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Posts posted by Fanie

  1. Ok, I finally fixed the old 55 button bandoneon and it is playing again.

    I replaced a few gussets and patched some leaks in the bellows. 

    I made 16 buttons (thanks to instructions from Harry Geuns in Belgium)

    I replaced one broken reed tongue (Harry sent me a new one.)

    Then I replaced the leather pads on the left side (but it is still leaking some air on the left).

    What an interesting instrument: It is basically an Anglo with rows of chords in G, A and E, and then a lot of other accidentals.

  2. On 5/26/2019 at 6:32 AM, caj said:



    It might be easier to simply machine them from Delrin.  I had to replace the buttons on my concertina (I bought it in a condition where many of the metal buttons were worn down significantly.)  What I did was buy Delrin rods from McMaster-Carr, and mill them to shape with a Dremel tool.


    To make the bottom peg of the button, I discovered a neat Dremel trick.  I set a Dremel tool in that dinky Dremel drill press that they sell, with a fat cylindrical grinding bit close to the drill press platform (a little less than one rod diameter away).  Then I'd take a few inches of Delrin rod, hold it firmly to the platform with both hands at the ends, and roll it firmly so that the middle of it rolls into/under the grinding bit.  By rolling it in, this mills the middle to a skinnier diameter, and I then cut it in the middle to produce two button blanks.


    It took surprisingly little time to make a full set of replacement buttons this way, machined with great uniformity despite my grad student budget and my cheapo tools.


    Can you please show a picture or video how you do it?


  3. So, I have been thinking what finish to put on the veneer when I am done. I have done a few wallnut gun stocks with a "London oil finish", using boiled linseed oil. It takes a long time to do- each very thin layer of oil must get dry before it is rubbed and a new layer applied. The old recipe went: once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month......

    What do you guys think?

  4. On 7/22/2022 at 12:14 PM, alex_holden said:

    I recommend not using any glue that has water in it for veneering the end boards. If you do there's a high risk of them warping when the glue dries. Polyurethane glue, contact adhesive, or epoxy resin are some examples of glue that don't contain water.

    Unfortunately I could not find Polyurethane glue, contact adhesive, or epoxy resin in my small town, so my only option was to use PVA wood glue. I apply the glue and then clamp it for 24 hours to try and avoid warping. So far it went well.

    I also don't have brad point bit drills, so I made a chisel with a round side out of a 8mm steel bolt to cut the holes in the veneer and then finished the holes off with a dremel.

    Some pictures of my progress:







    • Like 2
  5. Thank you Simon, I have found veneer. The company gives away free A4 size samples and they sent me enough to do ten concertinas.

    Now, I have never worked with veneer. Can anybody please give some instructions how to do it the correct way? How do I get the holes for the buttons and sound holes? Should I first mark the holes with a pencil and then punch it out, and then glue the sheet to the ends, and when it is dry, finish it off with a dremel? Will PVA glue be ok?

    Thank you for your help

  6. I just received a very old, pre Chinese, Hohner International (Bastari) D20/40/8. It plays very nice and the sound is very good.

    It has a red Mother of toilet seat finish, which is pealing off. Some places the pearloid cover is very buckled and I do not think it can be glued back. Can anybody please advise how I can repair it? Should I rather remove all the pearloid plastic and clean and sand the wood and then stain and varnish the wood?

    Any help will be appreciated.

    Thank you.

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