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d.elliott

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Everything posted by d.elliott

  1. Thanks everyone, my problem resulted in a mis-remembering of the name, it s Tidder, not Tedder, which is a hay turning device used in agriculture! Dave
  2. I remember that, some tears ago, a thread which identified Tedder concertinas, and a bit about Tedder the manufacturer. I have searched for information on the forums, but have come up with 0 results. Have these been taken down now? thanks Dave
  3. same here Jim. long, long queues for both the single action G Bass, and the single action baritone
  4. Richard, it would be nice to be able to see through our finger tips, and have finger tips that can also read. What I offered was a statement based upon experience. perhaps the player had not realised the risk?
  5. sorry mate, not for sale at any price, yet. However, I would add 'steel reeds to my buying specification.
  6. googe Adhesive labels onto the polish will damage it and reduce the instrument's value/ saleability
  7. I would ask you to remember that leatherwork for shoes and gloves use stitching, Bellows use glues, starch / animal glues rather than modern adhesives. Any form of softener relies on a carrier medium to pull a restorative, wax or whatever, into the leather and must to some extent saturate the leather. This has two effects, it weakens the existing glued joints, and it makes it very difficult for any future repairs to 'stick'. Think of this as a gentle Government Health Warning, as with tobacco products and lungs, leather softeners may damage bellows. Sorry, if the leather has 'Gone Home' as they say round here, then it needs replacement. Bellows are a consumable item, when life expired then discard. I have had a set of 8 fold bellows made for my 2.75 ins A/F, 12 key Wheatstone English miniature. Why? The leather had gone home. Dave
  8. Paul, it's the Lachenal Art Deco style paper, I started to do the artwork for printing plates, but there was so few of them that I never bothered to finish it. there would not have been the demand to make the exercise wash it's face.
  9. I have tried many fonts, most of those above, but 'Special Elite in Bold' is the closest I have found. special elite.tiffspecial elite.tiff
  10. The reeds tune up fairly easily, although The reed blocks are held in place with a pair of mini (simple) finger clamps. In each case I have ended up having to ream out the holes in the clamps, to be able to remove and fit the clamps and thus the reed blocks, to replace valves and make tuning adjustments. At least they are not waxed into place! Dave
  11. I have yet another Maiyfair to estimate, I have checked the tuning and found the same discrepency, that makes at least four so far.
  12. Hi Joachim, I am in the middle of servicing a fleet of Mayfair English System instruments for a concertina teacher, I have done several now, and they are excellent instruments, without exception. One thing I have noticed is that their are, without fail, tuned sharp, and that that tuning is variable so say an average of 15 cents, +/- 5 cents. If you are playing for your own amusement, or solo, or perhaps learning then not too much issue. However if you are to play with others then this might to be a problem to you, or others. You might wish to check your tuning. I suspect that reeds were bought 'pre-tuned' and just fitted, but that is just a guess. Dave
  13. The first long series reeds belonged to Lachenal and their Edeophone design, Wheatstone then brought out their Aeola, first the six sided pinhole Aeola, later the octagonal range that became their Aeola standard.
  14. Simon, that is a bleach, not a hand sanitiser, OK for use against bacteria, not viruses. Not good on skin anyway!, use rubber gloves for protection against bleaches. I suppose that after the bleach has dissolved the skin and flesh, there may be damage from the residual bone drumming on the action box cover? 😶
  15. Ah, you are possibly right. What's the collective noun for a group of Alexes? I know it's a Rave of Daves.
  16. My Bass is a 35 key instrument, going up to the 'C' LH side, but not the 'C#'. the F1 is as shown by Steve
  17. I suspect that you will be looking on the accordion reed market or commissioning a set from one of the traditional reed capable manufacturers, you might talk to Alex West. What range are you looking for? many Bass instruments have short key boards, say up to the 'C' LH Side. Single action would be half the cost and make a lighter and more responsive instrument.
