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Everything posted by SteveS

  1. Thanks Bill I'm tempted to get a set and make myself a couple of reed pans and give them a try in an EC.
  2. I'm intrigued by these reeds. Bill, or anyone else here, do you have any practical experience with these reeds? How do they sound, especially compared to traditional concertina reeds? Do they have a more accordion sound to them perhaps?
  3. Many years ago, before I started playing mostly Nordic music, I played in bands for English folk and then Scottish ceilidh dance. As I recall we'd worked out in advance the sets of tunes to be played with popular dances - we had sufficient sets and variations of tunes to make up a sufficient number of sets to ensure we didn't repeat a set during the course of an evening. I recall we had something like 30 sets, and a maximum of around 90-100 tunes to be played during the course of an evening. We could then select a set to play according to the dance being called (or in the case of Scottish ceilidh dance a caller wasn't usually present so the band announced the dances, the dancers usually being required to know the dances). We worked with callers that would indicate the structure of the tunes to be played for a specific dance, eg 3 tunes of AABB, or 32 bar jigs, in which case the band leader would suggest to the band the set to be played. This selection was always the responsibility of the band leader. Having a knowledge of the figure structure of the dances is useful for the band in helping the selection of the set to be played for the dance - that is, some jigs/reels may not be suitable for some dances. [Recently I've been enjoying the English music sessions I've been going to, and am starting to think about playing the English repertoire again - I must dig out my old tune books since I can remember only a small number of the tunes I used to play having played mostly Nordic music for the last 25+ years!!]
  4. Never use a Dremel - there is little control over the cutting - one slip and the reed may be irreparably damaged - and replacing a reed will cost $$$ Personally I use Swiss-made Vallorbe half-round files of various cuts, depending on the degree of tuning required. I use the round part of the file to tune the reed closest to the clamp, and the flat part of the file to tune the tip. I will always finish tuning a reed using the finest cut file. Vallorbe files are expensive, but are of high quality and will last a lifetime.
  5. This is a good point you make, Alex. I tend to do servicing in this this order: renew pads (and any springs), renew valves, adjust action set, tune reeds
  6. Here's another polska - Säbb Johns Polska from Vikarbyn, Rättvik, Dalarna. I heard this tune played by a super fiddler for a dance near Rättvik this summer past and knew immediately that I wanted to learn it.
  7. I think we may see it again soon on a dealer's website.
  8. Plus buyers premium at 18% plus VAT. Sold to a telephone bidder.
  9. I have a New Model TT on the bench that has the usual Lachenal cartouches that are fitted flush with the surface of the ends. Previously I've removed the cartouches prior to French polishing. To refit the cartouches has then required some cleaning and careful removal of excess shellac from the indented spaces before refitting the cartouches. Is there a better way to finish the ends without recourse to removal of the cartouches? How might I clean up the excess polish in this case? All tips appreciated.
  10. Yup seen that too. I currently have a 'tina in my resto pile where several springs have been switched for safety pins - inevitably the pivot posts have backed out of their slots. I've disconnected the springs while the instrument awaits restoration.
  11. Hej Mikael I'll be in Stockholm that weekend too (29 Nov - 4 Dec). Would be good to meet up. There's an English music session on Sunday 1 Dec and Swedish music session on Tuesday 3 Dec - both at Sjaette Tunnan in Gamla Stan. Irish session at Wikstroems Pub in Gamla Stan on Monday 2 Dec. I'll have my concertina with me. Hope to see you then. mvh Steve
  12. I've been thinking for the last few years about making a bass 'tina from harmonium reeds.
  13. My avatar TT Aeola has a super tone - ideal for singing, hence the desire to tune to 1/5 comma. I used to use it for playing for dancing, but that really was too much for the reeds, so I now use a TT Aeola which has steel reeds.
  14. Thanks Geoff - very useful. I'm thinking to tune the Aeola in my avatar to 1/5 comma (this 'tina has non-ferrous reeds).
  15. Have you approached any of the makers? eg. Steve Dickinson (Wheatstone), Wim Wakker (Wakker concertinas), Colin Dipper.
  16. I suggest not using Pozidrive screws - speaking as a restorer, they often round off rendering them impossible to remove with out having to drill them out - and they require access to a proper Pozidrive screwdriver. It also means carrying at least 2 screwdrivers in a repair kit. Always use slotted head screws - as used traditionally by makers - even modern makers use slotted head screws and bolts. I doubt Lachenal would have used Pozidrive screws even if he had had access to them.
  17. Hi Wolf Here's a picture of my 56-key New Model baritone
  18. Thanks Jim - a good idea - I may just print out the ledger page and keep in the bottom of my 'tina case.
  19. I usually carry a small toolkit with a screwdriver - I usually make sure that its in my checked-in bag ?
  20. I'm travelling to Seattle, and then Vancouver, in about 12 days time. I'm going to meet up with Scandi dancers and musicians in Seattle and Vancouver. I'd thought to take my Aeola TT. With thoughts of CITES, should I be concerned about the import of my 'tina into US and Canada? The 'tina has ebonised ends, probably of pear wood veneer - but will this cause any consternation at customs? What experiences have other people had at US/Canadian border controls? Thanks.
  21. I use a tuning table for accordion reeds, and a tuning bellows for concertina reeds. It's possible to learn tuning, and with care good results can be achieved. But always practice initially on reeds from a scrap instrument
  22. Thanks Paul - this is a really useful resource.
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