihood is that it's just caught there due to a hair, spec of dust or the reed being a little tight in the shoe and getting stuck during playing. In which case if you take the reed pan out, take the reed out and - very gently - push the reed with a small wooden coffee stirrer, it should snap back into place. If it takes more than a very small effort, there's something else going on. If you have a thin feeler gauge, you could run that along the sides between the reed tongue and the shoe just to make sure there's nothing stuck there. Good luck! Alex West

Matt I know some of the anglo concertina players in Edinburgh but there aren't many. I'm SW of Glasgow if that's any use sometime? And I can put you in touch with the Central Scotland Concertina Group if you're interested (mostly English system players) Alex West

I've got enough takers now so I'll get them ordered today. I'll probably have a couple of spare sheets if anyone else is interested Alex

Clive UK price would be around £35 per sheet. The quote (only valid until 30th April 2024) is $315.50 plus around $60 for postage from US plus a bit to cover UK postage at an exchange rate of 1.25. I'm not looking to make a profit on them so if they come in cheaper, I'll pass that on. I imagine that the quote would be revalidated beyond 30th April if we get interest beyond then Alex

I've been searching for German silver or nickel-silver sheet to make new ends for a concertina with wrecked ends. I've been trying to get a specification of 65% Copper, 18% Nickel, 17% Zinc - at least this proportion of Nickel under advice from a respected maker. It's not proven easy to obtain and certainly not in the size and small quantity I need - 2 sheets of around 200mm square at a thickness of 20SWG - .036" or 0.914mm. There are places in the US which have this grade in 300mm squares, but to get 2 ends, I'd have to get 2 sheets and there's be a lot of waste. I found one place which has offered to do a special order of 10 sheets at 200mm square - but I only need 2 (4 at the most). Is there anyone who would need or want the remaining 6 sheets for their project(s)? Contact me and we can discuss pricing, postage and all those things if you're interested Alex West

I use a marble wall tile. Flat enough and the leather doesn't seem to slip too much. I've not noticed the edge dulling, but then I strop the knife fairly regularly And like Jake, I use a saw blade, ground to a shallow profile. I've made a few in curved, straight cut and also in right and left hand angled versions Alex West

PM sent Alex West

Peter, Alan - I understand; my BBb tuba made in 1916 had extra lengths of tubing added at a later date in order to make it in tune at A=440Hz. But I remain confused; a typical concertina at that time would also be in high pitch - so a high pitch trombone in Bb would match a high pitch Bb concertina, whereas a high pitch B concertina would be a semitone sharp? I've checked and I don't think the concertina I have is a Bb/F in high pitch. Unless you're saying that people ordered a B/F# concertina in A=440Hz so that it would play harmoniously with a Bb trombone in A=452Hz? Alex West

Thanks Alan - That would make sense if it was Bb/F - but B/F#? Alex West

I recently acquired an anglo concertina from around 1880 and although the reeds are stamped as if it's in C & G, it seems to play in B and F#, even accounting for the probability of it being in an old pitch somewhat different from A=440Hz. It's not the first time I've had a B/F# and I've been told by very reputable sources that it was very common in the 19th century. Has anyone any idea why B/F# should be so common then? Alex West