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Everything posted by d.elliott

  1. Rod, that is what I think of as an aperture or window, some instruments had a piece of rod bent into a 'U' shape, inverted then both legs cut sharp. These are then pushed/ hammered? into the action board for the lever arms to hook under.
  2. I have never tried to extend arms as you suggest, It sounds like you have the ferrous type of arms rather than the more common brass, that will make soldering even more problematical. I would use salvaged brass arms as I have many times before. Which type of pivot have you got, staple or aperture? and what state are they in? one concern might be that the wearing portion of the pivot post's inner face may be damaged and that the new or reclaimed arm my not be held true and thus be unstable. This in turn can give problems with the pads.
  3. 1mm drill bit is a bit large and a bit aggressive, I made a 'prong' out of a fine watch maker's screwdriver which is dressed to about 0.75mm. The watchmaker's screwdriver has the benefit of a rotating head and a pad to apply pressure through. Trying to get the old stub of the broken string out can do more harm than goog, I just leave it and put a new hole in the action plate beside the old one. Dave
  4. I've never seen anything like that. Are the key's glass? this instrument seems to have been seriously messed about with, a shame because it must have been out of the top draw. I agree that it looks like a drone lock of some sort, but the 'bolt' might be a 'handle'. Dave
  5. photographs of the chamber side of the reedpan near the stampings might help, also of the stampings on the inner face of the bellows frame Dave
  6. Howard, nice tone! I find my playing the baritone equally frequent as playing my trebles. The single action seems to be more expressive, as well as lighter on the thumbs.
  7. I have played baritone for some years now, and have restored quite a few, these comments relate to 'true' baritones,that is the transposed down by one octave. There are two broad classifications of instrument, double action, and single action. Double action, are built like the trebles and have reeds on both sides of the reedpan. they rely on valves to optimise and direct air flow on changes of bellows direction. Single action instruments have no reed pan valves as they only play as bellows are compressed,. Reeds are fitted on to the inner face of the reedpan only. They are fitted with 'gulper' flap valves which allow you to refill the bellows at the end of musical phrases, a bit like refilling the lungs by snatching air when you sing. Double action instruments are heavier (twice as much metalwork) and slower in response on the lower end of their compass due to the size of their leather valves. Skilled repairers will know about valve springs and valve restrains. to try and address this. Of the double action instruments there are two styles of reed pan: - Fully radial, just like the treble pan. Unfortunately the chambers for the lower notes do not permit reeds a big as might be ideal. So to get the lower notes into such relatively small chambers the reeds are usually made shorter, with thinner tongue bodies and then they are weighted, making them easier to sound flat when playing at higher pressures. - The there is the 'band baritone' where the reed pans are semi radial, and the reeds for the lower octave and a bit are set into parallel chambers with full sized and powerful reeds. The valves in these parallel chambers tend to be heavy and valve springs are really needed. The main downside is that there can be a tonal shift as you move up the scale and from parallel chambered reeds to radial chambered reeds. Often these instruments can have 42 keys rather than the radial 48 keys. My own baritone for the last ten years or so, was a Lachenal ebony ended new model band baritone, ideal for ensemble, band and a joy to play, however I have been looking out for a chance to upgrade to a single action instrument, mainly to reduce weight, avoid any valve issues and it's more immediate response time. For my money a single action big reed instrument beats a double action instrument hands down. The double action band baritone is better than the radial pan baritone for accompaniment and ensemble work, but the radial pan baritone has a more consistent tonality has long as the reeds are not forced. The Geordies are good instruments, light and easy to play, but on two I have played I found that the lower reeds, could 'bend' their pitch if played loudly. For voice accompaniment fine but for rhythmic play, Oom Pah Pah, and 'fff' perhaps a bit suspect. It probably needs the lower notes playing in chords under these circumstances. I hope this rambling helps. Dave
