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McIsog

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Everything posted by McIsog

  1. Helen, Where did you get that surname? Dan (Cusick)
  2. Clearly the Brits have attacked the Scotch tonight. I'd have some if there were any left - and I prefer Jeffries company to that of Grand Wormwood though I must say that I have seen Jeffries at times bayside where he looked much worse.
  3. Try testing a medium grade cyanoacrylate or Crazy Glue with a spare valve in an 'off' area. It may simply work.
  4. Stephen, You have definitely cornered the market on cool old concertinas. Did you wind up buying that tortoise shell one that went off about a year ago? Dan
  5. I find that statement a bit bullying. Comparing the area of the film planes: 35mm = 24x36mm = 864 sq mm 4x5 = 101.2x127mm = 12903 sq mm 8x10 = 203.2x254mm = 51612 sq mm Exact sizes vary slightly by mat and film frame detail. If you had real cojones you would compare the Hasselblad CF-39MS Digital Back to a specific 4x5 camera, lens and a specific film. Yes the back cost alot of money but so does the processing of 4x5 film and printing if you correctly cost out the time involved. In a nutshell: Liars figure and figures Lie! So here goes - Film vs Digital Proof Theory. Film vs Digital Proof Practice. You can push the results back and forth by varying the film speed of both cameras. Now I'd say we are at least at a draw. Now if people want to continue this battle I'm afraid I'm gonna have to sic my bruiser on them: Cheers, Dan
  6. Marien, M3x, etc. The tool itself can be a work of art - as Stephen proved with the Gandolfi camera snap. And of course if an instrument can be a musician's tool - the concertina obviously qualifies that way. And I agree the product of a Digital camera can acquire images where the old boxen could not. M3x I agree with you there is art in the old analog process that is different from the current digital technology. But I do not think it is absolutely better. Just different. Digital: Dan
  7. Hey m3x - The camera is just a tool. Get over it. Here is a digital snap with character that that wooden box never could have captured. It is not technically perfect but it captures the moment and action and the character. (My 5 year old - Then 4, flying through the canopy of Hacienda Baru in Domical, Costa Rica - Nikon D200) And when it comes to cameras - personally I prefer some Mass to Gravity Cheers, Dan
  8. Hi Neil, You are welcome. That is just My recipe. You can vary it to meet your needs to match existing pads or if you want to keep the same pad design - go for it. Some previous suggestions were use nylon felt rather than wool felt to keep the bugs at bay. Some suggest skipping felt completely to keep the pads fast. Card/felt/card/chamois is fine if the result stack is not too tall... Make sure your punches are sharp enough to cut that sandwich. Cya, Dan
  9. Take one of these bad boys with you on the next outdoor gig!
  10. Hi, Yes. Its easy. Buy some steel punches on ebay. Buy some Chamois, archival grade thickish mattboard and some spray contact adhesive. Optionally buy some 2-4mm felt pad/cloth material. If you are making a complete set you can choose your desired end product pad thickness and work backwards from there. If you use felt, use thinner mat board. Find a 5# mallet and some old hardwood board to hammer against. Cut a strip of about 1/5th of the Chamois making the resulting larger piece match your mat board as best as you can. Spray the mat board with contact adhesive. Spread 4/5ths of the Chamois cloth on the mat. Place the rougher cut side down on the mat - leaving the smoother outer skin side out (makes a better air seal). Cover the set with books for a few hours or days depending on your adhesive's directions making sure all surfaces are hard and flat. Take care not to pool the adhesive. The result will shrink a bit. I suggest waiting a week prior to punching for the lot to cure and shrink. Take the strip of chamois you did not use on the mat and start punching out small circles with one of your smaller punches. These can be glued to the top of your discs as a hinge/glue point to mate the leather circle on your lever arm. Choose a punch that matches your pads and have at it on the matt/chamois sandwich. Punch from the mat board side down into the leather. This helps maintain a good shape to the pad for trapping and sealing air from the moment arm (lever). Have fun. Don't take it too seriously. Buy your materials at a good quality art supply store and ask for acid free archival grade products. Relax, have a homebrew; rinse, lather; repeat! Happy Holidays, Dan
  11. Yes. You will need to retune. This will remove rust: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81756-Naval...e/dp/B0007TQW5G Remember to rinse it off after some time. Though some suggest just leaving it. If it gets in the way of the reed rendering or singing - you may just want to file the edges of the reed till it plays, then working on its tuning. Have fun! Dan