  18. All English Thumb straps should be made with padding, they are, in essence, a flattened leather tube assembled around an angle bracket with a strip of linen running through to stop things from stretching. the angle bracket has an additional piece of felt along the base, up the bracket and around the arc of the thumb. I use 2mm felt compressing to 1.5mm thick. Usually you send your old straps so the repairer can use the existing metal work and match lengths etc. This is also good because different manufacturers use different screw hole lay-outs,. Wheatstone and Lachenal are very different, and Lachenal used different layouts between standard 'tinas and Edeophones. Dave
  19. Little John, I agree that you are looking at an unequal temperament scale. However the bell tuning comparison with respect to free reeds is probably a bit misleading, one being a pulse, decaying, the other being a continuous tone emission. On continuous notes, most players can pick out a 10 cent error, quite a few 5 cents. There was a debate on this forum about tuning tolerances some years ago. Whilst some players were of the opinion that with modern tuning meters, Zero Error through out the instrument from any note's nominal value was the only acceptable deviation. Obviously poppycock. Based upon reading audiological information, I chose to tune to +/- 1.5 cents from nominal, although this cannot always be achieved, it usually can. You need a meter that displays error in tenths of a cent, thus resolving to not more than 0,02 of a cent. I find that analogue meters or graphic analogue displays are too imprecise.
  20. Some time ago I had some SS caps made to be bonded in place, they work well but they are the wrong sort silver to look at. It will be interesting to see what the cost will be. Dave
  21. Having listened to Bernard's video clip again, it did not seem any lower than my own 'G' Bass concertina. I just got my G Bass out and put up against my main tuning meter, and to my surprise my Bass goes down around 49 Hz on its low G, which is read at 'G1' the down tuned low 'G#' to F Nat is 43.7Hz or 'F1'. I need to eat my Hat. Further reading clearly stated the Octave C0 is call 'Sub-Contra', 'C1' Octave is called 'Contra'. So the 'G' Bass must be what is thought of as a 'Contra Bass'. The 'C Bass' starts at C2 which is above the contra octave. The naming convention is as below: Octave Names C0 - B0: sub-contra octave (A0 is the lowest pitch on a full piano) C1 - B1: contra octave C2 - B2: great octave C3 - B3: small octave C4 - B4: one-line octave, or 2nd small octave (contains both middle C and A440) C5 - B5: two-line octave, or 3rd small octave C6 - B6: three-line octave, or 4th small octave C7 - B7: four-line octave, or 5th small octave C8 - B8: five-line octave, or 6th small octave Alex is right, (as usual) It is the baritone that goes down to the bottom of the bass clef: G2. not the Bass, which goes down one octave lower I guess the answer to the original question is that any regular G Bass will do, and if you want F1, then have the low G# tuned down to F1, it is easy to do by weighting the tip a bit more. My senior, senior moment apologies to all.
  22. Hello Robin, Are these bone buttons with metal caps? do you have a picture of a complete button assembly, or is that what we are seeing on the lower key? What is the diameter of the key body?
  23. I have two single action instruments of my own and have restored several more. The single action instrument plays on push and 'breaths' air on the pull. The air intake can be one of three types, singularly or in combination. I know the air intake valves built in the bellows as 'gills' often fitted in the lower sides of the folds. The internal port with the large flap valve on the inner face of the reed board is known as a Gulper valve. The three types are Gills bellows folds only Gills in the bellows frame not the bellows folds Gulper valves on one or both ends. The benefit of the Gulper is that it draws a lot of air immediately but finding space to fit one is often problematical The gills in the bellows frame work well and are immediate on air intake. Gills in the bellows folds can be a problem when the bellows are played to a point where they fairly closed, this is because there is not enough room within the compressed folds for the gill valves to open fully. This means that snatching a rapid breath of air is not so easy. This was the issue on my own G Bass so I had to find space and fit gulper valves in addition to the gills. This internal modification has made a terrific difference to playability. If I were designing or building from scratch I would use gills in the bellows frame, or gulper valves, or a combination. Dave
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