  8. Remember that any way or similar treatment may make it difficult to get a future repair to work, it may well cause glues not to take to the old leather . Alex also talks about a low solvent shoe polish, this is also important to prevent existing glued joints from being effected. From what Notemaker says, it is not a colour problem, but a loss of leather thickness. The only answer is to over -wrap the bellows frames, and if the issues is apparent on the bellows folds, then to over bind each of the bellows folds. Dave
  9. Clock Spring steel was originally used, my Aeola has it's reeds tempered to straw, but they are very hard to file/tune. I think I recall Geoff Crabb saying that Crabb bought spring steel on the reel
  10. I do exactly the same, either seal off with glue or plugthe hole. Dave
  11. Tiposx, I usually find that bolts shear level with the captive plate nut, Irrespective of Lachenal or Wheatstone, it is quicker to split the chamois, and remove the nut, making good the bellows frame wall is straight forward, and there is less chance of spoiling the bellows leather end wrap. Dave
  12. true Bill, I seem to remember that M2.5 has a slightly courser thread, not sure Dave
  13. One common work around, particularly if the plate nuts have stripped and a replacement 'good' thread will not engage any more. 6BA set screws, and tap the nut out in situ. You usually end up changing the full set both ends, for cosmetic reasons. You can try and get a replacement bolt with it's nut complete, and then modify the bellows frame to suit, hopefully without spoiling the leather work. I have done both, the benefit of the 6BA is that it is inherently stronger, and you can have commercially available setscrews or bolts, remember to specify a fillister head, not a standard cap head.
  14. No experience of a claim, thank goodness, however I take pains to reduce the probability of cosmetic damage, about 8 yrs ago I started getting bespoke trywall shipping cartons made. think that in my case the damage would be nil or catastrophic.So far, I have only needed to used them within the UK, with defined delivery windows and signature. DPD communicate with the recipient about when to expect delivery and give them options for re-schedule. I had not been bothered about the 14 days issue, but if shipping to very distant shores, I would look into this further. Typically shipping a £3k instrument by DPD the insurance has been less than £5 (in Euros) Dave
  15. I Have modified instruments to help people with large hands, lengthening the palm rests a little, raising their height and moving them back a bit away from the buttons. By combing all three actions it did not take too much change in any one axis to make a difference.
  16. like the air button, probably tunes it to the post war BBC Light Programme
  17. I have found it cheaper more practical to split shipping and insurance. The shipping agents seem to have exorbitant rates. There is a French company Secursus for insurance and DPD as the most reliable. Using this combination I have had door to door, tracking, on-time delivery and the comfort of cover from a specialist shipping insurer. Dave
  18. I can remember being in a small playing group, and John Dixon used to join us occasionally. I also played alongside Archie Watson, the last surviving member of the Mexborough concertina band. He had been a bugler in the first world war, and joined the band to join his brother and uncle straight on demobbing. Archie had a wonder band playing style.
  19. Just finished re-jigging all the reed positions, valving, valve springs and tuning of a Lachenal double action English bass concertina ('c' bass), now servicing a Wheatstone 48k English treble. Playing wise just some Simon & Garfunkle Stuff. Dave
  20. I have a Wakker bass in for service, solidly made, heavy, all Wakker's own made instruments are well crafted and the better instruments use traditional reeds for the authentic sound. The bass is a bit ploddy and not as responsive as the owner would like, but other Wakkers have been reasonable. Dave
  21. Arti, Absolutely, not a good idea!, save it for your walking boots.
  22. I Guess that the answer is basically you don't. the oils and carrier media soak into the leather, under the glued joints and weaken the bellows assembly. it taints decorative papers as well. The waxy residue attracts dust and grime makings matters worse. The lanolin you used could well have started the problem. The beeswax and lanolin will make repair very difficult as glues will not like to stick to the contaminated surface. Just keep bellows clean and frequently articulated, preferably by playing.
  23. Clive, if it is your concertina, your risk, If you are advising others then you really need to be super sure. All you can do is relate your own experiences. D
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