  12. Cocusflute, I find your observations fascinating. Thank you for sharing them with us (and me!). They remind me of discussions of hunts I've had in the past with multi-generational groups where there were some very experienced hunters mixed in with some experienced and aggressive hunters and even a few 'young bucks' - pardon the pun. The experience mix within the group often led to some tensions that usually worked themselves out. Perhaps there is a parallel development cycle in the session scene where (I'm going to apply it to Concertina players since that is the forum) you could label the players stages: Acquisition Stage - Thrill and excitement arrive with the procurement of an instrument new to the player. Much time and energy gets devoted to beginning learning, familiarizing and playing the instrument. Success Stage - Pride and Joy - the musician succeeds in playing a few tunes on the new box. Success breeds some more success and an aggressive attack on learning more tunes develops. Performance Stage - Show it off - Said player develops deep enough repertoire, personal style and accomplishment to perform - even for money. And so he does. Session Stage - Needing more - Maturing player starts to seek that which makes them happy. A good gig! Not necessarily for money. Seeking rather coherence and depth in the act of performing or playing. And sharing the experiences that go along with that. Statesman (or Instructor) Stage - The point at which enough experience has been gleaned from a life of learning, developing, playing, performing and seeking quality in the experience that the player recognizes they enjoy the companionship the quality session and desire to share experiences, knowledge and expertise with those around them in the various stages that precede this one. Now I am clearly ripping this off from Sociological studies of multi generational groups of hunters in the upper midwest (Wisconsin, Minnesota and Michigan) of the US. But I think the developmental model could apply given the time spanned by the participants and the complexity of the tasks at hand. One of the features of relationships between members of the different stages is Stress. More importantly other features of these relationships include: mentoring, teaching, guiding. Pleasure from exposure to experts or even being noticed, encouraged or picked up and dusted off after a crash. Perhaps even recognition of common styles and past (rookie) mistakes made. From what you have said I would guess you are in the latter stages of a model such as this. Given that - try to focus on what you like. Help us rookies whenever you can and don't let those 'Young Bucks' get under your skin. i really appreciate your comments and insights. i've been to a few of those pubs you mention and experienced the ITM in its different forms and it does help to have the session types clarified so succinctly! Dan
  13. Bravo!! Well done. Thank you for sharing that with us. Dan
  14. Skip the felt layer. Just use acid free poster board or framing mat material and lay up some thin chamois. Then punch to the desired diameter. This may result in a thinner pad but you can bend the arms and reset the button height (which will need doing anyway). You can glue up smaller circles of leather to re glue your arms to.
  15. Post a picture of when you get a chance. There are dozens of concertina 'pickers' lurking here. They will remember it if they see it.
  16. I have a Tedrow Zephyr. And despite his age it is really an agile, beautiful, great sounding and loud instrument. Highly recommended. Dan
  17. Cool looking box. I bet it sounds great! Do all the reeds sound ok?
  18. Wow. Hey will you sell me a working Jeffries C/G 30 button? I only want 1 8-) And. I'm not really picky. A Wheatstone or Dipper would do too! But which is your favorite? Dan
  19. don't mistake tho difficulty involved. you must make a good jig, requiring more advanced wood working skills. then work with high quality leather=expensive. ability to sharpen a straight razor to cut hair, or do you feel you can purchase the skivver for over 300 usd? measure and remeasure, only to find out finally that it is wrong and you have to make it all over again... the good makers have all been through this. bet on it. have some one do it or if you feel up to the lesser challenge, buy the kit.. If you look at Tedrow's method you could probably improvise on the skiver and the Jig. The hardest tool to have at your disposal I think would be the band saw.
  20. Build your own!!! Bob Tedrow posted a method on his web page - Here dan
  21. Bob! Stop playing with Photoshop and get back to work.
  22. This is a good suggestion. 6 disks is alot to buy at once. Synopsis: FCLAR01 - The Russell Family of Doolin, Co Clare - 26 Tracks about 50 minutes FCLAR02 - Clare Concertinas - Bernard O'Sullivan & Tommy McMahon - 17 Tracks about 42 minutes FCLAR03 - The Flowing Tide - Chris Droney - 21 Tracks about 58 minutes FCLAR04 - John Kelly - Irish Traditional Concertina & Fiddle Music - 21 Tracks, 44 minutes FCLAR05 - Tommy McMahon & Bernard O'Sullivan - Irish Traditional Concertina Music of Co Clare - 16 Tracks, 40 minutes FCLAR06 - Irish Traditional Concertina Styles - Twelve great players from the 1970s - 22 Tracks, 42 minutes I liked the first and last disks best. First for its fun, the singing and stories. I wished I was there. The last for the variety and depth of the 'tina playing. But I would not return any. Cheers, Dan
  23. Just wondering... I had the pleasure of picking up a Jeffries 44 button Bb/F. (46 Buttons including dead key and air button.) Is this a 'standard' Bb/F layout? I have not yet marked up the octaves. And were these instruments originally in this key or were they 'created' from duets? I could not find any other Bb/F charts > 30 keys. Fantastic sound BTW - thx, Dan Edit note - updated the chart with the octaves and corrected some typos on the notes/button - I realize this is not a 'standard' concertina in any way - I was just wondering about the layout - did it look OK or did anyone notice any customizations - err differences from theirs perhaps?
  24. Hey Ed, Can you just cancel the auction early and sell it to me at the current price? Life would be so much simpler that way! Cheers, Dan
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